Paraguay Day 26; Arroyos y Esteros & Asuncion

   We had a very enjoyable morning birding the grasslands near the town of Arroyos y Esteros. The start was nice and early, so we had chance to drive to the Juan de Mena road just in time for first light. As expected the morning acitivity was very good, but within a few hours the day had gotten warm and the acitivty had died down. In those few hours we managed to find almost all of our main targets!

  It started a little slowly, but within half an hour I managed to find the most important species, the Strange-tailed Tyrant, with a male performing in the road, even sitting on the tarmac. Sadly it was not especially approachable, and that proved to be the case of the other 11 individuals that we found during the morning, with only a female showing nicely for photos.

   In addition, we had a very nice performance from at least four Crested Doraditos, including a single male. Another Ibera Seedeater put in an appearance, but it did not show especially well. Additionally, we saw Scarlet-headed Blackbird, Unicolored Blackbird, a late Spectacled Tyrant and a host of other nice wetland birds. It was extremely enjoyable.

  Once it got hot, we made a short stop at the area I had birded on the first day, where we found Tawny-bellied Seedeater again, as well as another Ibera Seedeater, but the day was already getting hot and so we headed back to Asuncion.

  Once in Asuncion we sorted out some logistics, and spent the afternoon get ourselves sorted. Sadly we did have to pay a parking fine after our car was clamped for apparently parking in the wrong location, but otherwise all went smoothly. One more day to go in Paraguay! 

Paraguay Day 25; PRO COSARA, Moises Bertoni & Arroyos y Esteros

   For our final morning at PRO COSARA we returned to the short stretch of road through the forest that we had visited the previous morning, to do a short walk before we departed. This turned into a very productive decision, with a few more species seen and activity quite good after the previous days storm. 

  We started with brief but acceptable views of an Atlantic Black-throated Trogon, which flew across the road before being coaxed back. The highlight species of the morning was a female Purple-crowned Plovercrest, but it was brief and always on the move, hardly the encounter we were looking for. Finally we added Buff-browed Foliage-Gleaner to our trip lists, although it took some effort to find the bird as it sat still.

  After this we departed, at around 09:30. We were cautious about the state of the road due to the previous days rainfall, but we managed to drive the 10 kilometres of dirt road back to tarmac without too much issue. However, the 10 kilometres to our midday destination, the grasslands of Moises Bertoni was a different story. This road was in a shocking state and it was quite scary at times that we might get stuck, compounded on the return journey by rainfall. But we managed it without too many issues. 

  The birding at Moises Bertoni was not bad, but in the end we missed our main target the Cock-tailed Tyrant, although we were able to find the other main target with Ochre-breasted Pipit. Sadly our views were limited to a single flyover and a distant displaying individual, despite hearing song frequently. The best of the rest was a nice but distant Sharp-tailed Grass-Tyrant.

  And with that we completed the rest of the day driving, finishing in the small town of Arroyos y Esteros close to Asuncion, from where we would be birding in the morning. 

Paraguay Day 24; PRO COSARA

   With another full day at PRO COSARA we hoped to rack up a good species total and improve our overall trip list with a few good speices. For the first part of the morning Adolpho, the Paraguayan birder remained with us, before he left at around 08:30 when the sky started to look suspiciously dark and he was afraid his bike might not make the road. Before he left he showed us where to find the Blackish Rail at the site, but sadly they would not come out of the reeds despite calling seemingly very close.

  We continued birding and decided to visit the short stretch of road that passes through the forest to the east of the Estancia, where we had found the previous evenings owls. Despite the windy weather we managed a few good species, including Olive Spinetail which was a very good target to find and Spixs Spinetail which was my 400^th species in Paraguay. A flyover Rufous-thighed Hawk was another nice addition to our trip.

  After birding there we returned to the estancia and spent the rest of the morning birding the short trail in the forest just to the south of the Estancia. This was a lively forest and we added Plain-winged Woodcreeper to our Paraguayan lists, but most other species were common. There was an enjoyable performance from a Ferruginous Pygmy Owl and a small group of Hooded Capuchins passed by.

  In the afternoon we decided to walk the medium length trail but about halfway through it became clear that the weather was about to turn in some style. Despite rushing back we only just made it before the heavens well and truly opened. It knocked out the power, and WiFi, leaving us in the dark with little to do but try smash the mosquitos also taking refuge here. It goes without saying that thanks to this storm, it was an early night! 

Paraguay Day 23; Kanguery & PRO COSARA

   We had planned to spend two nights at Kanguery field station, but the weather promised to turn later in the day, and the mosquito conditions were almost unbearable at times, plus there was no sign of our elusive remaining target species, so we decided to leave early afternoon.

  During the morning we had an hour checking the grassland areas in the hope that we might encounter one of the grassland birds that we were missing but sadly not. A Grass Wren was the best of it. Fortunately when we returned at the end of the morning we added Sharp-tailed Grass-Tyrant and Long-tailed Reed Finch to our achieved target total from the site. 

  In between we headed into the forest trails adjacent to the camp. The mosquitos in here were almost unbearable and the birding was not especially lively. The best I managed in three hours was a nice male Chestnut-headed Tanager, a single Plain Xenops and a pair of Blue Manakin. Otherwise it was just wandering the trails to try located rarer species without success.

  In the afternoon we returned to PRO COSARA for the afternoon to continue birding there. The forests were quiet during the afternoon, with only a long overdue Gilded Sapphire added to our lists. There was a Paraguay birder also staying at the Estancia, Adolpho, and he gave us some good information about where to locate our remaining target species. 

Paraguay Day 22; PRO COSARA & Kanguery

   We spent the morning birding around the PRO COSARA reserve, this time completing the long trail in rather sunny as opposed to yesterdays overcast conditions. This meant good acitivty early on but slower in the later sections of our walk. We still enjoyed the trail however, and we made it back to the Estancia just after midday.

  The trail was quite lively with a similar assortment of species to the previous day. We saw Spot-backed Antshrike which we had only heard the previous day, but sadly added Sharpbill to our list of heard only birds. The highlight of the morning was a pair of Blackish Blue Seedeaters, which were a new species for me and one that I had greatly hoped to encounter in this reserve. The male especially was extremely showy, and I got fantastic views of him as he moved around the bamboo. Other good birds that were new included Red-breasted Toucan briefly flying over and a showy pair of Rufous Gnateaters. 

  After lunch at the Estancia we headed off on the drive to Kanguery Biological Station in another area of the National Park. Here it is more grassy and there are a few different species to search for. Because of the previous rains we were a bit nervous about this drive, but in the end it took just under two hours to complete although we had to spend some time clearing vegetation out of the road.

  Once at the field station, once the formalities had been completed, we set off out birding. A team of researchers were also staying at the station, studying the Saffron-cowled Blackbird, so they took us out to the area where they were catching them. Here this rare species was plentiful and we had great views. In the end we decided not to stay and watch the ringing, but to continue exploring which was very successful with Lesser Grass Finch and both Dark-throated and Rufous-rumped Seedeater all seen. However it was not all straightforward, as I lost my speaker whilst walking through the grass.

  The researchers finished their work at 18:00 so guided us around the grasslands a little bit, first to a small pool where there were three Masked Ducks swimming, including two males. After nightfall we tried to find Giant Snipe in an area where we were taken to, and although there was no sign of the snipe, we had nice flyby views of a female Sickle-winged Nightjar. Sadly we never saw it landed and the mosquitos here were somewhat overwhelming, so we soon beat a retreat, returning to camp to recover and relax. 

Paraguay Day 21; PRO COSARA

  Our first day at the PRO COSARA reserve was a tense one, as we waited to see if the rain from the previous day would linger into today and alter not just our birding, but our wider itinerary. It was overwhelming with joy to see not a single drop of rain all day, allowing us to continue to bird without fear and live in hope that we might yet be able to complete our itinerary as it was originally planned!

  There are a few options for trains at PRO COSARA, but we started with the main seven kilometre trail hoping that it would deliver the Atlantic Forest performance that we had missed at Mbaracayu. And on that front it did not disappoint, with ample birds recorded throughout the morning. Many species were heard only, but we still were able to add a good number to our overall trip list.

  The only downside was a Variegated Antpitta, calling deep inside a bamboo thicket. We spent about 40 minutes trying to work out a way to see the bird, but never managed to set eyes on it despite being close. Not a complete loss as we saw Grey-bellied Spinetail and Dusky-tailed Antbird at the same location but still frustrating. Along the trail itself before we needed to go off-piste, we had a few Chestnut-headed Tanagers, a species I have only seen once before, some nice Drab Pygmy-Tyrants and White-rimmed Warblers and just overall enjoyable birding.

  In the afternoon, after a midday lunch and a half hour nap, we set off again this time trying another trail around the lake in the middle of the forest. This was obviously quieter being an afternoon, but we finally saw a Tufted Antshrike, as well as adding White-spotted Woodpecker to our lists. The Antpitta pain was not over, as we heard a distant Speckle-breasted Antpitta in another bamboo area, but this one was too deep to really try to find.

  A short loop trail completed our days birding, but the only thing we really added here was a family party of Rusty-margined Guans. On the walk back we heard another Pavonine Cuckoo, but it never came out and since the access was not good we did not try especially hard. A brilliant way to start out birding at the San Rafael National Park. 

Paraguay Day 20; Mbaracayu, Abai & PRO COSARA

   With most of the forest off limites due to the guerilla presence, our capacity for exploration at Mbaracayu was seriously limited to the extent that we decided to cut short our stay by a day and instead to another, hopefully more productive, Atlantic Forest location. This meant that we had this final morning to try track down our outstanding species, a list which was not offensively long but that did contain the most important target; the Helmeted Woodpecker.

  We started our morning by walking the entrance road, which was quite productive and we managed to avenge yesterdays Saffron Toucanet shenangians with a nice pair of two birds perched openly in the canopy, giving excellent views. Once again we heard the Spot-winged Wood Quail in the same location, but they refused to move in order to be seen.

  Next we moved back to the trail and spent the remainder of our time exploring there for a final time. O           nce again we were able to add a few new birds, with a smart Green-and-rufous Kingfisher on the river, a smart encounter with a Scale-throated Hermit and a heard only encounter once again with Tufted Antshrike, as the bird adamantly refused to come out of the bamboo thicket it was calling from.

  At 09:00 we departed, with a long drive ahead of us to the San Rafael National Park, with a couple of hours detour to try and twitch an Azure Gallinule that had been reported in the week earlier. The drive took another turn when the heavens opened not long after, and they continued to hammer it down for a few hours. Even in the afternoon the rain persisted, although not with the same force.

  The site for the Azure Gallinule was a little to the east of the main highway, but a bird like that we decided to make the trip over to try and see it. We arrived and only had an hour in order to try and locate the bird before we needed to leave. A juvenile bird that flushed looked promising, but we were not sure how to separate it from the similar Purple Gallinule of which there were several. Fortunately, we soon flushed an adult, and then another adult in the same area as the juvenile! Three Azure Gallinules!

  In the same area, despite only being a short visit, we had several other good birds, including my first Dark-throated Seedeater, with a very nice male. We had a few Pearly-breasted Seedeaters as well, which were a nice trip tick.

  But at 16:00 we had to move in order to complete the drive to the PROCOSARA centre in San Rafael. The drive was long and the last 10 kilometres were all on dirt road, which had turned into a slippery mess thanks to the rain. It was a challenge but we made it at 21:00, ready for a nights rest before continuing with the Atlantic Forest birding 

Paraguay Day 19; Mbaracayu

   Our full day in Mbaracayu was really quite slow in the grand scheme of things. With most of the forest off-limits due to the presence of Guerillas, we had to stick close to the lodge area which limited our capacity to explore properly. In order to expand our range a little we hired the Mbaracayu bird guide, Sixto, who was able to take us a little further into the forest although not as much as we would have liked.

  The morning started with little activity, but we had our first target respond when we had a Riverbank Warbler pair on the side of the forest river. But the highlight of the trail was a fantastic display by a Bare-faced Bellbird, perched high in the canopy but doing a full performance whilst we watched. The rest of the morning was fairly uneventful, with a frustrating Saffron Toucanet not showing at all for me, despite flying over three times. A nice Surucoa Trogon rounded out the morning.

  After lunch and a nap now that we had moved into a room instead of camping, we set off out again. The trail delivered a little more with a Spot-billed Toucanet and a lek of White-bearded Manakins, although no males were present. A Buff-bellied Puffbird was also a nice addition to our site list. We tried hard for several other species but had no joy to speak of. We continued into the evening walking along the entrance road, and we heard some Spot-winged Wood Quail but never managed to see them and the forest was too thick to venture in. A nice Azaras Agouti was a good mammal to see. 

Paraguay Day 18; Mbaracayu

 Today the morning was something of a write off, since we had lodged in a Hospedaje near the Rancho Blanca and it was three hours drive until we reached the Reserva Natural Mbaracayu, our location for the next few days and our first interaction with the Atlantic Forest on this trip. The drive was long and some stretches passed through terrible dirt roads, but in the end we arrive at around 09:30, allowing just a little time for morning birding.

  Our visit started incredibly well, as we passed through the entrance gate to the lodge area itself, I picked up the call of a Pavonine Cuckoo and we immediately jumped out and sprung into action. The bird was responsive to playback, but was extremely reluctant to perch in the open. There was just one occasion when it sat out in the open, and we got very nice views indeed.

  There is only one trail to walk without a guide here, so we spent the rest of the morning on that. There were a few Atlantic Forest species that we picked up here, such as White-shouldered Fire-eye and Rufous-capped Spinetail, as well as heard only Bare-throated Bellbird, the acoustic backdrop to our entire day in Mbaracayu. After lunch and a nap we also birded along this trail and we added Rufous-margined Antwren, White-eyed Foliage-Gleaner and Yellow-fronted Woodpecker.

  For the rest of the afternoon we birded along the entrance road again and had another great encounter when an Eared Pygmy Tyrant came and sat out in the open right next to us, completely of its own accord. The rest of the walk saw us add Crested Becard but little else. We returned to the lodge early evening to relax and recover from the last few days. A Bat Falcon flying around overhead was an unexpected addition to our trip! 

  We tried to search for some night birds along the main road, but we had not got far before we were found by park security forces and marched back to camp. The presence of guerrilas in the forest has complicated our visit to the area. For all this trouble, we only saw a Tropical Screech Owl.

Paraguay Day 17; Estancia Arrecife & Rancho Blanca

   Today was the day we left Estancia Arrecife and headed eastwards. We started at 05:30 and slowly birded our way back to the highway, stopping at various wetland sites along the way in the hopes of picking up some new species. We did, but they were all common birds such as Yellow-rumped Marshbird, Yellow-bellied Elaenia and Olivaceous Woodcreeper. The highlights were a nice pair of Streamer-tailed Tyrants displaying, two Black-throated Saltators and a Rufescent Tiger Heron stood in the road.

  Once we had rejoined the main road, the day was almost entirely consumed by the driving, with very little seen on the way. Our first destination was the Laguna Blanca, a site which we had tried to arrange without success, but Carolina had managed. Unfortunately this turned out to be too good to be true, and the Laguna Blanca Ecolodge did not have permission to allow us on to the Rancho Blanca property.

  This was a disappointing setback, and I was ready to once again give up on accessing the site, but fortunately Max was a man possessed, so we drove up to the gate of the farm and found someone to talk to who eventually passed us on to someone else, and they gave us the go ahead on a strictly unofficial basis to spend the afternoon in the site.

  The afternoon did not start well, with the sandy soils causing chaos with the car, and not being 100% sure where best to bird, but we eventually cracked it and spent a good three hours of daylight in excellent Cerrado habitat. It was fairly quiet for the most part but we still saw goodies like White-rumped Tanager, Shrike-like Tanager and a brief Plumbeous Seedeater.

  But the real star of Rancho Blanca is the White-winged Nightjar, and so we had to stay after dark to hopefully find one. Fortunately, no sooner had darkness fallen than we picked up an individual. We followed it to its perch and found a smart female sitting there. As we photographed here the stunning white wings of a male flew past us but we never found him sitting. We were only able to find one more bird during the evening, a young male also perched atop of a termite mound, showing very well. We could have continued longer, but the circumstances of our entry, the fact we had nowhere to stay yet and the rarity of the bird led to us deciding to withdraw after this second encounter. We were truly extactic that this bird we seemed destined to miss out on had been seen, and seen well!