Brazil; ESEC Murici - Day 4

  Our initial plan was to wake early and set off early to be at our destination as early as possible. However, another rainstorm ended that plan, giving us an extra hour in bed. In the end we had just a single task on our itinerary, which was to visit the Blue-backed Manakin nest found by Lia the previous day, install a camera trap, and place to pipe over the base of the tree to provide some protection from arboreal predators.

  The morning walk to the river valley was quite relaxed, with little on the bird front. We had nice views of Red-legged Honeycreeper (although just a female), Greyish Mourner, Yellow-throated Woodpecker, and Scalloped Antbird. It was a lively walk all the same, with a few mixed-species flocks encountered along the way, although mostly composed of commoner species. For me, there was a single new species, the White-bellied Tody-Flycatcher which showed nicely but briefly. This briefness was frustratingly induced by me forgetting I had left the flash on the camera having just photographed a butterfly, allowing me just a single shot. 

  Once at the Manakin site our task was very quickly sorted, leaving us with the rest of the day basically free. Not far from the nest was a known lek of the Margaretta’s Great-billed Hermit, an endangered subspecies found only in a few sites across the Atlantic Forest. It is regarded as a full species in Brazil, but not yet by the IOC. At the lek site, we located two males holding territory, and they allowed us to approach reasonably close, although they would always remain in the shadow making photography difficult. At one point the two males clashed, rising into the air while they jousted, before disengaging and heading their own ways. This truly was a privilege of working at the site as opposed to just visiting, as the lek site is well off the main track and not viewable for visiting birders. We also took some time to look for an endemic frog, found just at a single river in the reserve; Crossodactylus dantei. Herminio found one which was very mobile and difficult to photograph, but we managed.

  The way back was also quite relaxed, with just a few birds along the way. Finally, I managed to see a Screaming Piha, although very obscured through the vegetation, as the photos I was able to manage clearly demonstrate. We arrived back at camp mid-afternoon, so Lia and I decided to head to the forest edge to try and look for raptors. There were many Black Vultures but the only species of note was a distant Mantled Hawk. There were a few other species here, including a rather showy Wedge-tailed Grassfinch and a pair of Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift that flew over. It was a really nice way to see out another long but brilliant day. 

-Margaretta’s Great-billed Hermit

-Haetera piera

-Porto Alegre Golden-eyed Tree Frog

-Crossodactylus dantei

-Wied's Fathead Anole

Species List:
ESEC Murici: Solitary Tinamou, Red-winged Tinamou, Grey-fronted Dove, Squirrel Cuckoo, Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift, Black Jacobin, Great-billed Hermit, Reddish Hermit, Planalto Hermit, Long-tailed Woodnymph, Black Vulture, Turkey Vulture, Mantled Hawk, Channel-billed Toucan, Golden-spangled Piculet, Red-stained Woodpecker, Yellow-throated Woodpecker, Crested Caracara, Red-shouldered Macaw, Silvery-flanked Antwren, Rusty-winged Antwren, Scaled Antbird, Orange-bellied Antwren, Scalloped Antbird, Black-cheeked Gnateater, Ceara Woodcreeper, Plain Xenops, Pernambuco Foliage-gleaner, Blue-backed Manakin, Red-headed Manakin, Screaming Piha, Brown-winged Schiffornis, White-throated Spadebill, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher, White-bellied Tody-Tyrant, Ochre-lored Flatbill, Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Euler's Flycatcher, Greyish Mourner, Great Kiskadee, Tropical Kingbird, Chivi Vireo, Trilling Gnatwren, Moustached Wren, Violaceous Euphonia, Yellow-green Grosbeak, Flame-crested Tanager, Palm Tanager, Burnished-buff Tanager, Blue Dacnis, Red-legged Honeycreeper, Wedge-tailed Grass Finch, Bananaquit,

Brazil; ESEC Murici - Day 3

  Today was an important day, as this was the first time we would visit the known territory of the Alagoas Antwren, to track the movements of a family party and try to observe their behaviour. Their location was quite far through the forest, so we had to make good time, but that did not stop us from constantly birding along the way. We managed our second of the Northeast endemics with Seven-coloured Tanager, which showed poorly but well enough to see the brilliant colours the species is named after. We found the endemic subspecies of Plain-winged Woodcreeper but the trogon would not respond to our playback.

  Once we arrived at the territory it was already midday, so activity was well down. After a quick lunch break we set off out in pursuit of the family group, along the way spotting Olivaceous Flatbill and finally Yellow-green Grosbeak, which were both new for me. We also found our first Pernambuco Foliage Gleaner, an endangered species generally found only at this site although known from a few other small fragments as well. Initially it did not show well, but later in the afternoon this or another showed much better feeding in the canopy. In addition, there was also our first Long-tailed Woodnymph hummingbirds, an endemic species to the NE of Brazil. We encountered a few individuals during the day, including a stunning male. 

  It did not take too long for Herminio to find the group of Alagoas Antwrens, picked up on the short whistle calls. We were able to follow them for a short while before they vanished into the forest, and it was then some time before we were able to refind them. All the time they were mobile and difficult to follow, making photography a real, almost impossible challenge. This task of following the antwrens took up all our afternoon, and as such we saw little else during the afternoon

  Before heading back we called in at a small banana farm in the middle of the forest, to get some bananas. Whilst we were here we had a stunning Mantled Hawk pass over, soaring reasonably low over the forest clearing. Then we had a real treat, with a stunning male Black-eared Fairy feeding on banana flowers, the first time that either Lia or I have seen this incredibly beautiful hummingbird.

-Scalloped Antbird

-Plain-winged Woodcreeper

-Seven-coloured Tanager

-Long-tailed Woodnymph

-White-shouldered Antshrike

-Olivaceous Flatbill

-Alagoas Antwren

-Pernambuco Foliage-Gleaner

-Yellow-green Grosbeak

-Mantled Hawk

-Blue-topped Satyr

-Malachite

-Rhinella hoogmoedi

Species List:
ESEC Murici: White-tipped Dove, Reddish Hermit, Black-eared Fairy, Long-tailed Woodnymph, Black Vulture, Turkey Vulture, Mantled Hawk, Black-necked Aracari, Red-stained Woodpecker, Golden-tailed Parrotlet, Chestnut-backed Antshrike, White-shouldered Antshrike, Plain Antvireo, Silvery-flanked Antwren, Alagoas Antwren, Rusty-winged Antwren, Orange-bellied Antwren, East Amazonian Fire-eye, Scalloped Antbird, Black-cheeked Gnateater, Plain-winged Woodcreeper, Ceara Woodcreeper, Plain Xenops, Pernambuco Foliage-gleaner, Blue-backed Manakin, Red-headed Manakin, Screaming Piha, Brown-winged Schiffornis, White-throated Spadebill, Olivaceous Flatbill, Euler's Flycatcher, Bright-rumped Attila, Great Kiskadee, Tropical Kingbird, Moustached Wren, Violaceous Euphonia, Yellow-green Grosbeak, Palm Tanager, Seven-colored Tanager, Red-necked Tanager, 

Brazil; ESEC Murici - Day 2

  Our first full day at Murici started at 05.30 with a steady breakfast and coffee, followed by a slow amble along the trail to the area we would spend the day searching for nesting birds. The forest had taken a beating in overnight storms, with strong winds and rain keeping both Lia and I awake at times. As the morning wore on the birds began to liven up and we found a few bits as we walked along the trail. We managed our first of the reserve's critically endangered inhabitants with Orange-bellied Antwren, a species that frustratingly likes to spend much of its time in the canopy. We managed good views of its stomach before it moved on. Other cool species we found included another Scalloped Antwren, Black-cheeked Gnateater, and Trilling Gnatwren.

  The surveying we did found very little, just a few old nests of hummingbirds, but the exploration of the forest yielded a nice Black-cheeked Gnateater and Red-stained Woodpecker. The way back began quite slow but towards the end, it livened up immensely, with many Screaming Piha singing away, and a few new birds for our trip list, such as Streaked Xenops and Black-necked Aracari. Perhaps the highlight of the walk was not even a bird at all, but a White Witch moth, the largest moth in the world. Lia flushed the animal from roost but helpfully it returned to an exposed perch, trusting in its camouflage, allowing us to get excellent views of this stunning beast. We also found the same lizard that we had seen the night before, and a day roosting bat under a large leaf. Once we arrived back at camp we began to unwind after our 10-kilometer hike.

  In the evening there was another light rain shower, which brought out more frog activity, with at least one new species for us from the previous day; Frostius pernambucensis. However, that was nothing, as the evening held a special treat for us all. Maybe half an hour after dark we heard a mammal calling from the canopy, and dashed over to see what we could find. There were no subsequent noises to guide us, but we headed towards a large fruiting tree that had been hosting a few different mammals in nights previous. Upon arrival there, Herminio picked out a huge Brazilian Porcupine feeding in the canopy, an enormous animal with a huge tail. This was my first porcupine and hardly what I was expecting. We were able to enjoy it for a few minutes before it descended the tree and carried on its way. And then, as if that wasn’t enough, a Kinkajou arrived, clambering over the branches as it made its way into the canopy to feed. Although it chose to feed high in the canopy, we still had brilliant views as it arrived. And then, to round things off, there was also a Big-eared Opossum in the same tree. It was an absolutely exceptional experience.

-Orange-bellied Antwren

-Black-cheeked Gnateater

-White Satyr

-White Witch Moth

-Weid's Fathead Anole

-Frostius pernambucensis

-Kinkajou

-Big-eared Opossum

-Brazilian Porcupine

-Glossophaga sp.

Species List:
ESEC Murici: Scaled Pigeon, Ruddy Quail-Dove, Short-tailed Nighthawk, Reddish Hermit, Turkey Vulture, Black-necked Aracari, Channel-billed Toucan, Red-stained Woodpecker, Yellow-throated Woodpecker, Plain Antvireo, Silvery-flanked Antwren, Rusty-winged Antwren, Scaled Antbird, Orange-bellied Antwren, Scalloped Antbird, Black-cheeked Gnateater, Ceara Woodcreeper, Plain Xenops, Streaked Xenops, Blue-backed Manakin, Red-headed Manakin, Screaming Piha, Brown-winged Schiffornis, White-throated Spadebill, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher, White-bellied Tody-Tyrant, Bright-rumped Attila, Chivi Vireo, Trilling Gnatwren, Violaceous Euphonia, Yellow-green Grosbeak, Kinkajou, Big-eared Opossum, Brazilian Porcupine,

Brazil; ESEC Murici - Day 1

  Of all the reserves in Brazil, arguably none is as important as ESEC Muiric, the largest fragment of the once glorious Pernambuco Centre of Endemism. Planning to visit this reserve requires a lot of planning, government permission, and a regional guide. But with the populations of birds continuing to dwindle, Lia and I decided that now would be the best time to try and visit, before the birds disappear completely. We contacted a friend of ours who works on the project in the reserve about entry, and he offered us an amazing opportunity to work in the reserve helping the researchers find species’ nests since Lia has experience with her work on the Helmeted Manakin. We could not say no, it was an unbelievable offer.

  And so at around 14.30 on the 28^th January, we finally reached the reserve where we would be spending the next ten days, birding and enjoying what remains of the forest. After we had carried our luggage to our camp, Lia and I went out for some birding before dark. The forest was pretty quiet but we still managed to catch up with Scalloped Antbird, which was one of the easier targets we hoped to see here, but still a target nonetheless. It showed briefly in the dusky understory but our views were quite limited.

  Rainfall at the end of the day brought out all kinds of life, namely numerous species of frogs, of which we probably found in the region of six different species just around the campsite. There was also a magnificent tarantula in the campsite, and a species of crab enjoying the river that we would be using for drinking water. Although only myself and the head researcher Herminio saw them, the highlight was a pair of Kinkajou that arrived in the trees above the campsite and started chasing each other, calling loudly before dashing off through the canopy. It was an excellent start to our work, and we could not wait to get stuck into the rest. 

-Haddad's Tree Frog

-Fringe-footed Tree Frog

-Emerald-eyed Tree Frog

-Paraiba Robber Frog

-Granular Leaf Frog

-Tarantula sp.

-Wied's Fathead Anole

Species List:
ESEC Murici: Short-tailed Nighthawk, Silvery-flanked Antwren, Scalloped Antbird, Ceara Woodcreeper, Blue-backed Manakin, Screaming Piha, Brown-winged Schiffornis, Palm Tanager, Kinkajou, Haddad's Tree Frog, Fringe-footed Tree Frog, Northeastern Pepper Frog, Emerald-eyed Tree Frog, Paraiba Robber Frog, Wied's Fathead Anole, 

Argentina; Parque Nacional Los Alerces - Day 6

  The morning started quite gloomy but the rain had mercifully stopped. We did a little birding around our campsite, but that was only first-thing. The previous day we had heard many Chucao Tapaculos singing at various points during the day, including around the campsite, but we had been unable to find any of them in the conditions. Now there was a bird calling behind our tent once again, so we headed into the bushes to try and find it. What happens next will probably be the highlight of 2022, on just the second day of the year. Chucao is one of my bucket-list birds, so I was desperate to see this individual that was singing so close to us. The bird then came hopping out of the bushes right in front of us, before spending the next 15 minutes jumping around us, so close that you could touch it. At one point it even started posturing to its own reflection in my camera lens, that’s how close it came. It was absolutely amazing, the only downside being that the light was too gloomy for good photos. It was truly amazing to see the bird like this!

  Our plan for the day was to drive slowly north along the shore of the stunning Lago Futalaufquen at the north end of Parque Nacional Los Alerces, birding the beautiful forests as we went. Helpfully the clouds cleared and we were treated to some brilliant weather, still a little chilly but a marked improvement on the previous day's deluge. The birding was nice and relaxed, with not a huge variety of species but many range-restricted to this southern area of South America. We found regional specialties such as Black-chinned Siskin, Austral Blackbird, Green-backed Firecrown and Austral Pygmy Owl.

  We also had our second new Tapaculo of the day when we managed to find a Black-throated Huet-Huet in the undergrowth. At first the bird was mobile and difficult to track as it scuttled through the undergrowth, but with some patience we were able to finally see the bird sit still for a few seconds which allowed us to grab some photos. During this short period of observation we were able to watch the bird singing as well when it puffed out its throat and cocked its tail downwards. While we waited another Chucao Tapaculo came in close to inspect us before it too scurried off into the bushes.

  We also saw another Black-throated Huet-Huet at the end of the afternoon when we made another short stop in the forests along the shore of another smaller lake just to the north, called Lago Verde. Here we managed to find our first White-throated Treerunner, as well as getting our best views of Patagonian Serra Finch. From here we drove north until we camped near the shores of the stunningly beautiful Lago Puelo.

Species List:
Parque Nacional Los Alerces: Ashy-headed Goose, Yellow-billed Teal, Eared Dove, Green-backed Firecrown, Southern Lapwing, Kelp Gull, Black-crowned Night Heron, Black-faced Ibis, Black Vulture, Austral Pygmy Owl, Chimango Caracara, Black-throated Huet-huet, Chucao Tapaculo, White-throated Treerunner, Dark-bellied Cinclodes, Thorn-tailed Rayadito, Tufted Tit-Tyrant, Chilean Elaenia, Fire-eyed Diucon, Chilean Swallow, House Wren, Austral Thrush, Black-chinned Siskin, Long-tailed Meadowlark, Austral Blackbird, Patagonian Sierra Finch, Diuca Finch,

Argentina; Parque Nacional Los Alerces - Day 5

  We awoke to a beautiful day in the canyon, and after a quick breakfast we continued on our way across the vast expanse of Patagonia to reach the forests of southern Argentina. There was not much bird-wise on our drive, although we found a small family of Upland Geese on a flowing river. We also had a skunk cross the road in front of us at one point, which was an unexpected mammal tick for our trip. As we approached our destination we found a small river valley where there were a few birds, including Rufous-tailed Plantcutter, which was a lifer for us.

  Our destination for the day was the stunningly beautiful Parque Nacional Los Alerces, but as we approached the Andes the clouds started to appear and then it began to rain, and then it did not stop. The whole of the afternoon was consistent rainfall. Although we made a few stops and were able to find some nice birds such as Chilean Flicker, Fire-eyed Duicon and Californian Quail, it was difficult to find the motivation to get out birding as we just got soaked, and at this latitude it was not as warm as it had been at other stops on our trip.

  From our drive through the park we found a few more nice birds, such as a few Ashy-headed Geese among the throngs of Upland Geese feeding by a lake. And at our chosen campsite a quick walk yielded a small flock of Thorn-tailed Rayaditos and a Dark-bellied Cincloides, the latter singing from the roof of the toilet block. Sadly our first experience of the stunning Patagonian forests was of rain and cold, but that would improve. 

Species List:
Parque Nacional Los Alerces: Upland Goose, Ashy-headed Goose, California Quail, Eared Dove, Chimango Caracara, Ringed Kingfisher, Chilean Flicker, Sharp-billed Canastero, Rufous-tailed Plantcutter, Fire-eyed Duicon, Chilean Elaenia, Spectacled Tyrant, Austral Thrush, Long-tailed Meadowlark, Diuca Finch, Mourning Sierra Finch, Grassland Yellow Finch,