Peru - Day 15; Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge & Manu Road

   Sadly today would be the last day on the Manu Road, as we would return to Cusco ready for our flight the following day, and the next step in our adventure. We awoke nice and early at the Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge and before breakfast had time to explore the trails a bit. There was quite a bit of activity but actually seeing birds in the dull, dark understorey was a different story, and much went unseen. The best bird I did see was probably a pair of Black-googled Tanagers. I am familiar with this species from my time in Brasilia, but since then the Andean population has been touted as a split, and since I only saw it once with no pictures, it was good to connect with it again.

  Over breakfast we had undoubtedly the highlight of the day. We were enjoying our fruits, and watching the Tufted Capuchins and Brown Agoutis going about their business, when I glanced over to see a Tayra visiting the fruit feeder. Probably my most glaring omission from my South American mammal list, I was thrilled to see this large mustelid showing off at the feeders. It kept coming and returning allowing for simply incredible views just a few metres away from us. Equally entertaining were the Agoutis, who flared up their rump hairs every time the Tayra came close, like a minature peacock display! The Peruvian Piedtail also paid a quick visit during breakfast.

  After breakfast we hit the road from Cock-of-the Lodge, a nice lodge with very nice staff and an excellent location but the facilities sadly did not justify the price. There were a few species I wanted to try as we ascended the Manu Road, the first of these being the Hazel-fronted Pygmy-Tyrant that I had missed on my way down. Fortunately this time the bird did come in response to my playback and showed quite well in the end, although it took a while to get a photo of it since it always seemed to be in motion. A White-crowned Tapaculo was also present here, and showed briefly but was too quick for photos. 

  Continuing up the road we passed a lively mixed-species flock with several interesting bird species included. In terms of the tanagers, Black-eared Hemispingus and Yellow-throated Tanager were the most interesting species present. Golden-eyed Flowerpiercer was also a nice addition, as was Grey-eared Brushfinch and a as yet unidentified species of Treehunter. 

  Near the top of the Manu Road there was one more species I wanted to track down, the Urubamba Antpitta. On the way down I had no sight or sound of this species but thought to give it another go. In the fog I wandered up the road and fairly quickly got a response from a bird in thick clump of vegetation near the road. Of course, I crawled into the bushes and there it was, the Urubamba Antpitta staring me down as it sang! One of my easiest Antpittas and a brilliant way to end our time on the Manu Road. After this we returned to Cusco, cleaned the car and sorted out some Laundry. All ready for the next phase of the trip. 

Peru - Day 14; Amazonia Lodge & Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge

   The previous days rain continued during the night, and although it had stopped by the morning it was still grey and damp conditions to be birding. Our boat back to civilization, and the car, was at 09:00 and so there were only a few hours of daylight left before we would be leaving the lodge. First I birded the Jeep Trail and then finished with a small detour to try to see the Amazonian Antpitta again.

  No sooner had I started my walk did I get arguably the bird of the morning, when a Razor-billed Curassow dashed into the forest as I walked past. I was able to keep track of its moving behind the vines, but it never came out into the open fully for a good photo, leaving me with just glimpses through the trees. A very impressive bird to see! There was good activity along the trails, with commoner antbird species and a few other commoner rainforest birds. I finished the walk by finally getting my own eyes on the previous days Amazonian Antpitta. It still required some effort, and he did not show well but I had achieved my task!

  Due to the immense rainfall of the preceeding day, the river was an absolute torrent and at times the boat struggled to get upstream against the current. Once we were back at the car we headed back up the Manu Road to Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge where we had spontaneously reserved a night. Due to having no stops at lower altitudes we arrived just before midday and spent the time birding the garden. It was alive with mammals, with at least four Brown Agouti running around and a group of Tufted Capuchin monkeys feeding in the bamboo behind the kitchen.

  The main target for the garden here is the Peruvian Piedtail, a range restricted but otherwise unspectacular hummingbird. Having dipped it before I was quite keep to see it now, and it did not take long before I spotted the bird feeding on the Verbena flowers at the top of the garden. Sadly it was too brief on this occasion, and I had to wait an hour for it to reappear again. Once it did reappear I was too slow for photos, and had to wait again for a third appearance to get some pictures. Fortunately this time I was more prepared and I was able to get a few record shots of the bird.

  At the end of the afternoon we visited the Cock-of-the-Rock lek site just up the road from the lodge. I had heard good things about this lek, but whilst it was enjoyable it still did not compare to my experience in Colombia. There were six males here, but most were largely concealed by the vegetation, and the display action was quite limited. The birds spent most of their time slowly looking around whilst their plumage glowed around them.