Sunday, 30 November 2025

Oceanwide Day 4; Falkland Islands - Barren Island & George Island

   It was quite the bumpy overnight ride on the ship, and I regularly found myself awake as the ship crashed through the waves, so I wasn’t in much of a rush to wake up in the morning, instead waiting for the morning announcement before getting out of bed. That was around 07:00, and after that and a short breakfast we commenced with the days agenda. 

  The morning would be spent visiting the aptly named Barren Island on the south side of the Falklands. This was an island not visited by even most of the staff, so it was exciting to explore. On the seabird front the highlights were breeding Gentoo Penguins and a few Magellanic Penguins as well, plus Southern Giant Petrels, which were also enjoying feeding on a dead and well-rotten Sei Whale that had washed up in the harbour. 

  On the island itself there were a few nice birds to hunt for. Cobbs Wren was a possibility here but we never found one. The Blackish Cincloides was very common, and very tame, allowing for enhanced views after yesterdays briefer encounter. The White-bridled Finch was common here, although not particularly confiding it has to be noted. Only at the end was able to get close enough for good shots. And there were several confiding Two-banded Plovers, allowing for my best views of the species.

  In addition to the birds there was also a small colony of South American Sea Lions, and on the beach were our first Southern Elephant Seals, although they did not do a great deal while we were there. Obviously the birds took priority but these were still nice to see. We returned to the main ship around midday and took our lunch and a short break before heading out for the afternoon.

  Our afternoon destination was the very close George Island, a private sheep farm that we were lucky to have been able to arrange access to. This island also had Cobbs Wren, with a pair apparently nesting at the farmhouse, and so that became the afternoon priority. Despite this, it still took a good 40 minutes to find an individual around the farmhouse, and the bird could not be approached due to the high interest it generated among punters. Fortunately, we were also able to explore an area of tussock and in here there was another Cobbs Wren that showed fantastically well.

  With the wren now seen, my only outstanding species for the Falklands for the Rufous-chested Dotterel, and on the wild terrain of George Island we managed to find two, although always distant. The birding here was very enjoyable, with only a handful of Magellanic Penguins but plenty of the Falkland races of terrestrial species, including more confiding Tussockbirds, and offshore there was a nice group of four White-tufted Grebes. 

  At night we sailed around the south side of the Falklands to reach the port of Stanley in the morning. This route took us past Sealion Island which apparently has a resident pod of Orca but sadly we did not encounter them. It was not a complete loss on the cetacean front however, as we did see two distant Sei Whales, identifiable by their obvious fin. A very pleasant way to end an excellent day.

-Gentoo Penguin
-Magellanic Penguin
-Magellanic Snipe
-Two-banded Plover
-White-bridled Finch
-Falkland Steamer Duck
-Blackish Cinclodes
-Brown Skua
-Striated Caracara
-Cobb's Wren
-Rufous-chested Dotterel
-White-tufted Grebe
-Sei Whale
-Southern Elephant Seal
-South American Sea Lion

Saturday, 29 November 2025

Oceanwide Day 3; Falkland Islands - New Island

   We arrived at the Falklands early in the morning, on the western edge of the islands, ready for our first visit to one of the subantarctic islands. The island of choice was New Island, on which we visited two different areas, but both with a different assortment of seabirds. The winds were strong, but the skies were largely cloudless meaning it was quite pleasant conditions to be outside in, at least once the bumpy zodiac rides, necessary to reach the islands, had been completed.

  The first area we visited was in the centre of the island. The main attraction was the seabird colony above the cliffs on the west side, with impressive numbers of King Imperial Shags, Black-browed Albatross, and the highlights being the Southern Rockhopper Penguins. It was great to see the penguins jumping along the rocks and trying to get out of what were very stormy seas. In addition, in one of the Rockhopper Penguins nesting areas there was also our first Macaroni Penguin of the trip, and although it did not show close, it was still nice to see in comparison to the smaller Rockhoppers. There were also our first Snowy Sheathbills of the trip, but they were always distant. Less distant were our first Brown Skuas, which showed very nicely as they picked off eggs from careless nesting birds. 

  Away from the seabirds there were a few terrestrial species to track down here. The first of these was the Blackish Cinclodes, the Falkland race affectionately known as the Tussockbird. They were apparently not common on this island but one did make a couple of appearances near the seabird colony. Striated Caracara and Ruddy-headed Goose were two more new species for me today, but they were expected on the Falklands, as well as a couple of Falkland Steamer Ducks in our landing bay. 

  After lunch we headed round to an area on the north side of the island. Our journey across on the Zodiacs saw us encounter a few Peale’s Dolphins, but they did not show well. In the bay round the north area of our trails we had better, more continuous views of these dolphins, but they never seemed to want to breach making identification a long process. 

  The main seabirds here were another colony of Black-browed Albatross, with three species of Penguin; Gentoo being the most common, followed by Magellanic and then a few Southern Rockhoppers thrown in to the Albatross colony. Most of our time was spent with the Gentoo Penguins as there was a constant conveyor of birds coming and going from the sea to the colony. It was good to see them porpoising as they approached the beach as well as another group sheltering their small chicks in the windy conditions. 

  Other good birds here included more and better views of Snowy Sheathbill, Brown Skua and Falkland Steamer Duck. Striated Caracara was also extremely confiding here, with one dozy individual being extremely approachable as it sheltered below a small rocky outcrop. There were no new birds here, but since the only Kelp Geese I had seen before were distant, the group feeding at close quarters on the beach was much appreciated.

  We returned to the ship at 18:00 and after dinner spent the evening on the deck enjoying the stunning evening light. The boat trip as we rounded the island was very bumpy, and there were some spectacular crashes as the ship plowed through the waves. The seabird action was however, quite limited with only the same species as yesterday seen. At 21:00 I headed inside to write my notes and then went to bed.

-Ruddy-headed Goose
-Austral Thrush
-Blackish Cinclodes
-Black-crowned Night Heron
-Southern Rockhopper Penguin
-Imperial Shag
-Macaroni Penguin
-Brown Skua
-Striated Caracara
-Black-browed Albatross
-Gentoo Penguin
-Kelp Goose
-Magellanic Penguin
-Falkland Steamer Duck
Peale's Dolphin