Argentina; Parque Nacional Los Alerces - Day 5

  We awoke to a beautiful day in the canyon, and after a quick breakfast we continued on our way across the vast expanse of Patagonia to reach the forests of southern Argentina. There was not much bird-wise on our drive, although we found a small family of Upland Geese on a flowing river. We also had a skunk cross the road in front of us at one point, which was an unexpected mammal tick for our trip. As we approached our destination we found a small river valley where there were a few birds, including Rufous-tailed Plantcutter, which was a lifer for us.

  Our destination for the day was the stunningly beautiful Parque Nacional Los Alerces, but as we approached the Andes the clouds started to appear and then it began to rain, and then it did not stop. The whole of the afternoon was consistent rainfall. Although we made a few stops and were able to find some nice birds such as Chilean Flicker, Fire-eyed Duicon and Californian Quail, it was difficult to find the motivation to get out birding as we just got soaked, and at this latitude it was not as warm as it had been at other stops on our trip.

  From our drive through the park we found a few more nice birds, such as a few Ashy-headed Geese among the throngs of Upland Geese feeding by a lake. And at our chosen campsite a quick walk yielded a small flock of Thorn-tailed Rayaditos and a Dark-bellied Cincloides, the latter singing from the roof of the toilet block. Sadly our first experience of the stunning Patagonian forests was of rain and cold, but that would improve. 

Species List:
Parque Nacional Los Alerces: Upland Goose, Ashy-headed Goose, California Quail, Eared Dove, Chimango Caracara, Ringed Kingfisher, Chilean Flicker, Sharp-billed Canastero, Rufous-tailed Plantcutter, Fire-eyed Duicon, Chilean Elaenia, Spectacled Tyrant, Austral Thrush, Long-tailed Meadowlark, Diuca Finch, Mourning Sierra Finch, Grassland Yellow Finch,

Argentina; Punta Tombo - Day 4

  Today was one of the most anticipated days of our itinerary in Argentina. That was because this would be the first time I would ever see wild penguins, when we visited an active colony of several thousand birds just south of where we stayed the previous night, surrounded by beautiful Patagonian wilderness.

  There was still a bit of a drive to the site and on this route that we found quite a few interesting things to slow us down. There were a few birds perched on the fenceposts that were new for us, such as Rusty-backed Monjita and Grey-bellied Shrike-Tyrant. In open areas we also found our first Lesser Rheas of the trip, although they scarpered into the scrub pretty quickly when we pulled over to look at them. There were also a few groups of Patagonian Mara by the roadside, although these would also be common in the reserve itself once we arrived.

  The Magellanic Penguin colony was really quite spectacular. The scenery with the thousands of penguins dotted all around made for quite the spectacle. There were penguins of all ages even right next to the path. At the end of the short trail was a clifftop viewpoint from which we could watch the birds swimming in the surf below us, which is where they really came alive. The sheer spectacle of it is amazing, like the Farne Islands on steroids.

  In addition to the penguins there were many other birds to enjoy here. As we drove through the barren interior of the site we had a fantastic encounter with a gorgeous male Cinereous Harrier that flew across the road in front of us. The scrub around the site had a few nice birds, including some very relaxed Elegant Crested Tinamous, probably the best views I have ever had of any Tinamou, watching them feed just a few feet in front of us. There were a few birds around the sea as well, including Magellanic and Blackish Oystercatcher, and the range-restricted Chubut Steamer Duck.

  But perhaps the highlight of the day was an incredible Southern Giant Petrel that did flybys along the coastline. When it passed over us it was incredibly low, offering us a chance to really get to grips with the scale of these giants. Before I thought nothing these birds were nothing more than hideous brutes, but having seen one, now I was absolutely blown away by it.

  We had quite the drive across Patagonian to reach the Andes on the far side of the country for our next birding stop. Although we had no clear plan, we set off hoping to make it as far as we could before dark. In the end, we stopped in a beautiful canyon where we had a campfire and celebrated the new year cooking pizza. There were a few birds here, such as White-winged Black-Tyrant and Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle, but the highlight was spotted a few relaxing Mountain Viscacha on the cliff-faces. There was literally no better way to celebrate the end of 2021!

Species List:
Punta Tombo: Elegant Crested Tinamou, Chubut Steamer Duck, Crested Duck, Great Grebe, American Oystercatcher, Blackish Oystercatcher, Magellanic Oystercatcher, Brown Skua, Dolphin Gull, Kelp Gull, Magellanic Penguin, Southern Giant Petrel, Rock Shag, Imperial Shag, Great Egret, Turkey Vulture, Chimango Caracara, Band-tailed Earthcreeper, Sharp-billed Canastero, Tufted Tit-Tyrant, Austral Negrito, Southern Martin, Chilean Swallow, Patagonian Mockingbird, House Sparrow, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Mourning Sierra Finch, 

Argentina; Las Grutas & Playa Union - Day 3

  Las Grutas sits in the middle of the coastal reaches of the Monte Desert ecosystem. This was a new ecosystem for Lia and myself, and we were excited to explore it. Because the region is so vast, there is nowhere specific to go birding, and so we headed to the area immediately behind the town to begin our birding.

  The mornings birding was, as expected excellent. There were many new species for us, including White-throated Cacholote, Patagonian, Steinbachs and Sharp-billed Canasteros, Ringed Warbling Finch and Greater Wagtail Tyrant among others. While most of these were simply brown birds, it was good to see the White-throated Cacholote as it was a tricky species that we were hoping to target further to the north. Despite all the new birds the highlight has to be continued excellent views of the Burrowing Parrots, with many perching in the desert vegetation quite close to where we were watching from. A male Cinereous Harrier that flew by distantly was probably the best of the new birds that we were able to see.

  Obviously, it being a desert, by around midday the heat had all but killed activity in the area so we headed off to grab some supplies in the town, and then head to a beach where we hoped to find some shorebirds. We were able to find a few interesting species on the beach, including Crested Duck and Snowy-crowned Tern. We used the scope to scan out to see where there was good activity but unfortunately it was just too far to be sure. Many of the shearwaters I got a good view of appeared to be Manx, but it is impossible to be certain.

  It was then a long drive before our destination for the evening, a small town called Playa Union. Once again we arrived in the late afternoon so had some time to head to the beach This beach was composed of pebbles, and being further south we decided not to go swimming but instead to scan for any passing seabirds. There was a little activity, but the undoubted highlight was at least two Southern Giant Petrels, both of which flew by to the north.

Species List:
Las Grutas: Crested Duck, Spot-winged Pigeon, Picui Ground Dove, Eared Dove, American Oystercatcher, Southern Lapwing, Brown-hooded Gull, Kelp Gull, Snowy-crowned Tern, Neotropic Cormorant, Snowy Egret, Black-crowned Night Heron, Black Vulture, Turkey Vulture, Cinereous Harrier, Chimango Caracara, American Kestrel, Burrowing Parrot, Rufous Hornero, Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetail, Sharp-billed Canastero, Patagonian Canastero, Steinbach's Canastero, White-throated Cacholote, White-tipped Plantcutter, White-crested Tyrannulet, Straneck's Tyrannulet, Greater Wagtail-Tyrant, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Blue-and-white Swallow, Southern Martin, Barn Swallow, House Wren, Patagonian Mockingbird, White-banded Mockingbird, Austral Thrush, House Sparrow, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Long-tailed Meadowlark, Shiny Cowbird, Ringed Warbling Finch, Diuca Finch, Mourning Sierra Finch,
Playa Union: Great Grebe, Feral Pigeon, Eared Dove, Brown-hooded Gull, Kelp Gull, Southern Giant Petrel, Rock Shag, Rufous Hornero, Great Kiskadee, Southern Martin, Brown-chested Martin, Patagonian Mockingbird, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, House Sparrow, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Greyish Baywing, Blue-and-yellow Tanager,

Argentina; Saavedra & Las Grutas - Day 2

  The Pampas is the most threatened ecosystem within Argentina, as much of its area had been converted to pasture or crop fields. As such, some of its inhabitants are now considered endangered, and it was one of these species that we would be trying to find during the morning today; the Pampas Meadowlark.

  For the most part the birding revolved around driving through remote farmland tracks in the search for Meadowlarks. We would then have to wait for these birds to fly so that we could check the colour of their underwings; black being the rare Pampas Meadowlark and white being the common Long-tailed Meadowlark. During the morning we checked hundreds of Meadowlarks and all had white underwings. At this point it was not looking promising, but Giselle and Facundo knew a location near where we would end our search where they felt we had our best chance, this being where some birds had been studied by a PhD student, investigating why the species had declined so markedly. As soon as we arrived at this point a large flock of maybe 100 Pampas Meadowlarks took off from the middle of the road. Frustratingly they all landed distantly in the adjacent field, and we never managed such good views again, often restricted to flybys. Still, we had managed to find our number one target and we had seen it well.

  This was obviously not the only species we saw during the morning, as we managed many Pampas species as we cruised around the fields. Some commoner species we found that were new for me included Bearded Tachuri, Firewood Gatherer, Short-billed Pipit, and the rare Pampas Pipit. At one point we found a small wetland and while birding there we found a few birds, including Yellow-shouldered Blackbird and Wren-like Rushbird, as well as a very relaxed Coypu. A pair of Chiloe Wigeon flew over as well. We found a few Greater Rhea during the drive as well, but they typically made a break for it as soon as we stopped to look at them. And finally, as we were admiring the Meadowlarks, a Spotted Nothura ran out of the grass onto the road, allowing us to get fantastic views of this elusive species.

  So having achieved what we wanted in the Pampas here we began our long drive south to the town of Las Grutas where we would spend the night. We, fortunately, arrived just before dark and so had a short walk to the beach for a quick swim. Obviously, there were not many birds to go with this, but the town was rammed with Burrowing Parrots, hanging from the wires in loud, noisy groups, it was really something to behold.

Species List:
Saavedra: Greater Rhea, Spotted Nothura, Chiloe Wigeon, White-cheeked Pintail, Yellow-billed Pintail, Yellow-billed Teal, Lake Duck, Feral Pigeon, Picazuro Pigeon, Spot-winged Pigeon, White-backed Stilt, Southern Lapwing, Lesser Yellowlegs, Brown-hooded Gull, Snowy Egret, Western Cattle Egret, Whistling Heron, White-faced Ibis, Bare-faced Ibis, Black-faced Ibis, Long-winged Harrier, Amazon Kingfisher, Green-barred Woodpecker, Campo Flicker, Chimango Caracara, Rufous Hornero, Firewood-gatherer, Bearded Tachuri, Sooty Tyrannulet, Scarlet Flycatcher, Austral Negrito, Spectacled Tyrant, Great Kiskadee, Tropical Kingbird, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Southern Martin, Brown-chested Martin, White-rumped Swallow, Sand Martin, Barn Swallow, American Cliff Swallow, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Short-billed Pipit, Pampas Pipit, Hooded Siskin, Grassland Sparrow, Rufous-collared Sparrow, White-browed Blackbird, Pampas Meadowlark, Long-tailed Meadowlark, Shiny Cowbird, Greyish Baywing, Yellow-winged Blackbird, Brown-and-yellow Marshbird, Grassland Yellow Finch, Pampa Finch, Brown Hare, Coypu,
Las Grutas: Southern Lapwing, Brown-hooded Gull, Black-crowned Night Heron, Burrowing Parrot, 

Argentina; Nechochea & Tornquist - Day 1

  We had landed the previous day and taken an overnight bus to meet up with our friends Giselle and Facundo in the south of Buenos Aires province. By this point we were pretty knackered but with so much potential good birding on offer we were given an adrenaline boost and off we went. At first, we only birded the river near the town where we had a few new species but mostly birds we were familiar with from Brazil. Chief among the new species was the obviously non-native Crested Myna, with at least two individuals sitting by the side of the road as we departed the site. Otherwise, it was nice to see Lesser Yellowlegs and spot our first Yellow-billed Pintail.

  After some shopping and packing, we headed out for a late morning’s birding in the Pampas. Despite it already being quite hot, we found a few of the pampa’s endemics quite easily. At our first location, we had nice views of Brown-and-yellow Marshbird and eventually good views of our key target, the elusive Hudson’s Canastero. We then moved on to a new location where we found Bay-capped Wren-Spinetail and Correndera Pipit, but by this point, the heat had ground activity to almost a complete standstill, so we started with our huge trip south.

  It was not until early evening that we arrived at our Campsite, near where we planned to bird the following day. Although for the most part, the landscape had been flat with fields, in this area it was truly stunning with beautiful hillsides and forested valleys. There was some good birding as well, with our first Burrowing Parrots of the trip flying across the road here. At the campsite itself there were more new birds for us, although these were common birds that we would get used to over the next few days; Spot-winged Pigeon, Screaming Cowbird and Stripe-crowned Spinetail. There were also some very spectacular Monk Parakeet nests around the site. As night was falling a Striped Owl appeared briefly on the edge of the campsite, but it departed too quickly for photos.

Species List:
Nechochea: Red-winged Tinamou, Spotted Nothura, White-faced Whistling Duck, Yellow-billed Pintail, Great Grebe, Rock Dove, Picazuro Pigeon, Picui Ground Dove, Eared Dove, White-backed Stilt, Southern Lapwing, Lesser Yellowlegs, Brown-hooded Gull, Grey-headed Gull, Neotropic Cormorant, Bare-faced Ibis, Burrowing Owl, Green-barred Woodpecker, Campo Flicker, Crested Caracara, Chimango Caracara, Monk Parakeet, Rufous Hornero, Hudson's Canastero, Bay-capped Wren-Spinetail, Scarlet Flycatcher, Cattle Tyrant, Great Kiskadee, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, White-rumped Swallow, Barn Swallow, House Wren, Grass Wren, Common Starling, Crested Myna, House Sparrow, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Long-tailed Meadowlark, Shiny Cowbird, Brown-and-yellow Marshbird, Grassland Yellow Finch, Pampa Finch, Double-collared Seedeater,
Tornquist department: Spotted Nothura, Feral Pigeon, Picazuro Pigeon, Spot-winged Pigeon, Picui Ground Dove, Eared Dove, Southern Lapwing, Neotropic Cormorant, Snowy Egret, Green-barred Woodpecker, Chimango Caracara, Monk Parakeet, Burrowing Parrot, Rufous Hornero, Stripe-crowned Spinetail, Tropical Kingbird, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Southern Martin, Barn Swallow, House Wren, Common Starling, Austral Thrush, House Sparrow, Hooded Siskin, Screaming Cowbird, Saffron Finch, Double-collared Seedeater, 

Brazil; Peruibe

Now that Lia has finished the writing phase of her thesis we have a bit more time, although there is still lots to do before she defends. This weekend we headed to the small coastal town of Peruibe for a family trip, with her cousin and his boyfriend over from Germany. There was not much time spent birding and the weather was pretty rough going, but it was the beach and we did enjoy excellent views of Kelp Gull and Royal Tern, as well as seeing Frigatebirds every day.

-Beach at Peruibe

-Kelp Gull

Species List:

Peruibe: Feral Pigeon, Black Jacobin, Kelp Gull, Royal Tern, Magnificent Frigatebird, Black Vulture, Turkey Vulture, Rufous Hornero, Grey-breasted Martin, Saffron Finch, House Sparrow, Sayaca Tanager, Bananaquit,

Brazil; Itatiba

 Now that we are out of Sao Paulo, we have been able to head out birding every morning, even if just round the estates waterbodies. We made a couple of visits to the nearby marsh, as well as visiting the local lake. On the whole the weather has been good and there has been a lot of bird activity, including patch ticks at both sites.

 Perhaps the most surprising patch tick was in Lia’s estate where we found a Rufous Gnateater holding territory. This normally deep forest species is quite secretive and so it was surprise to find one singing in the small patch of forest just at the bottom of the valley. This is the same forest patch that yielded other, albeit more adaptable, forest species such as Variable Antshrike and Spix Spinetail. Many of the trees here were also in full flower, so there was quite a bit of hummingbird activity with Black Jacobin, Sapphire-spangled Emerald and two Stripe-breasted Starthroats enjoying them. Another surprising patch tick for Lia was a flyover juvenile Snail Kite. Not a rare species at all, but there are not many sizeable wetlands nearby that could support this species.

 The small marsh just over the hill had a few species on offer as well. A White-vented Violetear was a nice Sao Paulo tick for me. There was also nice surprises in the form of Plain Antvireo and a pair of Dusky-legged Guans. These guans roam around the neighbourhood and even drink from the swimming pool in Lia’s parents’ garden, but this is the first time I have seen them. A distant Laughing Falcon was heard calling on one of the mornings, and after some time we were able to spot it, although it was nearly always looking in the opposite direction. 

-Variable Antshrike

-Stripe-breasted Starthroat

-Spix Spinetail

-Blue-and-white Swallow

-Snail Kite

-Common Tody-Flycatcher

-Plain Antvireo

-Dusky-legged Guan

Species List:
Lagoa do Jardim Leonor: Brazilian Teal, Picazuro Pigeon, Ruddy Ground Dove, White-tipped Dove, Eared Dove, Guira Cuckoo, Squirrel Cuckoo, Sick's Swift, Planalto Hermit, Black-throated Mango, Stripe-breasted Starthroat, Glittering-bellied Emerald, Swallow-tailed Hummingbird, Sapphire-spangled Emerald, Common Gallinule, Southern Lapwing, Wattled Jacana, Neotropic Cormorant, Western Cattle Egret, Rufescent Tiger Heron, Great Egret, Western Cattle Egret, Black-crowned Night Heron, Bare-faced Ibis, Buff-necked Ibis, Green Ibis, Black Vulture, Turkey Vulture, Snail Kite, Savanna Hawk, Roadside Hawk, White-tailed Hawk, Tropical Screech Owl, Ringed Kingfisher, Amazon Kingfisher, White Woodpecker, Lineated Woodpecker, Green-barred Woodpecker, Campo Flicker, Red-legged Seriema, Crested Caracara, Yellow-headed Caracara, Aplomado Falcon, Yellow-chevroned Parakeet, Turquoise-fronted Amazon, Cobalt-rumped Parrotlet, White-eyed Parakeet, Barred Antshrike, Varied Antshrike, Rufous Gnateater, Rufous Hornero, Spix Spinetail, Yellow-chinned Spinetail, Southern Beardless Tyrannulet, Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Large Elaenia, White-crested Tyrannulet, Yellow-browed Tyrant, Grey Monjita, Masked Water Tyrant, Great Kiskadee, Boat-billed Flycatcher, Streaked Flycatcher, Variegated Flycatcher, Tropical Kingbird, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Blue-and-white Swallow, Southern Rough-winged Swallow, Grey-breasted Martin, White-rumped Swallow, House Wren, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Pale-breasted Thrush, Rufous-bellied Thrush, Creamy-bellied Thrush, Common Waxbill, House Sparrow, Hooded Siskin, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Variable Oriole, Shiny Cowbird, Southern Yellowthroat, Tropical Parula, Orange-headed Tanager, Sayaca Tanager, Swallow Tanager, Chestnut-vented Conebill, Saffron Finch, Blue-black Grassquit, Lined Seedeater, Double-collared Seedeater, Bananaquit, Guianan Squirrel, Capybara,
Brejão da ETE: Dusky-legged Guan, Brazilian Teal, Picazuro Pigeon, Ruddy Ground Dove, Eared Dove, Squirrel Cuckoo, Sick's Swift, Black Jacobin, Planalto Hermit, White-vented Violetear, Black-throated Mango, Stripe-breasted Starthroat, Glittering-bellied Emerald, Swallow-tailed Hummingbird, Southern Lapwing, Cocoi Heron, Buff-necked Ibis, Black Vulture, Plumbeous Kite, Roadside Hawk, White-tailed Hawk, Short-tailed Hawk, Toco Toucan, White-spotted Woodpecker, Lineated Woodpecker, Crested Caracara, Laughing Falcon, Yellow-chevroned Parakeet, Cobalt-rumped Parrotlet, White-eyed Parakeet, Plain Antvireo, Rufous Hornero, Orange-breasted Thornbird, Spix’s Spinetail, Yellow-chinned Spinetail, Common Tody-Flycatcher, Yellow-Olive Flatbill, Southern Beardless Tyrannulet, Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Large Elaenia, White-crested Tyrannulet, Bran-colored Flycatcher, Masked Water Tyrant, Short-crested Flycatcher, Cattle Tyrant, Great Kiskadee, Streaked Flycatcher, Variegated Flycatcher, Tropical Kingbird, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Curl-crested Jay, Black-capped Donacobius, Blue-and-white Swallow, Southern Rough-winged Swallow, Grey-breasted Martin, House Wren, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Pale-breasted Thrush, Rufous-bellied Thrush, Creamy-bellied Thrush, Common Waxbill, House Sparrow, Purple-throated Euphonia, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Variable Oriole, Shiny Cowbird, Chestnut-capped Blackbird, Yellow-rumped Marshbird, Southern Yellowthroat, Golden-crowned Warbler, Orange-headed Tanager, Ruby-crowned Tanager, Sayaca Tanager, Palm Tanager, Burnished-buff Tanager, Blue Dacnis, Saffron Finch, Blue-black Grassquit, Lined Seedeater, White-bellied Seedeater, Double-collared Seedeater, Bananaquit, 

Brazil; Bragança Paulista - Brejão da ETE

  We took the morning away from the local sites around Itatiba to head over to the neighbouring municipality of Bragança Paulista. An area of marsh to the north of the city had been producing some rarer species of Sporophila seedeaters, and we decided to make the short 1-hour journey to see if we could cash in on this opportunity.

  The area was little more than a marshy field with a few small ponds and patches of tussock, but it right from the off it was clearly lively with Grassland Yellow Finch flying all around us, Pampa Finch in the taller grasses and a very smart pair of Streamer-tailed Tyrant showing exceptionally well on the wires next to us.

  We first birded the grasses around the small pond to see if this was the area where the seedeaters were frequenting. Our efforts found a small group of Double-collared Seedeaters and a single male Yellow-bellied Seedeater, the latter being a Sao Paulo tick for me. While nice, these were not the species we were hoping for, so expanded our search to the areas of grass adjacent to the road. It was not long before we found another larger group of Double-collared Seedeaters, and perched up distantly with them was clearly another species. A quick check through the bins, along with a photo confirmed that it was a superb male Tawny-bellied Seedeater, one of the species we were hoping for. Looking at the photos, the bird perched adjacent to this species was a male Black-bellied Seedeater, a Brazilian endemic and the species we were really hoping for during the morning. Unfortunately, they were very tricky and after they dropped from their perches, we could only relocate the male Tawny-bellied Seedeater. We never refound the Black-bellied Seedeater, which was unfortunate as Lia did not see it. Still, we have plans to return in the not-too-distant future, so hopefully we will catch up with it again before they head south to breed.

  As we birded along the road we bumped into another birder, something of a novelty here in Brazil, even in areas popular with birders. With him, we added Pearly-bellied Seedeater and Lined Seedeater to our day-list, and he showed us another area of habitat; a shallow pond surrounded by riverside forest. It took just one look here for me to comment to Lia that it looked perfect for the Clibanornis, Henna-capped Foliage-Gleaner, a sneaky species that I heard two years ago in Brasilia but never manage to see. We played a tape more in hope than expectation, but after about five minutes we heard one responding from the forest. After watching and waiting a little longer we managed to actually spot the bird on the far side of the river perched in the open, and showing exceptionally well for a member of this genus, rounding off a brilliant morning’s birding.

-Brejão da ETE

-Streamer-tailed Tyrant

-Grassland Yellow Finch

-Black-bellied Seedeater (fourth bird down)

-Tawny-bellied Seedeater

-Henna-capped Foliage-Gleaner

Species List:
Bragança Paulista--Brejão da ETE: Small-billed Tinamou, Muscovy Duck, Brazilian Teal, Picazuro Pigeon, Ruddy Ground Dove, White-tipped Dove, Eared Dove, Smooth-billed Ani, Striped Cuckoo, Glittering-bellied Emerald, Swallow-tailed Hummingbird, Blackish Rail, Southern Lapwing, Wattled Jacana, Anhinga, Neotropic Cormorant, Black Vulture, White-tailed Hawk, Burrowing Owl, White Woodpecker, Campo Flicker, Crested Caracara, Yellow-headed Caracara, Aplomado Falcon, Cobalt-rumped Parrotlet, White-eyed Parakeet, Band-tailed Hornero, Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper, Henna-capped Foliage-gleaner, Yellow-chinned Spinetail, Spix's Spinetail, Common Tody-Flycatcher, Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Bran-colored Flycatcher, Masked Water Tyrant, Streamer-tailed Tyrant, Great Kiskadee, Tropical Kingbird, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Black-capped Donacobius, Blue-and-white Swallow, Southern Rough-winged Swallow, Grey-breasted Martin, House Wren, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Pale-breasted Thrush, Purple-throated Euphonia, Grassland Sparrow, Chestnut-capped Blackbird, Yellow-rumped Marshbird, Southern Yellowthroat, Sayaca Tanager, Grassland Yellow Finch, Pampa Finch, Blue-black Grassquit, Lined Seedeater, Pearly-bellied Seedeater, Tawny-bellied Seedeater, Black-bellied Seedeater, Yellow-bellied Seedeater, Double-collared Seedeater, 

Brazil; Santo André - Campo Grande e estrada do Rio Claro

 We are finally, FINALLY, leaving São Paulo but for our final morning before we departed, we made a short trip across the city to the edge of the Serra do Mar national park for some birding. Lia had visited this location before and seen some cool birds, despite it being little more than a dirt road through a patch of Atlantic Forest. We arrive at around 07.30 and it was already getting hot.

We parked in an area of open marshland where before Lia had seen Long-tailed Reed-Finch. Before we have only seen this bird once before, in rainy conditions at Campos do Jordão and they were distant and not approachable. We were in luck today, as they were far better behaved, often showed well and offering excellent views as they sang. In this area there was also an abundance of Southern Yellowthroat, which also showed extremely well.

Satisfied with the birding in this open area we headed into the forest itself. Here it was still very active despite the morning warming up quickly. An Olivaceous Elaenia showed nicely for us. Fawn-breasted Tanager was surprisingly common, with at least five individuals spotted during the morning. There were very showy Eared Pygmy Tyrants, Streak-headed Antwren, and Orange-eyed Thornbird. We also had a very tricky Rufous-tailed Attila. There has only been one previous occasion where I have seen this species, and it was difficult then too, but this time we had the fact that it was mid-morning on our side and so we were able to spot it in the better light conditions.

There was also a lifer for me, one that I was certainly not expecting. Lia picked up a hawk flying distantly but moving away as it soared. It was a strange-looking bird with a large pale head and short tail. Before it fell below the tree line I grabbed a few photos which we were able to use to confirm the species; a Black-collared Hawk. This is a bird more abundant in interior wetland areas, so it was certainly a surprise to spot one out here in the Atlantic Forest. A check of WikiAves found that this is the first record from the Santo Andre municipality where this site is located. 

-Campo Grande e estrada do Rio Claro

-Long-tailed Reed-Finch

-Olivaceous Elaenia

-Rufous-tailed Attila

-Black-collared Hawk

Species List:
Santo André--Campo Grande e estrada do Rio Claro: Dusky-legged Guan, Picazuro Pigeon, Plumbeous Pigeon, Squirrel Cuckoo, White-collared Swift, Black Jacobin, Brazilian Ruby, Glittering-bellied Emerald, Blackish Rail, Rufous-sided Crake, Black Vulture, Turkey Vulture, Black-collared Hawk, Roadside Hawk, Ochre-collared Piculet, Giant Antshrike, Rufous-capped Antshrike, Variable Antshrike, Plain Antvireo, Streak-capped Antwren, White-shouldered Fire-eye, Squamate Antbird, Olivaceous Woodcreeper, Lesser Woodcreeper, Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper, Orange-eyed Thornbird, Pallid Spinetail, Spix's Spinetail, Blue Manakin, Bare-throated Bellbird, White-throated Spadebill, Grey-hooded Flycatcher, Southern Beardless Tyrannulet, Olivaceous Elaenia, Planalto Tyrannulet, Bran-colored Flycatcher, Rufous-tailed Attila, Grey-hooded Attila, Great Kiskadee, Streaked Flycatcher, Tropical Kingbird, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Rufous-crowned Greenlet, Chivi Vireo, Southern Rough-winged Swallow, House Wren, Long-billed Wren, Yellow-legged Thrush, White-necked Thrush, Rufous-bellied Thrush, Southern Yellowthroat, Tropical Parula, Golden-crowned Warbler, Red-crowned Ant Tanager, Ruby-crowned Tanager, Diademed Tanager, Fawn-breasted Tanager, Sayaca Tanager, Red-necked Tanager, Long-tailed Reed Finch, Saffron Finch, Blue-black Grassquit, Double-collared Seedeater, Bananaquit, 

Brazil; Itatiba

We finally got to spend some time away from Sao Paulo at Lia’s parents’ place. The peacefulness of our new environment was in complete contrast to the last few weeks in the city. Although the area is not super birdy, it is still in the Neotropics, so even a walk around the neighborhood can assemble a list of some 80 different species. We also had the option of the small marsh just over the hill, which we were still in the process of exploring.

The first two mornings of our stay we made a visit to the marsh in the hope of finding some rare Sporophila seedeaters, but alas we failed to find any. That said the birding was very enjoyable and we had a number of cool birds, notably on our second day when we had a small mixed group of Plumbeous and Hook-billed Kites fly over. The latter is a species I have still not seen so much of, so it was exciting to see two together flying low. There were also a couple of patch ticks here, including Sepia-capped Flycatcher and Sooty-fronted Spinetail, the latter being a Sao Paulo tick for me. It was just nice to be out birding away from the main city.

We also spent a bit of time birding our usual route around Lia’s neighborhood. Although slightly less birdy than the marsh, there was still plenty of activity to keep us interested. There were a couple more Sao Paulo ticks for me in the form of Stripe-breasted Starthroat and Western Osprey, the latter also being a patch tick for Lia here, which is surprising given the medium-sized lake at the bottom of the hill. 

-Sepia-capped Flycatcher

-Great Egret

-Yellow-rumped Marshbird

-Sooty-fronted Spinetail

-Short-tailed Hawk

-Hook-billed Kite

-Sapphire-spangled Emerald

-Chestnut-capped Blackbird

Species List:
Itatiba area: Brazilian Teal, Picazuro Pigeon, Ruddy Ground Dove, White-tipped Dove, Eared Dove, Guira Cuckoo, Smooth-billed Ani, Striped Cuckoo, Squirrel Cuckoo, Sick's Swift, Black Jacobin, Planalto Hermit, Black-throated Mango, Stripe-throated Starthroat, Glittering-bellied Emerald, Violet-capped Woodnymph, Swallow-tailed Hummingbird, Sapphire-spangled Emerald, Blackish Rail, Slaty-breasted Wood Rail, Common Gallinule, Rufous-sided Crake, Southern Lapwing, Wattled Jacana, Rufescent Tiger Heron, Great Egret, Western Cattle Egret, Striated Heron, Whistling Heron, Green Ibis, Bare-faced Ibis, Black Vulture, Western Osprey, Hook-billed Kite, Plumbeous Kite, Roadside Hawk, Short-tailed Hawk, Ringed Kingfisher, Toco Toucan, Campo Flicker, Red-legged Seriema, Crested Caracara, Yellow-chevroned Parakeet, Cobalt-rumped Parrotlet, White-eyed Parakeet, Barred Antshrike, Narrow-billed Woodcreeper, Band-tailed Hornero, Rufous Hornero, Orange-breasted Thornbird, Spix's Spinetail, Sooty-fronted Spinetail, Sepia-capped Flycatcher, Common Tody-Flycatcher, Yellow-olive Flatbill, Southern Beardless Tyrannulet, Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Large Elaenia, White-crested Tyrannulet, Bran-colored Flycatcher, Yellow-browed Tyrant, Masked Water Tyrant, Short-crested Flycatcher, Cattle Tyrant, Great Kiskadee, Boat-billed Flycatcher, Social Flycatcher, Streaked Flycatcher, Variegated Flycatcher, White-throated Kingbird, Tropical Kingbird, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Black-capped Donacobius, Blue-and-white Swallow, Southern Rough-winged Swallow, Grey-breasted Martin, White-rumped Swallow, House Wren, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Pale-breasted Thrush, Rufous-bellied Thrush, Creamy-bellied Thrush, Common Waxbill, House Sparrow, Hooded Siskin, Purple-throated Euphonia, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Variable Oriole, Shiny Cowbird, Chestnut-capped Blackbird, Yellow-rumped Marshbird, Southern Yellowthroat, Golden-crowned Warbler, Orange-headed Tanager, Ruby-crowned Tanager, Sayaca Tanager, Palm Tanager, Burnished-buff Tanager, Blue Dacnis, Chestnut-vented Conebill, Saffron Finch, Blue-black Grassquit, Double-collared Seedeater, Bananaquit, Capybara, Guianan Squirrel,