Malawi; Day 4 - Dzalanyama Forest Reserve & Malawi College of Forestry and Wildlife

 This was supposed to be another full day in Dzalanyama, but we had already cleaned up on so much, only a few more difficult species remained. Max also woke up feeling unwell, so we only had limited capacity for searching for mixed flocks. We reencountered the flock close to camp that we had seen the previous day, with Steirlings Woodpecker and African Spotted Creeper both still in tow. Since we knew this flock did not contain the species we were looking for, we tried a new area and there found another flock with a few new species. While it did not contain our missing key targets, it did have Reichows Seedeater, plus a few new common species such as Black Cuckooshrike and Grey-headed Bushshrike.

We decided to move on from Dzalanyama at lunchtime, which worked out nicely as we could grab a bite to eat in Lilongwe on the way. We were heading south to Mount Mulanje, a journey of around five hours, but on the way we wanted to stop at small patch of forest where we could look for Vincents Bunting. While we failed to find the bunting, we were pleasantly surprised by the health of the woodland there, and we found many interesting species. Mocking Cliff Chat was new for me, and we found plenty of birds we did not expect, including another African Spotted Creeper and other Miombo species we had seen frequently in our time at Dazalanyama.

Our drive south was long, and the conditions were awful. We had torrential rain which reduced visability to less than 15 meters, but the fog that followed probably reduced it to five. This only cleared after an hour, but did slow our progress down significantly. It was an exhausting drive! 

-Little Spotted Woodpecker

-Striped Pipit

-Retz's Helmetshrike

-Common Waxbill

-Blue Spangled Charaxes

-Whyte's Barbet

-Red-backed Mannikin

-Lanner Falcon

-Bar-throated Apalis

-African Spotted Creeper

Species List:
Dzalanyama Forest: Ring-necked Dove, Lesser Spotted Eagle, Ayres's Hawk-Eagle, Steppe Buzzard, Augur Buzzard, Speckled Mousebird, Green Wood Hoopoe, Pale-billed Hornbill, Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, Little Spotted Woodpecker, Black Cuckooshrike, Black-headed Oriole, Retz's Helmetshrike, Black-backed Puffback, Black-crowned Tchagra, Grey-headed Bushshrike, African Paradise Flycatcher, Souza's Shrike, Green-capped Eremomela, Tawny-flanked Prinia, Neddicky, Southern Yellow White-eye, Kurrichane Thrush, Southern Black Flycatcher, Collared Flycatcher, Miombo Rock Thrush, Eastern Miombo Sunbird, Bronze Mannikin, Common Waxbill, Blue Waxbill, Reichard's Seedeater, Cabanis's Bunting, Golden-breasted Bunting,
Malawi College of Forestry and Wildlife: Red-eyed Dove, Ring-necked Dove, Steppe Buzzard, European Bee-eater, Whyte's Barbet, Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, Lanner Falcon, African Golden Oriole, Black-backed Puffback, Black-crowned Tchagra, Fork-tailed Drongo, White-necked Raven, Bar-throated Apalis, Dark-capped Bulbul, Kurrichane Thrush, Collared Flycatcher, Miombo Rock Thrush, Mocking Cliff Chat, Familiar Chat, Eastern Miombo Sunbird, Bronze Mannikin, Red-backed Mannikin, Striped Pipit, Yellow-fronted Canary, 

Malawi; Day 3 - Dzalanyama Forest Reserve

  Our second day in Dzalanyama started like a rocket. No sooner had we left the campsite than we found a mixed species flock containing two Sterlings Woodpecker, Souzas Shrike and my most wanted bird for the location; African Spotted Creeper. The creeper remained high in the canopy throughout the time we followed the flock, but occasionally showed well. The flock remained in the same area throughout the day and in the evening we had much better views of the African Spotted Creeper.

  Our main target for the day, since its one of the few species which is not only associated with mixed-species flocks, was the Boulder Chat. We had identified a few areas on the satellite images which looked promising, so we headed off in that direction. It was a healthy distance from the campsite, but generally on the way there was limited birdlife, once we had passed the first flock. Fortunately once we arrived in the area, we quickly found a pair of Boulder Chats which showed very nicely, although they were a little erratic for good photos.

  Having completed our primary mission, we slowly meandered back hoping to encounter more flocks along the way. It didn’t take long and we soon found a nice flock containing good targets such as Bohms Flycatcher, White-breasted Cuckooshrike and, for me at least, both Spotted and Collared Flycatchers. Spotted especially was nice to see, given that it is the first species on this trip that I have seen on Soil Hill! We also made a small detour to visit a new area close to camp, and while it did not yield any new mixed flocks, there were a few finches feeding on the streamside grasses, including a stunning Red-throated Twinspot, a rare species we did not expect to encounter.

  After reencountering the first flock on the return, we got back to the campsite late afternoon. After a short break, we had a quick wander around the village in the evening twilight but there was little activity. A few Schalows Turracos were seen, and there was a good-sized flock of African Green Pigeon to enjoy as well. Sadly a storm was looming and this meant we lost the daylight a little earlier than we should have. Not long after dark the heavens opened and any hope of trying for owls was lost. The storm was so vicious that we eventually opted to move into the lodge, rather than drown in our tents!

-African Spotted Creeper

-Stierling's Woodpecker

-Boulder Chat

-Green-backed Honeybird

-White-breasted Cuckooshrike

-Miombo Rock Thrush

-Souza's Shrike

-Bohm's Flycatcher

-Red-throated Twinspot

-Speckled Mousebird

-Common Mother-of-Pearl

-Natal Acraea

-Common Leopard

Species List:
Dzalanyama Forest: Hildebrandt's Spurfowl, Red-eyed Dove, Ring-necked Dove, Emerald-spotted Wood Dove, African Green Pigeon, Schalow's Turaco, Red-chested Cuckoo, White Stork, Lesser Spotted Eagle, Wahlberg's Eagle, African Hawk-Eagle, Common Scimitarbill, Pale-billed Hornbill, Grey-headed Kingfisher, Little Bee-eater, European Bee-eater, Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, Green-backed Honeybird, Cardinal Woodpecker, Stierling's Woodpecker, Little Spotted Woodpecker, White-breasted Cuckooshrike, Black-headed Oriole, Chinspot Batis, White-crested Helmetshrike, Retz's Helmetshrike, Brubru, Black-backed Puffback, Black-crowned Tchagra, Tropical Boubou, Fork-tailed Drongo, African Paradise Flycatcher, Souza's Shrike, Yellow-bellied Hyliota, White-tailed Blue Flycatcher, Rufous-bellied Tit, Green-capped Eremomela, Stierling's Wren-Warbler, Tawny-flanked Prinia, Neddicky, Zitting Cisticola, Black Saw-wing, Dark-capped Bulbul, Southern Yellow White-eye, Arrow-marked Babbler, Kurrichane Thrush, African Dusky Flycatcher, Spotted Flycatcher, Böhm's Flycatcher, Grey Tit-Flycatcher, Southern Black Flycatcher, Collared Flycatcher, Miombo Rock Thrush, Familiar Chat, Boulder Chat, Western Violet-backed Sunbird, Eastern Miombo Sunbird, Spectacled Weaver, Holub's Golden Weaver, Yellow-mantled Widowbird, Bronze Mannikin, Blue Waxbill, Red-throated Twinspot, Striped Pipit, Yellow-fronted Canary, Black-eared Seedeater, Cabanis's Bunting, Golden-breasted Bunting, 

Malawi; Day 2 - Dzalanyama Forest Reserve

  Having arrived battered and exhausted the previous evening, we were not in a rush to get up and go out birding. However, since we were camping, we were awoken by the sunlight before six anyway, giving us the full day to get out birding and exploring.

  The morning started slowly with very little activity, apparently as expected in this forest. The first birds we saw were two Mountain Wagtails, which was a lifer for me, followed by a few new finches and Pale-billed Hornbill, the first species endemic to the Miombo woodland on our trip. While we waited for flocks to form we went to areas of wet grassland in the middle of the forest, which are the place to look for the rare and range-restricted Lesser Seed-Cracker. Sadly we failed to find it in the morning, and with rain looming, we headed back to our campground. On the way we found our first mixed species flock, containing goodies such as Miombo Rock Thrush, Miombo Scrub Robin, Souzas Shrike and Anchietas Sunbirds. All really good species to have connected with on our first morning.

  After lunch we headed out again to look for the Lesser Seed-Cracker. Initially it looked like we would continue to have no success, but after some more searching we actually found one. It perched up briefly, allowing us to get a view of its glorious red head, before it flew off and away. My photos were sadly not in focus, but you get the idea.

  With one of our most important targets wrapped up, we headed off back into the woodland to look for more mixed-species flocks. And we found another two before we headed back for the evening. The first contained our first Retzs Helmetshrikes, Green Wood-Hoopoe and Rufous-bellied Tit. But it was in the second, and last flock that we really struck gold! In addition to more Rufous-bellied Tit and Souzas Shrike, we found our first Steirlings Woodpecker, probably the most important species to find in this reserve, although not many birding groups miss it. We had a female showing nicely, feeding away in the canopy before flying off.

  Two targets down, as well as many other of the regional specialities, our trip was off to a brilliant start. Already late in the afternoon, we headed back to camp for dinner, before we crashed out, going to bed before eight! Simply too exhausted for night-birding, that will no doubt come onto the agenda in the next few days.

-Stierling's Woodpecker

-Pale-billed Hornbill

-Lesser Seedcracker

-Green Wood Hoopoe

-Rufous-bellied Tit

-Anchieta's Sunbird

-Eastern Miombo Sunbird

-Miombo Scrub Robin

-Woodland Pipit

-Retz's Helmetshrike

-Darker Commodore

-Southern Gaudy Commodore

-African Pansy

Species List:
Dzalanyama Forest: Hildebrandt's Spurfowl, Mourning Collared Dove, Red-eyed Dove, Emerald-spotted Wood Dove, African Green Pigeon, Red-chested Cuckoo, Common Swift, Lesser Spotted Eagle, African Hawk-Eagle, Black Kite, Speckled Mousebird, Green Wood Hoopoe, Pale-billed Hornbill, African Pygmy Kingfisher, European Bee-eater, Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, Cardinal Woodpecker, Stierling's Woodpecker, Eurasian Hobby, Black-headed Oriole, Chinspot Batis, White-crested Helmetshrike, Retz's Helmetshrike, Brubru, Black-backed Puffback, Black-crowned Tchagra, Tropical Boubou, Fork-tailed Drongo, African Paradise Flycatcher, Souza's Shrike, Rufous-bellied Tit, Red-capped Crombec, Green-capped Eremomela, Tawny-flanked Prinia, Red-faced Cisticola, Black Saw-wing, Dark-capped Bulbul, Southern Yellow White-eye, Arrow-marked Babbler, African Dusky Flycatcher, Grey Tit-Flycatcher, Southern Black Flycatcher, Miombo Scrub Robin, Collared Flycatcher, Miombo Rock Thrush, Familiar Chat, Anchieta's Sunbird, Amethyst Sunbird, Eastern Miombo Sunbird, Red-headed Weaver, Spectacled Weaver, Yellow-mantled Widowbird, Bronze Mannikin, Common Waxbill, Blue Waxbill, Lesser Seedcracker, Mountain Wagtail, Wood Pipit, Yellow-throated Longclaw, Yellow-fronted Canary, Black-eared Seedeater, Golden-breasted Bunting, 

Malawi; Day 1 - Arrival & travel to Dzalanyama Forest Reserve

  So begins the next adventure, leaving the delights of Brazil for the relative obscurity of Malawi. This small African country had long been on the agenda for a friend of mine, Max Baumgarten, a former colleague from Germany, so when we asked if I was interested I jumped at the chance. African birding is not something I have much experience with, but seeing new species, as well as a healthy dose of Palearctic migrants is something I would never turn down. 

  I left Sao Paulo on the evening of the 26th flying with Ethiopian Airlines to Addis Ababa. I then had to stay overnight in the airport before my flight to Lilongwe in Malawi the following morning. However, this was not a complete loss as I was able to use the time somewhat productively, and when the sun arose in the morning I was able to notch up one of the Ethiopian endemics that live around the airport; White-collared Pigeon. There were also other new pigeons for me with Speckled Pigeon and Dusky Turtle Dove. 

  I eventually arrived in Malawi around midday and once Max had joined me and we had sorted logistics with cash, SIM card and the hire car, it was already mid-afternoon. We started the two-hour drive to our first site, the Dzalanyama Forest Lodge. Unfortunately, we got lost multiple times on the labyrinth of dirt roads required to reach the forest, and it was well after dark by the time we arrived. This was not a complete loss as we had a nice Fiery-necked Nightjar perched on the road near one of the villages we passed through. 

-White-collared Pigeon

-Fiery-necked Nightjar

Species List:
Addis Ababa Airport: Speckled Pigeon, White-collared Pigeon, Dusky Turtle Dove, Black Kite, Pied Crow, Pale Crag Martin,
Dzalanyama Forest: Fiery-necked Nightjar,

Brazil; Unamar

 Since we never stop, once we had wrapped up our time in the south we decided to travel to Rio to visit Lias sister, her husband and her cousin who was over from Germany. We arrived a few days earlier than her cousins however, and this afforded us a little time to go explore, specifically to try and find a species iconic in Brazil and globally; the Golden Lion Tamarin.

This beautiful small monkey is only found in a few forest fragments around Rio, but we never tried to see it the last time we visited the state and deeply regretted it. Since we had the opportunity now, we decided to give it a go in a reserve just north of the town of Cabo Frio, in a small town called Unamar. This fragment is very small, but has a decent population of these monkeys, and seemed to be reliable.

We headed there for early morning, but failed to find any monkeys whilst driving through the forest. We continued until we arrived at the park headquarters, where there were a few guards and management people, who explained there were insufficient staff to take us on the trails, and that now was fruiting season and the Tamarins were largely dispersed throughout the forest. Still we spent and hour or so wandering around the headquarters, where the ongoing work was explained, as was the places where the Tamarins occasionally visited. They had begun to set up a feeding platform for the monkeys, to try and identify individuals to better gauge the population, but this was in its early stages and there was no activity there at the moment.

It was beginning to look like it would be a frustrating morning. But we persisted and decided again to try the road outside the compound. No sooner had we left the compound, but we found three individuals feeding in a tree right next to the road. These included a juvenile, presumably an adult male and another adult, presumably a female. We were able to spend a good hour with these individuals as they foraged in the trees above us. At one point the two adults got into a scrap, but the branch they were on snapped and they both fell a storey in the canopy. Incredible scenes.

In the end they slowly moved off into the forest. They delighted us immensely, and we had brilliant views or this very rare primate! 

-Golden Lion Tamarin

Species List:
Parque Natural Municipal mico-leão-dourado: Rusty-margined Guan, Picazuro Pigeon, Ruddy Ground Dove, White-tipped Dove, Greater Ani, Sick's Swift, Minute Hermit, Magnificent Frigatebird, Black Vulture, Roadside Hawk, White-barred Piculet, Blond-crested Woodpecker, Yellow-headed Caracara, Sooretama Slaty Antshrike, Rufous-margined Antwren, Southern Beardless Tyrannulet, Great Kiskadee, Boat-billed Flycatcher, Piratic Flycatcher, Tropical Kingbird, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Chivi Vireo, House Wren, Purple-throated Euphonia, Red-rumped Cacique, Tropical Parula, Hooded Tanager, Palm Tanager, Bananaquit, 

Brazil; Rio Grande do Sul & Santa Catarina - Day 14

 So we arrived at our final day birding in the south of Brazil. Since we had already worked on all of our targets, with a mixed range of success, we decided to revisit the Porto do Barquinho to try and get better photos and views of the Many-coloured Rush-Tyrant.

In the end, we had a fantastic morning, with around ten different individuals of the Rush Tyrant showing around us, including four in the same place. However, they were quick and erratic, making them difficult to photograph, so we ended with a mixed range of results. Still, it was awesome to see this incredibly plumaged little bird again. In the same place, we found our first Pied-billed Grebe, Rosy-billed Pochard and White-tufted Grebe of the trip, the latter also being a new species for my Brazil list.

After an early lunch in the town we set off back to Porto Alegre, where we would stay the night before our flight the following day. The journey was long and not particularly interesting, but we did have flyovers of both Magnificent Frigatebird and Long-winged Harrier, which brought out trip to an end in a very pleasing way! 

Species List:
Porto do Barquinho: White-faced Whistling Duck, Fulvous Whistling Duck, Coscoroba Swan, Brazilian Teal, Silver Teal, Rosy-billed Pochard, White-tufted Grebe, Pied-billed Grebe, Great Grebe, Picui Ground Dove, White-tipped Dove, Eared Dove, Common Gallinule, White-winged Coot, Limpkin, White-backed Stilt, American Oystercatcher, American Golden Plover, Southern Lapwing, Pectoral Sandpiper, Pantanal Snipe, Lesser Yellowlegs, Brown-hooded Gull, Snowy-crowned Tern, Maguari Stork, Wood Stork, Neotropic Cormorant, Cocoi Heron, Great Egret, Snowy Egret, Western Cattle Egret, Black-crowned Night Heron, White-faced Ibis, Bare-faced Ibis, Roseate Spoonbill, Black Vulture, Snail Kite, Green-barred Woodpecker, Campo Flicker, Crested Caracara, Common Miner, Rufous Hornero, Wren-like Rushbird, Firewood-gatherer, Yellow-chinned Spinetail, Many-colored Rush Tyrant, Small-billed Elaenia, Spectacled Tyrant, Yellow-browed Tyrant, White Monjita, Cattle Tyrant, Great Kiskadee, Tropical Kingbird, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Blue-and-white Swallow, Brown-chested Martin, White-rumped Swallow, Sand Martin, Barn Swallow, House Wren, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Rufous-bellied Thrush, House Sparrow, Yellowish Pipit, Purple-throated Euphonia, Hooded Siskin, Rufous-collared Sparrow, White-browed Blackbird, Yellow-winged Blackbird, Chestnut-capped Blackbird, Red-crested Cardinal, Saffron Finch, Grassland Yellow Finch,