Oceanwide Day 17; South Atlantic - South Georgia to Ushuaia

   The morning brought poor weather and more back and forth movement up and down the entrance of the Beagle Channel. With the required pilot not reaching us until midday, we had to kill the morning and consequently there was not much to report in terms of sightings. The poor weather did not help on this front, with strong winds and rain keeping us mostly indoors. Just before lunch there were several whale blows not far away from the boat, but we could not manage to see the animals making it very frustrating. 

  Fortunately, the afternoon was much better, with a stunning show from a pod of Peale’s Dolphin just after lunch. They were right in front of the boat and readily going under the prow. On two occasions we got to see an animal completely breach, it was probably the best dolphin encounter of the whole trip. Not long after the dolphins departed, we had a sudden appearance of a Sei Whale about 100 metres off the boat, giving us a clear view of the whole animal. However, the encounter was so quick that I failed to get a photo. 

  The main journey up the Beagle Channel was badly hampered by bad weather and we saw very little. A small group of Magellanic Penguins sat in the water and some Snowy Sheathbills distantly on a rock in the middle of the channel. 

  We finally docked in Ushuaia at 21:30, bringing to an end our enjoyable but also undeniably disappointing cruise around the South Atlantic, minus Antarctica. A few of us headed to the Irish bar in Ushuaia for a few celebratory drinks, and enjoyed an excellent night out. I returned to our lodging on the ship for the final time at 02:30 in the morning, before disembarkation in the morning. 

Oceanwide Day 16; South Atlantic - South Georgia to Ushuaia

   After two slow days at sea, today finally got interesting. Now within the sheltered waters of the mouth of the Beagle Channel there was good numbers of birds again, albeit mostly common species. Before lunch we had a few more Great Shearwaters, including an individual very close to the boat, and had some head scratching to do with some passing black and white shearwater species. Although we initially thought they were Subantarctic Shearwaters, the more we saw the more we began to think they were Manx Shearwaters, and that was our final decision. An unexpected surprise was a Least Seedsnipe that flew over the boat, a rarity out in the Atlantic and an excellent record for our trip.

  The highlight of the day also came in the period before lunch. After a few days without cetacean action, it really came back with a bang. We had a group of possibly up to eight, but certainly at least six Hourglass Dolphins playing in front of the boat for around 10 minutes. We rushed down to the bow and were able to watch them swimming right beneath us and surfacing frequently. We have seen Hourglass Dolphin four times on this trip when travelling at full speed, and they showed no interest in the boat. But as we trundled along at 6mph, the boat suddenly became of great interest!

  Because we arrived at the Beagle Channel earlier than expected, we had to kill most of the day going back and forth over about two kilometer distance, significantly reducing our chances of a new encounter. After lunch there was a lull in activity, so much so that I headed back to do my notes. A classic error, as about half an hour later a pod of dolphins was announced on the tannoy. Fortunately I made it outside in time, to get views of three Dusky Dolphins swimming behind the ship, although not close. 

  In the evening we returned to the deck and enjoyed a very pleasant evening. It started with some distant Peale’s Dolphins leaping into the air, followed by them bow-riding a large tanker ship. From there, we also spotted several distant whale-blows. We enjoyed watching the whale blows, but spotting the animals themselves proved very tricky. In about an hour we spotted the whale itself on just a couple of occasions, always very distant but enough to identify the animals of Sei Whales. 

  After this, we returned inside for dinner, and afterwards we enjoyed a fun karaoke evening with the cruise staff and participants, a fun end to our final full day on the Plancius.

-Hourglass Dolphins

Oceanwide Day 15; South Atlantic - South Georgia to Ushuaia

   Today we continued to make progress on our return to Argentina, and by evening we were within sight of the outermost of the islands of Tierra del Fuego. On the mammal front there was no improvement from the previous day, with a whale blow being the only sighting but sadly no sign of the animal at all.

  Fortunately the birding improved somewhat. Before lunch it continued in much the same vein as the previous day, with very little seen but I persisted regardless. Immediately after lunch things picked up, with a Northern Royal Albatross circling the ship before heading north being the first of the trip. During the afternoon we encountered many Southern Royal Albatross and by the late afternoon I had even managed a new species, with a distant Great Shearwater flying past the ship, albeit rather distantly. Additionally we had a group of 10 Macaroni Penguins sat on the sea, probably the last time we will encounter the species on the trip.

  By nightfall we were well within sight of our final destination, leaving us with the daunting prospect of needing to complete 3 hours of distance in a day and a half, setting us up for a very slow day in the morning.

Oceanwide Day 14; South Atlantic - South Georgia to Ushuaia

   Today really was a slow day as we continued across the ocean towards Ushuaia. Birds were quite slim pickings, with a few Snowy Albatross the only species of note that we realty observed. Cetaceans were at even more of a premium, with a single unidentified dolphin fin being the only sighting. For the excitement of entering new waterways on our unexpected return to Ushuaia, it has so far only compounded the rather disappointing end to our adventure. 

Oceanwide Day 13; South Atlantic - South Georgia to Ushuaia

   It was another day at sea as we dragged our broken ship onwards on its journey back to Argentina. Because of this there was little to break down in turn of events that occurred during the day, but there were a few rewards for the effort we put in on the deck.

  During the morning there was nothing especially different. Two Hourglass Dolphins passed just under the front of the ship, but they never surfaced, we just saw their patterned bodies moving under the waves. The birding was spectacular but only in terms of numbers, with hundreds and hundreds of Slender-billed Prions circling the boat throughout the morning.

  In the afternoon the wind picked up, and the ship started rocking, but there came many more birds in these fresher conditions. It started with the Light-mantled Albatross showing phenomenally around the ship, with occasionally additional Grey-headed Albatrosses and at one point a nice juvenile Snowy Albatross. In one half hour period we spotted eight Soft-plumage Petrels passing distantly, which was an exciting addition to our afternoon and to our cruise overall. Sadly none were ever particularly close but we could readily identify them through their contrasting underside.

  As evening rolled around the conditions continued to deteriorate, with the ship rocking significantly throughout the evening. There would be no spectacular late whale encounter today.

Oceanwide Day 12; South Atlantic - South Georgia to Ushuaia

   The weather today was nice and clear, with a few snow flurries reducing visibility but otherwise cool and crisp conditions to be on deck. Sadly, the improvement of the weather was matched by abosultely devastating news that a technical malfunction within the ship meant that it was no longer possible to make the voyage to Antarctica, and the crew had been instructed to turn back to Ushuaia immediately. This was obviously a devastating development, but the lack of clarity surrounding any compensation amplified the concern of the situation, but fortunately it was resolved rather favourably later in the day. But as a consequence of this development we now faced several days at sea as the ship slowly made its way back to port, hoping for no adverse weather to further delay our arrival. 

  Among the chaos of the day, there were a few seabirds on offer. Most of the selection was the usual species, with two Kerguelen Petrel being the most interesting species of the day. It was also good to sea both King Penguin and Macaroni Penguin from the boat, as the swam in the open sea.

  The real highlights of the day were the cetaceans, specifically the first sighting. Sheltering from the wind, we birded from the back of the ship when two fins appeared in front of us. They were not large whales, and in the immediate moments there was some confusion as to what we were looking at. But fortunately, the head and blowhole were soon visible and we realized we were looking at two Southern Bottlenose Whales. My first beaked whale, and a fantastic species to encounter. Our second encounter was a pod of three distant Hourglass Dolphins, but we saw little apart from the animals fins, so it was not a particularly exciting encounter. 

  After an emotional rollercoaster of a day, the seastate at sunset was flat calm, almost like a millpond, quite bizzare to witness. We hoped for a whale to emerge in the superb conditions but sadly it did not happen. That was the case until I was already in bed, when a call came over the tannoy of whales outside. I threw on some clothes and dashed onto deck, just in time to see a group of at least six Southern Bottlenose Whales regularly surfacing at the back of the ship. Even in the dull light their beaked whale profile was well observed! 

Oceanwide Day 11; South Georgia - Gold Harbour & Drygalski Fjord

  We had a busy morning for our final day on South Georgia. The plan was to visit the beach at Gold Harbour before breakfast, followed by a zodiac cruise around Cooper Bay and then head southwards towards Antarctica. But best laid plans can never fully account for the weather, and it played another significant part in how the day transpired. 

  The morning at Gold Harbour saw us wake up at 05:30, and be onshore by 06:00 in very snowy conditions. Towards the end of our 90 minutes on the beach the snow began to fall even harder, with it settling and covering all over the beach. The many King Penguins did not seem to mind too much, and they were certainly the highlight of the morning. It was quite special to see them in these different conditions, even it did cost us the views of the landscape. A Brown Skua tugging at Jonah’s trousers and trying to catch snowflakes was probably the other highlight.

  The trip to Cooper Bay was not as successful, and the swell there meant that we could not safely board the zodiacs. We still managed to observe the colonies of Macaroni Penguins and our first Chinstrap Penguins from the main ship, but it was not as intimate as would have been nice. As compensation we took the ship up the Drygalski Fjord not far from the bay to see the hanging glaciers which were very spectacular. The birding was highlighted by excellent numbers of Snow Petrels, sometimes flying incredibly close to us on the ship. At the end of the channel we also saw our first Weddel Seals hauled out here.

  The rest of the day was spent on deck as we took the ship south as we began our voyage to Antarctica. This was probably the birdiest stretch of water for the entire trip, with excellent numbers of commoner species and even good numbers of species such as Snow Petrel and Blue Petrel. An unexpected Grey-rumped Storm Petrel was one of the bonus birds we encountered, as were the four Kerguelen Petrels we saw. The first was very distant, but with each new individual the sighting came closer and the final two were very easy to identify, despite not being especially close. It was a very enjoyable afternoon, with other goodies including four species of Albatross and some Macaroni Penguins in the open sea. 

  On the cetacean front, it was good to finally get back to the action after two blank days. There was not a huge number of encounters, and even the one encounter we were actually identify was very brief, but it was still enough to confirm that it was two Fin Whales, quite close to the ship but not surfaced long enough to get good photos. 

  The evening was highlighted by a rather stunning sunset, our first sighting of the sun for almost a week. Next days will be spent at sea before we reach the continent of Antarctica.  

-King Penguin

-Southern Elephant Seal

Oceanwide Day 10; South Georgia - St Andrews Bay & Godthul

   It was another day of low cloud and snowfall on South Georgia, but fortunately there was no wind and very limited swell, which meant that our planned itinerary could proceed without issue. 

  And what an itinerary it promised to be, with the highlight being the morning visit to St Andrews bay, the largest King Penguin colony on the island with an estimated 250,000 birds at its peak. That said, this year the number was estimated at between 150 – 170,000 and I estimated around 100,000 in total. But it was still by far one of the greatest wildlife spectacles I have ever witnessed. There were penguins everywhere, but the staff had planned a route up to a small hill overlooking the main colony, and when you looked down upon the scene below you, it was truly overwhelming. The noise especially was really something, the sounds of thousands of penguins filling your ears. There were several comedic moments, including chicks charging around and crashing into adults and the squabbles of the parents. Truly one of the most incredible places I have ever been.

  The penguins were everything here, but there were other birds as well. Nothing notable, but it was very nice to see a Brown Skua chick, which was truly delightful. I finally got a good view of a white form of the Southern Giant Petrel, with one sat on the beach among the usual shades of grey and other Northern Giant Petrels. 

  In the afternoon we visited the bay of Godthul, where the staff offered a few options. There was a high up to a mountain overlooking the bay, a short stroll looking at the Gentoo Penguin colony, although it involved a steep climb through tough tussock grass, or a zodiac cruise. I opted for the second option, which meant more relaxed birding and enjoying the penguins.

  It is a good thing I did take this option, as I had the most incredible views of South Georgia Pintail and a single South Georgia Pipit. Both species showed exceptionally well, the Pintail especially were very confiding. The solitary pipit individual was not as confiding but was confidently feeding out in the open for much of the time we were there, sometimes less than a couple of metres away. An excellent performance, giving walk away views. 

  The Gentoo Penguins here were the main draw and we spent some time watching their antics. There were several ages of chicks, ranging from very small to medium sized chicks. We got to see them being fed by the adults, while the adults also ran around stealing nest material from each other. It was brilliant to watch, like an Attenborough documentary on display right in front of us.

  At 18:30 we were back on the ship, ready for our dinner and a debrief, after another incredible day on South Georgia. 

Oceanwide Day 9; South Georgia - Hercules Bay, Fortuna Bay & Grykonen

   After yesterdays relentless issues trying to land on South Georgia, today we managed to squeeze in three different excursions, enjoying the very best of what this spectacular island had to offer. Whilst the persistent fog refused to fully budge, the overall situation had improved but we had now an issue with persistent snowfall which had covered the island in a blanket of white, and continued to fall throughout the morning. 

  Our first excursion was a before breakfast zodiac ride around Hercules Bay. This bay had very steep sides, which despite not being able to see the tops of the mountains was made spectacular by the snowfall. The choice of location was for a colony of Macaroni Penguins in the tussock grass here, but where birds sat out on the open where they could be viewed from the boats. We saw a hundred or so individuals, although the swell of the zodiac made viewing a little tricky. In addition, there were a few King Penguins also sheltering in the bay.

  We returned for breakfast at 07:00 and then made our way around the corner to Fortuna Bay, one of the most spectacular sites on our itinerary. On the way we passed some amazing icebergs and stunning glaciers, made all the more atmospheric thanks to the fog and snowfall. The bay here has a King Penguin colony of some 20,000 birds, and it was indeed quite the site to witness. The whole vista was a little much to take in, such was the volume of birds on show. 

  I spent an hour with the King Penguins, but for the final hour of the excursion I fully focused on location a South Georgia Pipit. Maddeningly, one had been seen by the first team onshore, but when I passed the area it was crowded and there was no sign. Nevertheless, with most people now at the Penguin colony, I returned to the location and after an anxious wait, during which time I entertained myself with the South Georgia Pintails, I finally got distant views of the Pipit on the rock face. 

  Fortunately, the bird then descended into the tussocks and was soon feeding right in front of us, just a couple of meters away. At one point it even made its way on to the beach, but its time here was too fleeting for good photos. After making me sweat, in the end I had walkaway views of the species. Although not a particularly striking bird to look at, its status as the worlds most southerly passerine made it my most wanted species for the trip.

  With the relief of the Pipit under the belt, I was able to relax a bit more. We made our obligatory visit to the Grykonen whaling station, where the government of the island is based. There was no wildlife to see here, instead visiting to Shackleton’s grave and the island museum. It was an interesting afternoon, full of history. However, there is always wildlife, and we enjoyed quite a show from the Antarctic Fur Seal and Southern Elephant Seals present around the shore, with one of the Elephant Seal pups rolling of a small cliff being a particular highlight. 

  I returned to the ship at 18:15 after a long day, and after my notes spent the evening relaxing. Or that was the plan, but the crew had planned a BBQ for the enitre ship, so the evening was spent drinking, dancing and chatting with the staff. It was an excellent way to round out an excellent day.

Oceanwide Day 8; South Georgia - Possession Bay

   For whatever reason, our arrival to South Georgia was delayed from our original schedule. The plan had been to arrive before breakfast, then complete two activites; one before lunch and one after lunch. However, we did not reach the island until 10:30, and the weather began to play a bigger part in our trip, with the wind now preventing our landing at Right Whale Bay, the first destination. 

  Unpeterbed we headed round to Salisbury Plain, but the wind here also prevented our landing. The weather generally was very unfavourable, with strong wings, snow and sleet  and the persistent fog that had haunted our last few days at sea. Despite this, we could at least see the spectacular King Penguin colony on Salisbury Plain, even if we could not land to walk among them. 

  Despite this, the morning was still enjoyable and watching from the ship did bring its rewards. First I finally saw my first Blue Petrel, with one around the ship early morning. This species would be seen on and off throughout the day. Even better was the first Snow Petrel of the trip, but these sadly did not get encountered very often, with one early morning, one midday and two in the evening. The other birding highlight was a squad of 16 Snowy Sheathbill that landed on our ship when we approached Salisbury Plain. They continued to linger on the ship until dark, whilst ship hands tried desperately to scare them off, always in vain. It was very funny to watch.

  We also had our daily cetacean encounter to keep the streak going for another day. The morning was very liverly with Humpack Whales, with probably 10 individuals seen before breakfast. This incredible start fizzled out somewhat but at lunchtime we had phenomenal views of a Humback Whale breaching next to the ship, several times!

  At 16:30 we finally were able to land on South Georgia, at Possession Bay. Although not as spectacular as the other sites, it was still a great place to land. There were hundreds of Fur Seals on the beach, as well as a few King Penguins and Gentoo Penguins as well, although not in massive numbers. Although the pipit eluded us here, the South Georgia Pintail, for now considered a race of Yellow-billed Pintail, was present and we got very nice views as they swam between bathing Southern Elephant Seals.

  At dusk we lingered on deck to try see Orca as we left the bay, but we saw nothing on that front. The sea was alive with birds however, as hundreds of Prions headed to the island to their breeding colony. There were other species mingled among them, including the aforementioned Snow Petrels and another couple of Blue Petrels. An excellent way to round out an otherwise very mixed day.

Oceanwide Day 7; South Atlantic - Falkland Islands to South Georgia

   Fortunately the fog from the previous evening had lifted for the morning, although it returned with a cengance during the afternoon. That did mean though that the morning was quite enjoyable. Birding was limited to the same species as the previous day, with no particular highlight species but enjoyable views of many Antarctic Prions and Black-bellied Storm Petrel. It was only with the retrospect of photos that I was able to add a new species today, with two Fairy Prions circling around the ship at quite close quarters. We also encountered our first King Penguins of this trip today, with several individuals in the water around the ship. 

  The cetaceans on the other hand were excellent today. We had a mandatory briefing regarding biosecurity in the morning, and during this briefing we spotted the fins of dolphins out the window. While frustrating, we later learned that the animals had been Peales Dolphins, which was probably the species we were least concerned about. 

  After the briefing the activity really kicked off. At first we had an Antarctic Minkie Whale swimming close to the ship, but because it was porpoising it was wildy unpredictable. Each time it appeared it had moved closer to the ship and even passed right under it, appearing on the other side. This was another new whale for our trip, and the next was littlerally a minute away when a group of three Humback Whales appaeared in front of the ship. They passed by incredibly close, and we even got to see them spy-hopping. 

  About half an hour later we encountered another group of Humpbacks, these ones even close. The nearest animal breached right next to the boat, whilst Jonah and I were stood on the prow of the ship, allowing for absolutely unbelievable views of the animal! 

  The afternoon brought fog and tough conditions. Despite our best efforts, everyone eventually gave up. I enjoyed a nap and a shower, before a relaxed evening of sorting my notes and photos in preparation for reaching South Georgia tomorrow.  

Oceanwide Day 6; South Atlantic - Falkland Islands to South Georgia

   Today was a full day at sea as we sailed from the Falkland Islands to South Georgia. Sadly this meant that all of the birding had to be done on the deck of our ship, and the conditions were not particularly helpful thanks to a fog that reduced visibility throughout the day. There were also periods of rainfall, and the colder weather meant that generally being on deck was not a particularly pleasant experience, but we endured none the less.

  The birding throughout the day was slow, but with a few highlights that kept the spirits high. The morning was probably the birdiest part of the day, with a couple of Snowy Albatross hanging around the ship, and our first Black-bellied Storm Petrels although we would seem more throughout the day. Sadly I tried to sneak in a shower during this first part of the day and consequently missed a Blue Petrel and a Soft-plumaged Petrel. 

  After breakfast the slow birding continued, but bits of interest continued to appear. A few Grey-rumped Storm Petrels were nice, given that we expected to leave this species behind at the Falkland Islands. Another new species was Light-mantled Albatross, and we had two individuals hanging around the ship for some time, giving a phenomenal performance. Our only cetacean of the day came during this period, with a nice close Fin Whale appearing but sadly only surfacing once. 

  Once lunch had finished the will to continue really began to be tested. There were points during the afternoon when I really considered heading inside, but in those moments something occurred to raised the spriits. The first was two Macaroni Penguins not far from the boat. But the second was the real highlight, when I picked up an Atlantic Petrel off the Starboard side of the ship. I recognized it immediately, despite it being a rare bird, and was able to stay with it as it passed despite being at distance. Our afternoon was nicely rounded out by a close flyby from a South Georgia Diving Petrel, once I had checked in the book. The fog finally closed in around 17:00, driving us inside. 

  We managed half an hour after dinner once the fog had lifted, but it had only lifted thanks to some heavy rain. This addition time yielded nothing new, and we did not take too much convincing to call it a day at that point. 

Oceanwide Day 5; Falkland Islands - Stanley

   On the birding front it was a much quieter day today, as we would spend the day at the Falkland capital of Stanley, before setting out to the open ocean after lunch. I was aware that this would represent my last chance to see the Comersons Dolphin, and so was excited when we moved into the natural harbour of Stanley to see a dolphin following the shoreline. However, it turned out to be a Peale’s Dolphin, although it was curious to observe the animal swimming on its back whilst tail slapping! My first time seeing such a behavior.

  Fortunately I did not have to wait long to relieve the Comersons Dolphin issue, as whilst waiting for the zodiacs to take us in to Stanley, I spotted two bow-riding on an approaching launch. The launch subseqnetly docked at our ship and I was able to look down on the two animals swimming below me. Throughout the morning these Commersons Dolphins were around, accompanying us whilst we were on the zodiacs and also swimming in the harbour when we boarded. It was quite the encounter for a species I thought we might miss. 

  The birding in Stanley was much the same as other Falkland sites, with Falkland Steamer Duck and Kelp Goose on the shoreline, and the usual assortment of passerines on the land. The only additions were a Variable Hawk and a the House Sparrows singing from every garden. We returned to the ship at 12:30, had lunch and then headed out to the open sea.

  The sea started well, with hundreds of birds feeding as we departed the Falkland Islands, including a rarity in the form of an Arctic Tern. But once we had passed the assortment of feeding seanirds, the sea quietened down significantly. There were a few highlights, including two Grey-rumped Storm-Petrel and our first Grey-headed Albatross, but otherwise it was limited.

  Cetacean activity was not bad in the grand scheme of things, but it was quite frustrating. A pod of at least three Peales Dolphins made an appearance just out from the Falkland Islands, but they did not linger. Out at sea we had at least four whales, with blows observed not even that distant, but for whatever reason the animals themselves stayed low in the water and even through photos they were difficult to see. They were ultimately left as whale unidentified. 

  There was a thick sea fret that moved in later afternoon, and once the briefing and dinner were complete, it was too dark to do any more watching. So we settled in to relax in preparation for our full day at sea tomorrow. 

Oceanwide Day 4; Falkland Islands - Barren Island & George Island

   It was quite the bumpy overnight ride on the ship, and I regularly found myself awake as the ship crashed through the waves, so I wasn’t in much of a rush to wake up in the morning, instead waiting for the morning announcement before getting out of bed. That was around 07:00, and after that and a short breakfast we commenced with the days agenda. 

  The morning would be spent visiting the aptly named Barren Island on the south side of the Falklands. This was an island not visited by even most of the staff, so it was exciting to explore. On the seabird front the highlights were breeding Gentoo Penguins and a few Magellanic Penguins as well, plus Southern Giant Petrels, which were also enjoying feeding on a dead and well rotten Sei Whale that had washed up in the harbour. 

  On the island itself there were a few nice birds to hunt for. Cobbs Wren was a possibility here but we never found one. The Blackish Cincloides was very common, and very tame, allowing for enhanced views after yesterdays briefer encounter. The White-bridled Finch was common here, although not particularly confiding it has to be noted. Only at the end was able to get close enough for good shots. And there were several confiding Two-banded Plovers, allowing for my best views of the species.

  In addition to the birds there was also a small colony of South American Sea Lions, and on the beach were our first Southern Elephant Seals, although they did not do a great deal while we were there. Obviously the birds took priority but these were still nice to see. We returned to the main ship around midday, and took our lunch and a short break before heading out for the afternoon.

  Our afternoon destination was the very close George Island, a private sheep farm that we were lucky to have been able to arrange access to. This island also had Cobbs Wren, with a pair apparently nesting at the farmhouse, and so that became the afternoon priority. Despite this, it still took a good 40 minutes to find an individual around the farmhouse, and the bird could not be approached due to the high interest it generated among punters. Fortunately, we were also able to explore an area of tussock and in here there was another Cobbs Wren that showed fantastically well.

  With the wren now seen, my only outstanding species for the Falklands for the Rufous-chested Dotterel, and on the wild terrain of George Island we managed to find two, although always distant. The birding here was very enjoyable, with only a handful of Magellanic Penguins but plenty of the Falkland races of terrestrial species, including more confiding Tussockbirds, and offshore there was a nice group of four White-tufted Grebes. 

  At night we sailed around the south side of the Falklands to reach the port of Stanley in the morning. This route took us past Sealion Island which apparently has a resident pod of Orca but sadly we did not encounter them. It was not a complete loss on the cetacean front however, as we did see two distant Sei Whales, identifiable by their obvious fin. A very pleasant way to end an excellent day.

Oceanwide Day 3; Falkland Islands - New Island

   We arrived at the Falklands early in the morning, on the western edge of the islands ready for our first visit to one of the subantarctic islands. The island of choice was New Island, on which we visited two different areas but both with a different assortment of seabirds. The winds were strong but the skies were largely cloudless meaning it was quire pleasant conditions to be outside in, at least once the bumpy zodiac rides, necessary to reach the islands, had been completed.

  The first area we visited was in the centre of the island. The main attractions was the seabird colony above the cliffs on the west side, with impressive numbers of King Shags, Black-browed Albatross and the highlights being the Southern Rockhopper Penguins. It was great to see the penguins jumping along the rocks and trying to get out of what was very stormy seas. In addition, in one of the Rockhopper Penguins nesting areas there was also our first Macaroni Penguin of the trip, and although it did not show close it was still nice to see in comparison to the smaller Rockhoppers. There were also our first Snowy Sheathbills of the trip, but they were always distant. Less distant were our first Brown Skuas, which showed very nicely as they picked off eggs from careless nesting birds. 

  Away from the seabirds there were a few terrestrial species to track down here. The first of these was the Blackish Cinclodes, the Falkland race affectionately known as the Tussockbird. They were apparently not common on this island but one did make a couple of appearances near the seabird colony. Straited Caracara and Ruddy Headed Goose were two more new species for me today, but that were expected on the Falklands, as well as a couple of Falkland Steamer Ducks in our landing bay. 

  After lunch we headed round to an area on the north side of the island. Our journey across on the Zodiacs saw us encounter a few Peale’s Dolphins, but they did not show well. In the bay round the north area of our trails we had better more continued views of these dolphins, but thye never seemed to want to breach making identification a long process. 

  The main seabirds here were another colony of Black-browed Albatross, with three species of Penguin; Gentoo being the most common, followed by Magellanic and then a few Southern Rockhoppers thrown in to the Albatross colony. Most of our time was spent with the Gentoo Penguins as there was a constant conveyorbelt os birds coming and going from the sea to the colony. It was good to see them porpoising as they approached the beach as well as another group sheltering their small chicks in the windy conditions. 

  Other good birds here included more and better views of Snowy Sheathbill, Brown Skua and Falkland Steamer Duck. Striated Caracara was also extremely confiding here, with one dozy individual being extremely approachable as it sheltered below a small rocky outcrop. There were no new birds here, but since the only Kelp Geese I had seen before were distant, the group feeding at close quarters on the beach were much appreciated.

  We returned to the ship at 18:00 and after dinner spent the evening oin the deck enjoying the stunning evening light. The boat trip as we rounded the island was very bumpy, and there were some spectacular crashes as the ship plowed through the waves. The seabird action was however, quite limited with only the same species as yesterday seen. At 21:00 I headed inside to write my notes and then went to bed. 

Oceanwide Day 2; South Atlantic - Beagle Channel to Falkland Islands

   Eager to begin our adventure, we awoke at 05:00 and headed onto deck to try and catch up with as many birds and mammals as we could during the day. The passage for the day was the stretch of the South Atlantic between the Beagle Channel and the Falkland Islands. The first hours before breakfast were very enjoyable, with good numbers of seabirds moving around, mostly Sooty Sheatwaters and a good number of Wilson’s Storm Petrels, my first. A few Slender-billed Prions were also thrown into the mix, but these were distant during the morning and good views were only managed later in the day. 

  After breakfast the day took a rather unfortunate turn when said breakfast made a rather sudden reappearance into the toilet basin. Over the next hours I continued to vomit a further four times, and ultimately went to the boat doctor for some medication. In the end he decided I was vomiting too much to take a tablet and so had to be injected. After this I was sick only once more before I crashed into bed and slept on and off for the next two hours.

  After lunch, during which I ate little but was able to keep down, the day improved significantly. I had missed a few Fin Whales during my morning sickness which was frustrating, and although I saw a few blows from putative Fin Whales, I never saw the actual animal. A dolphin under the water added to this cetacean frustration, but fortunately this was soon about to change.

  During the second half of the afternoon there were a handful of good cetacean encounters. First was when two Peale’s Dolphins started bow riding the ship, righting underneath where we were standing. Following shortly after this there was a group of my most wanted Hourglass Dolphins, with four individuals at the back of the ship but sadly not hanging around for long. About an hour later three more Hourglass Dolphins appeared next to the sun but didn’t stick around, and finally two Blue Whales swam past the ship before dinner. The latter I almost missed being inside for a drink, only catching them as they got progressively more distant. 

  Birds continued around the ship all day although never as many as during the first hours. A few Southern Royal Albatross made flybys, among the many commoner Black-browed Albatross. Aditionally species to our trip list inciuded Cape Petrel and Common Diving Petrel, and around dusk we picked out two Grey-rumped Storm Petrels, one of the species we wanted for this leg of the trip. 

  By 21:00 it was already getting gloomy, so we headed into the cabin to refresh, and me to recover after a long but thoroughly enjoyable day. 

Argentina Day 8/Oceanwide Cruise Day 1; Ushuaia & Beagle Channel

   Today was mostly a logistical day as we prepared to embark on our voyage to Antarctica and the other subantarctic islands at the bottom of the Atlantic Ocean. We dropped our bags off mid-morning and then spent most of the rest of the day killing time around Ushuaia. That was until 15:30 when we headed to the dock to complete the procedure and get onboard the ship. Our ship to the Antarctic was called the Plancius, operated by OceanWide. Whilst a respected polar cruise company within its own right, this company also has a good friend of mine, Simon Davies, from Spurn, on its books and he had arranged to be one of the guides on our tour. 

  Once the various breifings were completed we set off down the Beagle Channel at 18:00, although a good portion of the evening was taken up by more briefings and introductions. However, once they were complete we steaked out the deck in order to try and get our first seabird action. Simon informed us that this would be our best chance of catching up with the Magellanic Diving Petrel, and after an hour of feverish scanning before dusk we managed to pick up three different individuals. In addition we had our first Magellanic Penguins with several in the water, and a frustrating encounter with a single dolphin that surfaced twice below the boat but then never reappeared, and in the half light it was impossible to identify. 

  By 10:00, although still not completely dark, the light had faded enough to send us below deck where we settled in for our first night on the ship.

Argentina Day 7; Martial Glacier & Estancia Tunel

   For our final day in the Ushuaia area we spent the morning on the Martial Glacier and the afternoon exploring for the Magellanic Woodpecker. The weather was not on our side for the first hours of the morning, with heavy rain taking us back down the mountain before the glacier hike had even opened. However after a couple of hours back in Ushuaia the weather cleared and we reascended the mountain ready to hike the trails. 

  Despite the weather clearing we still had to endure some windy conditions and even a short burst of heavy snowfall. It was still worth the hike however, with some stunning scenery both looking at the mountain in front of us and down the valley to Ushuaia behind us. The area we could explore had been wrapped up by 13:00 so we decended back to the city for lunch, before continuing with the day. Birding was slow up on the trails, but it was nice to see a few Yellow-bridled Finch again, as well as a flyby Andean Condor. 

  For the afternoon, and the last hours with the car, we headed north of Ushuaia to an area of forest where I hoped to finally settle the score with the Magellanic Woodpecker. The wind had not subsided but once we were away from the coast and more in the forest it was much improved. Despite this, it still took over an hour before we managed to finally find a Woodpecker, when a female flew onto a nearby tree. Shortly after she was joined by the male, and we had phenomenal walk away  views of the birds, my last major target in the area.

  After this we returned the car to the airport and settled in to our hostal, getting ready for the big day tomorrow, when we would embark on our ship down to Antarctia. 

Argentina & Chile Day 6; Porvenir, Reserva Natural Pinguino Rei & Rio Grande

   Our second day in Chile started with a return to the Porvenir headland to try find the dolphins again, but once again we struck out with nothing being observed. There was a nice and confiding Short-billed Miner on the clifftop so that got some photos taken, but otherwise it was a short stop and then onwards.

  It was a two hour drive to the King Penguin colony, the only one on the mainland and the only one in Chile. We anticipated that the birds would be distant and have to view only with optics, but in the end they were only about 20 metres away on the other side of a small channel. We got some great looks at the birds including an attempted copulation. In the end we could only stay an hour due to the way the site is managed, but it was a worthwhile visit.

   In addition to the penguins, there were a few other birds to enjoy. Three Chiloe Wigeon landed on the side of the path and I had the first Correndera Pipits of this trip. Otherwise it was the usual species from this southern region of the Patagonian desert. When we returned to the park office there was also a young mouse hopping about, which we were told was an Olivaceous Field Mouse. It did not look well, so it wasn’t a happy sight. 

  The drive back to Ushuaia then consumed the rest of the day, taking the best part of five hours with the various stops for fuel. Fortunately the return border crossing was very smooth, taking very little time at all. We arrived in Ushuaia at 18:00 and relaxed for the rest of the evening.

Argentina & Chile Day 5; Porvenir

   It was simultaneously a very eventful and very uneventful day out in Chile today. We set off early, at 06:00, in order to be at the border nice and early, only to discover that it would not open until 08:00. Since we arrived at 07:00 this left us at a loose end for an hour, either waiting in the queue or maybe driving down the beach road to see if anything was around. We opted for the latter and were rewarded with finding Double-banded Plover and Small-billed Miner. 

  It took an hour to cross the border due to the cars building up during the early hours, and the various stations required to get the vehicle through. That said, it passed by without too much incident, and we were soon on our way. This is when we discovered the King Penguin colony we wanted to visit was in fact closed on Mondays (we had originally planned on visiting on a Sunday in the original itinerary) and this meant that our rushed day trying to complete everything we wanted in Chile and returning before the border closed, suddenly became much more relaxed. We did decide to stay in Chile for the night and then see the Penguins in the morning. 

  As such we continued driving on the road to Porvenir where there were a few things to see. We started by checking out a spot I had marked for Peales Dolphin being regularly seen on the coast, but there was nothing doing despite an hour moving up and down the coast. But it was a relief to find my first Patagonian Yellow Finches here, as well as having excellent views of Double-banded Plover and Bairds Sandpiper.

  With no sign of the dolphins, we continued to the next destination, the Laguna Verde which I had marked for Magellanic Plover. We spent about an hour searching along the beach, seeing many Guanacos and a Culpeo, as well as a few birds, but no sign of the plover. In the end we were exploring the wrong area of the beach, and not long after we started searching the right area Jonah spotted once nestled among a flock of Bairds Sandpipers. With some crawling I was able to get some very nice views of one of my most wanted birds for the trip. Smaller than I was expecting, but all the sweeter for it.

  After another unsuccessful trip to try for the dolphins, we found a hostel in town and crashed to relax, after a pleasant, if not rather logistically challenged, day.

Argentina Day 4; Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego, Garribaldi Pass & Rio Grande

   We started the morning at the Tierra del Fuego National Park, where we had hoped to have another chance at the Magellanic Woodpecker. However, after a bollocking from the park staff for being off the trail and for having a speak on display, not even in use, I opted not to try any playback. We birded the area at the end of the road and here we had a few nice Fuegian Steamer Ducks at last and a distant Kelp Goose, as well as a few seabirds and a flyover Andean Condor. Not a bad morning in the end given the circumstances, and it got better again as we were leaving, when Jonah spotted a sleeping Bronze-winged Duck in a roadside pond. Sadly it was distant and never awoke despite our best efforts, but still great to see this potentially tricky species. 

  At 11:00 we changed the car to one which could cross the border into Chile, which we wanted to do for a day. With this we set off up the road through the Andes towards the border and the towns beyond. Originally our plan was to make it to Chile tonight, but since the weather through our drive was very pleasant, we instead opted to attempt the hike at Garribaldi Pass to find the tricky White-bellied Seedsnipe. 

  There is no trail up the mountain, but it was not bad walking. There were some scree slopes at the top but with care we managed to navigate them. The problem was finding the Seedsnipe, and after two hours we had no sign. That said, it was not a disappointing walk, with incredible views of Yellow-bridled Finch that almost landed on my foot, and flyovers of both Andean Condor and White-bellied Caracara.

  As we were walking back however, anticipating another hike to try the Seedsnipe again, one of the birds moved on the rocks in front of me as I walked. It was quite the relief. The bird showed very very well, allowing us to maouver, around and get great photos and views of the surprisingly nice plumage. A victory from the jaws of defeat.

  After that there was only enough time to reach the city of Rio Grande, so that was where we crashed at night, ready for a day out in Chile tomorrow. 

Argentina Day 3; Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego & Ushuaia

     For the first day in Ushuaia we had something of a delayed start, as we had to collect the car from the airport at 08:00. It was only a half hour walk from our hotel, and along the beach, so we took that route there and along the way saw a few interesting birds, like Austral Negrito and a life tick with Buff-winged Cinclodes. 

  Once we had the car, we headed for the Tierra del Fuego National Park. Since it was already 09:00 and it was Saturday we anticipated the park to busy but fortunately it was not, although it picked up by the time we left at 14:00. We decided to walk the eight kilometre trail along the side of a lake to the Chilean border, which was through excellent forest.  

  There were a few nice birds that I had not seen for some time, such as incredible views of Thorny-tailed Rayadito and Patagonian Sierra Finch. But it was frustrating that on two occasions we heard a Magellanic Woodpecker but never got anything on the bird itself, never responding to the limited playback I had and only calling once on each occasion.

  Upon leaving the park we drove across town to the local dump, where I had information indicating that it was a good place to see the White-throated Caracara. And this paid off, with around five individuals knocking around the area, albeit looking rather scruffy. A bigger surprise perhaps was a Chilean Skua that was also bombing around the throngs of gulls causing chaos. 

  In the afternoon we walked downtown in Ushuaia. The town was busy it being a Saturday, but there were still a few nice birds to see. There is a lake in the area and here we had lots of Dolphin Gulls, Crested Ducks and Flying Steamer Ducks. Out on the seaward side of the harbour there were several Giant Petrels feeding away on the edge of the harbour, which was great to see up close! 

Argentina Day 1; Buenos Aires

   I left Asuncion early in the morning on a small flight to Buenos Aires. The plane was only small and was almost empty, so it was quite a pleasant flight in the end. This was as I moved to Argentina to begin the next phase of this extended trip. Once arrived, I checked in to the hotel and after a short rest tried to bird a park nearby, my very reason for choosing a hotel in this section of the city. Sadly thanks to an approaching storm, I was informed that the park was closed. And with that, I had to return to the hotel room and spend the afternoon organizing photos from Paraguay. 

Paraguay Day 27; Asuncion

   For our final morning birding in Paraguay we took a taxi across Asuncion to bird a small area of wetland on the edge of the river. Here there were a few interesting records of good species, but sadly we were unable to find any of the key targets. We had a new bird in Black Skimmer, and also our final new bird as we were leaving the site with Golden Green Woodpecker. But sadly the site was very disappointing with far more recorded than we were able to find.

  For the rest of the day we packed and prepared for the next stage of our respective adventures. We did spend a couple of hours in the Asuncion downtown but there was not too much to see and after a bite to eat we returned to the hotel. 

Paraguay Day 26; Arroyos y Esteros & Asuncion

   We had a very enjoyable morning birding the grasslands near the town of Arroyos y Esteros. The start was nice and early, so we had chance to drive to the Juan de Mena road just in time for first light. As expected the morning acitivity was very good, but within a few hours the day had gotten warm and the acitivty had died down. In those few hours we managed to find almost all of our main targets!

  It started a little slowly, but within half an hour I managed to find the most important species, the Strange-tailed Tyrant, with a male performing in the road, even sitting on the tarmac. Sadly it was not especially approachable, and that proved to be the case of the other 11 individuals that we found during the morning, with only a female showing nicely for photos.

   In addition, we had a very nice performance from at least four Crested Doraditos, including a single male. Another Ibera Seedeater put in an appearance, but it did not show especially well. Additionally, we saw Scarlet-headed Blackbird, Unicolored Blackbird, a late Spectacled Tyrant and a host of other nice wetland birds. It was extremely enjoyable.

  Once it got hot, we made a short stop at the area I had birded on the first day, where we found Tawny-bellied Seedeater again, as well as another Ibera Seedeater, but the day was already getting hot and so we headed back to Asuncion.

  Once in Asuncion we sorted out some logistics, and spent the afternoon get ourselves sorted. Sadly we did have to pay a parking fine after our car was clamped for apparently parking in the wrong location, but otherwise all went smoothly. One more day to go in Paraguay! 

Paraguay Day 25; PRO COSARA, Moises Bertoni & Arroyos y Esteros

   For our final morning at PRO COSARA we returned to the short stretch of road through the forest that we had visited the previous morning, to do a short walk before we departed. This turned into a very productive decision, with a few more species seen and activity quite good after the previous days storm. 

  We started with brief but acceptable views of an Atlantic Black-throated Trogon, which flew across the road before being coaxed back. The highlight species of the morning was a female Purple-crowned Plovercrest, but it was brief and always on the move, hardly the encounter we were looking for. Finally we added Buff-browed Foliage-Gleaner to our trip lists, although it took some effort to find the bird as it sat still.

  After this we departed, at around 09:30. We were cautious about the state of the road due to the previous days rainfall, but we managed to drive the 10 kilometres of dirt road back to tarmac without too much issue. However, the 10 kilometres to our midday destination, the grasslands of Moises Bertoni was a different story. This road was in a shocking state and it was quite scary at times that we might get stuck, compounded on the return journey by rainfall. But we managed it without too many issues. 

  The birding at Moises Bertoni was not bad, but in the end we missed our main target the Cock-tailed Tyrant, although we were able to find the other main target with Ochre-breasted Pipit. Sadly our views were limited to a single flyover and a distant displaying individual, despite hearing song frequently. The best of the rest was a nice but distant Sharp-tailed Grass-Tyrant.

  And with that we completed the rest of the day driving, finishing in the small town of Arroyos y Esteros close to Asuncion, from where we would be birding in the morning. 

Paraguay Day 24; PRO COSARA

   With another full day at PRO COSARA we hoped to rack up a good species total and improve our overall trip list with a few good speices. For the first part of the morning Adolpho, the Paraguayan birder remained with us, before he left at around 08:30 when the sky started to look suspiciously dark and he was afraid his bike might not make the road. Before he left he showed us where to find the Blackish Rail at the site, but sadly they would not come out of the reeds despite calling seemingly very close.

  We continued birding and decided to visit the short stretch of road that passes through the forest to the east of the Estancia, where we had found the previous evenings owls. Despite the windy weather we managed a few good species, including Olive Spinetail which was a very good target to find and Spixs Spinetail which was my 400^th species in Paraguay. A flyover Rufous-thighed Hawk was another nice addition to our trip.

  After birding there we returned to the estancia and spent the rest of the morning birding the short trail in the forest just to the south of the Estancia. This was a lively forest and we added Plain-winged Woodcreeper to our Paraguayan lists, but most other species were common. There was an enjoyable performance from a Ferruginous Pygmy Owl and a small group of Hooded Capuchins passed by.

  In the afternoon we decided to walk the medium length trail but about halfway through it became clear that the weather was about to turn in some style. Despite rushing back we only just made it before the heavens well and truly opened. It knocked out the power, and WiFi, leaving us in the dark with little to do but try smash the mosquitos also taking refuge here. It goes without saying that thanks to this storm, it was an early night! 

Paraguay Day 23; Kanguery & PRO COSARA

   We had planned to spend two nights at Kanguery field station, but the weather promised to turn later in the day, and the mosquito conditions were almost unbearable at times, plus there was no sign of our elusive remaining target species, so we decided to leave early afternoon.

  During the morning we had an hour checking the grassland areas in the hope that we might encounter one of the grassland birds that we were missing but sadly not. A Grass Wren was the best of it. Fortunately when we returned at the end of the morning we added Sharp-tailed Grass-Tyrant and Long-tailed Reed Finch to our achieved target total from the site. 

  In between we headed into the forest trails adjacent to the camp. The mosquitos in here were almost unbearable and the birding was not especially lively. The best I managed in three hours was a nice male Chestnut-headed Tanager, a single Plain Xenops and a pair of Blue Manakin. Otherwise it was just wandering the trails to try located rarer species without success.

  In the afternoon we returned to PRO COSARA for the afternoon to continue birding there. The forests were quiet during the afternoon, with only a long overdue Gilded Sapphire added to our lists. There was a Paraguay birder also staying at the Estancia, Adolpho, and he gave us some good information about where to locate our remaining target species. 

Paraguay Day 22; PRO COSARA & Kanguery

   We spent the morning birding around the PRO COSARA reserve, this time completing the long trail in rather sunny as opposed to yesterdays overcast conditions. This meant good acitivty early on but slower in the later sections of our walk. We still enjoyed the trail however, and we made it back to the Estancia just after midday.

  The trail was quite lively with a similar assortment of species to the previous day. We saw Spot-backed Antshrike which we had only heard the previous day, but sadly added Sharpbill to our list of heard only birds. The highlight of the morning was a pair of Blackish Blue Seedeaters, which were a new species for me and one that I had greatly hoped to encounter in this reserve. The male especially was extremely showy, and I got fantastic views of him as he moved around the bamboo. Other good birds that were new included Red-breasted Toucan briefly flying over and a showy pair of Rufous Gnateaters. 

  After lunch at the Estancia we headed off on the drive to Kanguery Biological Station in another area of the National Park. Here it is more grassy and there are a few different species to search for. Because of the previous rains we were a bit nervous about this drive, but in the end it took just under two hours to complete although we had to spend some time clearing vegetation out of the road.

  Once at the field station, once the formalities had been completed, we set off out birding. A team of researchers were also staying at the station, studying the Saffron-cowled Blackbird, so they took us out to the area where they were catching them. Here this rare species was plentiful and we had great views. In the end we decided not to stay and watch the ringing, but to continue exploring which was very successful with Lesser Grass Finch and both Dark-throated and Rufous-rumped Seedeater all seen. However it was not all straightforward, as I lost my speaker whilst walking through the grass.

  The researchers finished their work at 18:00 so guided us around the grasslands a little bit, first to a small pool where there were three Masked Ducks swimming, including two males. After nightfall we tried to find Giant Snipe in an area where we were taken to, and although there was no sign of the snipe, we had nice flyby views of a female Sickle-winged Nightjar. Sadly we never saw it landed and the mosquitos here were somewhat overwhelming, so we soon beat a retreat, returning to camp to recover and relax. 

Paraguay Day 21; PRO COSARA

  Our first day at the PRO COSARA reserve was a tense one, as we waited to see if the rain from the previous day would linger into today and alter not just our birding, but our wider itinerary. It was overwhelming with joy to see not a single drop of rain all day, allowing us to continue to bird without fear and live in hope that we might yet be able to complete our itinerary as it was originally planned!

  There are a few options for trains at PRO COSARA, but we started with the main seven kilometre trail hoping that it would deliver the Atlantic Forest performance that we had missed at Mbaracayu. And on that front it did not disappoint, with ample birds recorded throughout the morning. Many species were heard only, but we still were able to add a good number to our overall trip list.

  The only downside was a Variegated Antpitta, calling deep inside a bamboo thicket. We spent about 40 minutes trying to work out a way to see the bird, but never managed to set eyes on it despite being close. Not a complete loss as we saw Grey-bellied Spinetail and Dusky-tailed Antbird at the same location but still frustrating. Along the trail itself before we needed to go off-piste, we had a few Chestnut-headed Tanagers, a species I have only seen once before, some nice Drab Pygmy-Tyrants and White-rimmed Warblers and just overall enjoyable birding.

  In the afternoon, after a midday lunch and a half hour nap, we set off again this time trying another trail around the lake in the middle of the forest. This was obviously quieter being an afternoon, but we finally saw a Tufted Antshrike, as well as adding White-spotted Woodpecker to our lists. The Antpitta pain was not over, as we heard a distant Speckle-breasted Antpitta in another bamboo area, but this one was too deep to really try to find.

  A short loop trail completed our days birding, but the only thing we really added here was a family party of Rusty-margined Guans. On the walk back we heard another Pavonine Cuckoo, but it never came out and since the access was not good we did not try especially hard. A brilliant way to start out birding at the San Rafael National Park. 

Paraguay Day 20; Mbaracayu, Abai & PRO COSARA

   With most of the forest off limites due to the guerilla presence, our capacity for exploration at Mbaracayu was seriously limited to the extent that we decided to cut short our stay by a day and instead to another, hopefully more productive, Atlantic Forest location. This meant that we had this final morning to try track down our outstanding species, a list which was not offensively long but that did contain the most important target; the Helmeted Woodpecker.

  We started our morning by walking the entrance road, which was quite productive and we managed to avenge yesterdays Saffron Toucanet shenangians with a nice pair of two birds perched openly in the canopy, giving excellent views. Once again we heard the Spot-winged Wood Quail in the same location, but they refused to move in order to be seen.

  Next we moved back to the trail and spent the remainder of our time exploring there for a final time. O           nce again we were able to add a few new birds, with a smart Green-and-rufous Kingfisher on the river, a smart encounter with a Scale-throated Hermit and a heard only encounter once again with Tufted Antshrike, as the bird adamantly refused to come out of the bamboo thicket it was calling from.

  At 09:00 we departed, with a long drive ahead of us to the San Rafael National Park, with a couple of hours detour to try and twitch an Azure Gallinule that had been reported in the week earlier. The drive took another turn when the heavens opened not long after, and they continued to hammer it down for a few hours. Even in the afternoon the rain persisted, although not with the same force.

  The site for the Azure Gallinule was a little to the east of the main highway, but a bird like that we decided to make the trip over to try and see it. We arrived and only had an hour in order to try and locate the bird before we needed to leave. A juvenile bird that flushed looked promising, but we were not sure how to separate it from the similar Purple Gallinule of which there were several. Fortunately, we soon flushed an adult, and then another adult in the same area as the juvenile! Three Azure Gallinules!

  In the same area, despite only being a short visit, we had several other good birds, including my first Dark-throated Seedeater, with a very nice male. We had a few Pearly-breasted Seedeaters as well, which were a nice trip tick.

  But at 16:00 we had to move in order to complete the drive to the PROCOSARA centre in San Rafael. The drive was long and the last 10 kilometres were all on dirt road, which had turned into a slippery mess thanks to the rain. It was a challenge but we made it at 21:00, ready for a nights rest before continuing with the Atlantic Forest birding 

Paraguay Day 19; Mbaracayu

   Our full day in Mbaracayu was really quite slow in the grand scheme of things. With most of the forest off-limits due to the presence of Guerillas, we had to stick close to the lodge area which limited our capacity to explore properly. In order to expand our range a little we hired the Mbaracayu bird guide, Sixto, who was able to take us a little further into the forest although not as much as we would have liked.

  The morning started with little activity, but we had our first target respond when we had a Riverbank Warbler pair on the side of the forest river. But the highlight of the trail was a fantastic display by a Bare-faced Bellbird, perched high in the canopy but doing a full performance whilst we watched. The rest of the morning was fairly uneventful, with a frustrating Saffron Toucanet not showing at all for me, despite flying over three times. A nice Surucoa Trogon rounded out the morning.

  After lunch and a nap now that we had moved into a room instead of camping, we set off out again. The trail delivered a little more with a Spot-billed Toucanet and a lek of White-bearded Manakins, although no males were present. A Buff-bellied Puffbird was also a nice addition to our site list. We tried hard for several other species but had no joy to speak of. We continued into the evening walking along the entrance road, and we heard some Spot-winged Wood Quail but never managed to see them and the forest was too thick to venture in. A nice Azaras Agouti was a good mammal to see. 

Paraguay Day 18; Mbaracayu

 Today the morning was something of a write off, since we had lodged in a Hospedaje near the Rancho Blanca and it was three hours drive until we reached the Reserva Natural Mbaracayu, our location for the next few days and our first interaction with the Atlantic Forest on this trip. The drive was long and some stretches passed through terrible dirt roads, but in the end we arrive at around 09:30, allowing just a little time for morning birding.

  Our visit started incredibly well, as we passed through the entrance gate to the lodge area itself, I picked up the call of a Pavonine Cuckoo and we immediately jumped out and sprung into action. The bird was responsive to playback, but was extremely reluctant to perch in the open. There was just one occasion when it sat out in the open, and we got very nice views indeed.

  There is only one trail to walk without a guide here, so we spent the rest of the morning on that. There were a few Atlantic Forest species that we picked up here, such as White-shouldered Fire-eye and Rufous-capped Spinetail, as well as heard only Bare-throated Bellbird, the acoustic backdrop to our entire day in Mbaracayu. After lunch and a nap we also birded along this trail and we added Rufous-margined Antwren, White-eyed Foliage-Gleaner and Yellow-fronted Woodpecker.

  For the rest of the afternoon we birded along the entrance road again and had another great encounter when an Eared Pygmy Tyrant came and sat out in the open right next to us, completely of its own accord. The rest of the walk saw us add Crested Becard but little else. We returned to the lodge early evening to relax and recover from the last few days. A Bat Falcon flying around overhead was an unexpected addition to our trip! 

  We tried to search for some night birds along the main road, but we had not got far before we were found by park security forces and marched back to camp. The presence of guerrilas in the forest has complicated our visit to the area. For all this trouble, we only saw a Tropical Screech Owl.

Paraguay Day 17; Estancia Arrecife & Rancho Blanca

   Today was the day we left Estancia Arrecife and headed eastwards. We started at 05:30 and slowly birded our way back to the highway, stopping at various wetland sites along the way in the hopes of picking up some new species. We did, but they were all common birds such as Yellow-rumped Marshbird, Yellow-bellied Elaenia and Olivaceous Woodcreeper. The highlights were a nice pair of Streamer-tailed Tyrants displaying, two Black-throated Saltators and a Rufescent Tiger Heron stood in the road.

  Once we had rejoined the main road, the day was almost entirely consumed by the driving, with very little seen on the way. Our first destination was the Laguna Blanca, a site which we had tried to arrange without success, but Carolina had managed. Unfortunately this turned out to be too good to be true, and the Laguna Blanca Ecolodge did not have permission to allow us on to the Rancho Blanca property.

  This was a disappointing setback, and I was ready to once again give up on accessing the site, but fortunately Max was a man possessed, so we drove up to the gate of the farm and found someone to talk to who eventually passed us on to someone else, and they gave us the go ahead on a strictly unofficial basis to spend the afternoon in the site.

  The afternoon did not start well, with the sandy soils causing chaos with the car, and not being 100% sure where best to bird, but we eventually cracked it and spent a good three hours of daylight in excellent Cerrado habitat. It was fairly quiet for the most part but we still saw goodies like White-rumped Tanager, Shrike-like Tanager and a brief Plumbeous Seedeater.

  But the real star of Rancho Blanca is the White-winged Nightjar, and so we had to stay after dark to hopefully find one. Fortunately, no sooner had darkness fallen than we picked up an individual. We followed it to its perch and found a smart female sitting there. As we photographed here the stunning white wings of a male flew past us but we never found him sitting. We were only able to find one more bird during the evening, a young male also perched atop of a termite mound, showing very well. We could have continued longer, but the circumstances of our entry, the fact we had nowhere to stay yet and the rarity of the bird led to us deciding to withdraw after this second encounter. We were truly extactic that this bird we seemed destined to miss out on had been seen, and seen well! 

Paraguay Day 16; Estanica Arrecife

   For our second full day in Estancia Arrecife we had a slightly delayed start whilst we hoped the Hyacinth Macaw that lives near the Estancia might make a visit. But in cloudy and cool conditions there was no sign. And so with that we set off out with Matias the Hyacinth Macaw researcher to check out some areas for the Bare-faced Currasow that we had failed to find the previous day.

  The first location we checked was a forest fragment in the middle of an area of pasture. This plan produced several sightings of interested but sadly not the Currasow. We had an excellent performance from at least two but probably more White-throated Piping Guans, and in canopy we spotted at least two Black-and-gold Howler Monkeys. But in this fragment the highlight was an unexpected Red-ruffed Fruitcrow, a completely unexpected species that I really had not anticipated in such a small fragment. 

  From here we continued to the River Apa where we had birded the previous day. By the time we arrived it was already mid-morning and there was limited bird activity. Still, we enjoyed some nice sightings of a pair of Undulated Tinamou and two Hooded Capuchin Monkeys in the canopy. But otherwise it was fairly quiet and there was a still no sign of any Currasows. 

  After lunch we continued exploring with Matias, and after completing some chores we explored the area of the farm known as Oculta, where he had recently seen a Chaco Eagle. Sadly we did not have the same luck, but we had a few nice species including our first Giant Cowbirds of the trip and a feeding trough full of Nanday Parakeets.

  The highlights of the afternoon both came very quickly, with a pair of Red-and-green Macaws that flew right by the car, before landing just out of sight, and when we moved to try locate them a female Bare-faced Currasow dropped out of the tree! We first moved in on the Macaws which were perched very nicely before trying to relocate the Curassow. Sadly only I was able to get more views of the Curassow, although I did have it sat out in the open for a good 30 seconds before it departed! 

  By the time we returned to the Estancia it was already 18:30, so we settled down for a more relaxed evening. 

Paraguay Day 15; Estancia Arrecife

  Our first day in Estancia Arrecife started with somewhat of a misunderstanding of the plan for the day. We awoke and thought that we were going to see the Hyacith Macaws but with no sign of Carolina, our guide, we set off by ourselves to the Apa River on the northern edge of the property to do some exploring. Before we set off we saw one Hyacinth Macaw which was an individual from the pair around the Estancia. Sadly it was not perched for long, but it was good to see one so early into our day.

  Our journey to the river passed through some farmland but also some gallery forest where we found a few birds. A White-throated Piping Guan perched up in the canopy was a good species to see, a target for our time here, and we also saw Chestnut-bellied Seed Finch and Black-throated Saltator.

  Our walk in the forest along the river was pleasant and we had a wide range of species but most of them were common. Along the river there were two Capped Herons and a few commoner species, but in the forest here there was very little,  a Pale-crested Woodpecker the best of it. There was another trail deeper in the forest and here we saw more birds, including goodies like White-throated Spadebill, Sibiliant Syrestes and the white-bellied form of Golden-crowned Warbler. Here I also had a new bird with flocks of Blaze-winged Parakeet feeding above the trail. In addition we found two more Hooded Capuchin.

  After this, at around 10:30, we returned and took the afternoon off until 15:00 when we decided to set off to go and look at the Macaws. On the way we searched for Chaco Eagle without success, but did have brief views of a Jaguraundi as it ran away. Once at the Macaws, we were also introduced to an orphaned baby Giant Anteater, which was very sweet but eaqually sad to see.

  There are only five known Hyacith Macaw individuals left in Paraguay, with possibly a few others also in the area. This site hosts the only pair with a chick, and so we got to look at the birds from afar as they sat atop the nest box and flew around just once. They were spectacular birds. In addition, one of last years chicks which was rescued during a period of poor weather and is unfortunately quite habituated was around, and showing very nicely within touching distance.

  Also in this area were a few pairs of Red-and-green Macaw, but we never got to see them perched up. Otherwise it was the same species complexion as other areas of the site, which were obviously still enjoyable. On the drive back it was nearly dark, and we had a Tapir run away from the road, and a Nacunda Nighthawk fly over the car. 

Paraguay Day 14; Concepcion & Estancia Arrecife

   For our final morning in the Concepcion area we birded a patch of forest just north of the national park. On paper the satellite the site looked interesting, but in reality the birding was quite slow, with limited activity and mostly common species on offer. The best birds we were able to find were a Fuscous Flycatcher and our first Falvescent Warbler of the trip.

  We returned mid-morning to our hotel, since at around midday we would meet with our guide and the team for the next few days, where we would travel north to the Estancia Arrecife, a site home to the last Hyacinth Macaws in all of Paraguay. At 13:00 we met up and then drove the four hours north. The first stretch of the road was all on the highway, with the last 50 kilometres passing along a dirt road of excellent condition that went through some incredible looking forest habitat.

  It was a shame that it was not possible to bird along the road, but even in passing we had some nice sightings with our first White-eared Puffbird and Black-throated Saltator of the trip. The undoubted highlight however was a pair of Nine-banded Armadillos that were fighting in the middle of the road, before one took refuge under our car!

  Once we arrived at the Estancia we had to change a tyre on the other teams car, but we had some light to do a little birding. We added Red-legged Seriema to our trip list, and had excellent views of Nanday Parakeets sat on the roadside fences. The amount of cattle was quite staggering, but the rare birds here continue in the expanses of forest that infringe onto the land.

Tomorrow we will begin our exploration of the area. 

Paraguay Day 13; Paso Horqueta-Santa Lucia

   We had a full day in the Concepcion area, and so had planned on how best to spend this largely underbirded area. The plans took a bit of a hit with a serious thunderstorm overnight, that did not stop until 08:00 and then continued in fits and starts until 10:00. 

  Having looked at our options, it was decided that we would explore the habitat around the small village of Paso Horqueta-Santa Lucia about 45 minutes drive north of Concepcion. Here there was a river and some nice gallery forest, with a few records of interesting species.

  The first of these interesting species was Pied Plover, which is always a stunning bird to see. No sooner had we parked up and started scanning the beaches did we find three of these attrative birds. They were not especially approachable, but we got some excellent views and some nice photos of this rare bird in Paraguay. 

  For the next 90 minutes we birded this area and had several interesting sightings. Both Large-billed Tern and Yellow-billed Tern were seen on the river, although our views of the latter were far superior to the former. In the bushes we had a pair of Rusty-margined Flycatcher, another rare bird in Paraguay but one we knew could be here. And a female Band-tailed Manakin was an unexpected bonus.

  After this we drove south to another beach adjacent to the village and here continued to have an enjoyable time. We found two Blue-crowned Trogon and flushed a pair of Blue Ground Dove. With playback we were able to gain Chestnut-capped Foliage-Gleaner although it was on the far side of the river. Given the species’ capacity to be reclusive, I did not know if we would get the chance to see it or just hear it, but fortunately the bird showed well on an exposed perch.

  Early afternoon we moved to a patch of Gallery Forest about 10 minutes driver north. A dirt road passes through the woodland and we were curious what birds we might find there. Birds were not abundant, and a Rufous-crowned Motmot that was singing refused to show, but two Hooded Capuchins were there. Seeing them here felt much more wild than the birds in the Botanical Gardens in Asuncion.

  We decided to return to Concepcion after this, finally arriving back at 16:00 once we had completed some necessary tasks. After a successful days birding we settled in for a relaxed evening! 

Paraguay Day 12; Fortin Toledo & Concepcion

   This would be our final morning in the Chaco before we headed off into the east of the country to explore some different habitats. The morning we had hoped would give us glorious light for photography, but sadly there was cloud that obscured the sunrise and we did not get the light we had hoped for.

  Still there was an enjoyable walk around Fortin Toledo to be had, and we saw a few nice bits. Stranecks Tyrannulet was a new species for our trip, although it did not show well at all. We had a lot of fun trying to photograph the Many-coloured Chaco Finches that were around, and on that front we largely succeeded. A Skunk that we found in the roadside grass was the best of our mammal encounters.

  At 10:00 we set off from Fortin Toledo, driving to the town of Concepcion, which we finally reached at 15:30. After checking in to our hotel, we decided to head south of the town to the Estero Milagro National Park, or at leas the section of it that was accessible from the 22 highway.

  In the end we found a dirt road heading east from the highway that provided us access to the patchwork of grazing areas and gallery forest. For the most part the birding involved common species, but we had a nice encounter with a pair of Black-crowned Tityra and a pair of Buff-bellied Puffbird was an unexpected surprise. We heard several Small-billed Tinamou but none came to the tape, and a pair of Streamer-tailed Tyrants was very enjoyable. On the mammal front, we had a Crab-eating Fox cross the path in front of us.

  We finished up birding at dark and headed back to Concepcion for a rest and relax in the evening. 

Paraguay Day 11; Agua Dulche & Fortin Toledo

   We had another go at driving the road west of Agua Dulche this morning, and once again had a very enjoyable time, despite the few drops of rain that fell. It was more enjoyable for Max no doubt, who had brief views of a Jaguar that I missed despite being stood next to him, but birding highlights of Upland Sandpiper and a pair of brief Green-cheeked Parakeet kept our trip list ticking over.

  At 09:30 we found ourselves back at the Agua Dulche roundabout and decided to make haste and return to Filadelfia where we could have some nice comforts and be better positioned for the next phase of our journey. The road south was long, taking six hours in total thanks to the horrendous dust thrown up by moving trucks, which made the route incredibly dangerous at times. Still we made it, and had a good drive in the end with a showy Lesser Grison at the side of the road and a pair of Green-cheeked Parakeets showing well in the roadside vegetation.

  Once back in Filadelfia we struck for Fortin Toledo again, since our accommodation had been so nice. We had no reservation so turned up hoping for the best and fortunately were able to arrange to stay the night. We spent the evening enjoying the sunny garden with a pair of Brushland Tinamou strolling around the vegetables.  

Paraguay Day 10; Agua Dulche

   We awoke at 04:30 and set off on our morning drive not long after, hoping to encounter something on the road before sunrise. It was a fairly uneventful drive with a few Tapete seen and a couple of Crab-eating Fox before light broke. Fortunately the standout mammal of the morning came an hour after sunrise, when we spotted a distant Jaguarundi slowly crossing the road ahead of us. Although distant, it was my third cat of the trip!

  The birding itself was not bad either, with a couple of migrant species in Alder Flycatcher and a Yellow-billed Cuckoo that crossed the road in front of our car. Lined Seedeater was new for the trip, although it did not show particularly well, and it was nice to see another Pale-crested Woodpecker here.

  At 10:00 we returned to the room as the day warmed up to see out the heat. After a nap and some lunch we went for a short drive on the road north of the village but the habitat was quite disturbed. That said, we still had a few nice birds, most notably the first Black-banded Woodcreeper of the trip, only my second ever. It was in the same tree as a Great Rufous Woodcreeper, allowing for a nice comparison between the two species.

  At the end of the afternoon we drove a few kilometres on the road heading east out of town but saw nothing new and after an hour we turned around and went back to the productive road heading west along the north edge of the national park. Once again the evening proved reasonably productive, although there were no new birds and mammals were limited to the usual Chaco Mara and guinea pigs.

  That was until 30 kilometres down the road, when it was almost dark, and we heard the commotion from the roadside vegetation which could only mean monkeys. After peering through the vegetation as best we could, we finally set eyes on at least three Pale Titi Monkeys, one of the parks most iconic mammal species and a worthy reward for our efforts today. The commotion that attracted us to them turned out to be a Great Horned Owl that had landed in the tree, and once it moved off the animals fell silent.

  The night drive was decent but unspectacular. We had brief views of a Tapir before it entered the vegetation and we had great views of three Crab-eating Foxes and two Tapete but otherwise quite limited. A Rufous Nightjar sat on the side of the road was a nice surprise after regularly hearing the species but not yet getting proper views of one. We returned to base at 21:30 and after doing my notes, went straight to sleep 

Paraguay Day 9; Cerro Leon & Agua Dulche

  We awoke early and set off to Cerro Leon again for some morning birding. We had hoped to get there very early but as expected the hour on the road produced some birds that slowed us down. It started as soon as we got out of the hotel, with a Barred Forest Falcon calling, although it never showed. And on the drive we picked up Greenish Elaenia, Mouse-coloured Tyrannulet, Hooded Tanager, Great Black Hawk and a Tucuman Pygmy Owl! An excellent selection for the morning drive. An Agouti was the only mammal we saw, but it was the first of the trip.

  The birding at Cerro Leon itself started at around 08:00 but was excellent, with all the target species we had hoped to find here being seen quickly. The Bolivian Slaty Antshrike was our main omission from our visit the previous evening, and we had phenomenal views of the pair this morning. Black-bellied Antwren and White-lored Spinetail both showed better as well, and there was a nice backup cast of birds. The mornings highlight was probably a Tortoise that we spotted on the side of the road as we were leaving.

  From the area called Cerro Leon to the next area we wanted to stay called Agua Dulche, it took us five hours driving on the dirt roads. For the most part the roads were not awful, but some stretches were very slow. A Lesser Grison that scuttled across the road was nice, but it didn’t slow down at all for proper views.

  Once we arrived at Agua Dulche, we took an hour for a nap before setting out for a afternoon/night drive looking for mammals. There were not many birds to target in this area, but we managed a couple of new species for the trip with White-eyed Parakeet and Laughing Falcon. The best new birds came on the night drive itself, when we had a chance encounter with a pair of Striped Owls close to the road, and taped in a Great Horned Owl at a known territory.

  The main hope for exploring this region was to find some rare mammals. The drive in the late afternoon produced dozens of Chaco Mara but little else until almost dark, when a dark shape we spotted sitting by the side of the road turned out to be a Puma! We had really wanted to see another cat species, and were thrilled! It sat and allowed us to slowly approach with the car, until it decided it had enough and got up and slowly walked into the scrub! The night drive itself could not match this thrill, but we still had two Pampas Fox and two Crab-eating Fox, as well as a single Tapete Rabbit! A brilliant start to our time in Agua Dulche. 

Paraguay Day 8; Enciso National Park & Cerro Leon

   Having seen all the birds that we wanted in Enciso National Park, we decided to leave a day earlier than anticipated and head north to the Defensores del Chaco National Park deep in rural Paraguay, where there are greater chances for mammals and a few more birds to target. The prospect of poor dirt roads combined with forecasted rain made us nervous about taking on this endevour, but we knew that we would be fools to miss out on this park.

  We spent the first hour of the day in the Enciso park, trying without success to see a heard only Giant Antshrike from the previous day. We got no response! And so, at 08:30 we headed off beginning our trip north. First we stopped off at the town of La Patria to pick up fuel, as well as some additional canisters to reduce fuel pressure when we were remote. The journey was long on dirt roads of varying quality although in general not too bad. We saw a few Chaco Mara, a Grey Brocket, a Crane Hawk and a Brushland Tinamou on the way.

  When we finally arrived at Cerro Leon, and the small room we had reserved, we found that some of the diesel had spilled out over the back of the truck. After a short cleanup operation, and a wash and rest, we headed out for the first time to explore the new location.

  The road was quite mixed quality heading towards the main Cerro Leon campsite, but once there we had an enjoyable 90 minutes of birding before dark. I managed to find my only lifer in the area; White-lored Spinetail, but it did not show well and did not respond to playback. What did show well was a pair of very attractive Black-bellied Antwren, which we got nice views of. Amazonian Motmot and Purplish Jay were other new birds that we recorded here first.

  We had snacks for dinner and then drove back to our lodging in the dark to search for mammals. It started well with dozens of Little Nightjars on the road, as well as a metre long snake, but once we turned on to the main road the quantity of sightings dropped off. It started with a Crab-eating Fox, which did not show well, and the only other mammal we encountered was a Pampas Fox which equally did not show well. A Chaco Owl made an obligatory appearance as well. Once back at camp we did a little more exploring and in a much shorted time frame had almost exactly the same result, but these foxes showed much better, and we also had a couple of Tapeite. Not a bad night in the end but certainly not to the standard of recent nights. 

Paraguay Day 7; Enciso National Park

  For our first full day in Enciso National Park we set off back up the road to the Bolivian border, this time aiming to reach further than we had the previous afternoon and with no stops, with the park and only birding beyond the furthest border where the Chaco ended. It was a long drive on often sandy roads but we had an enjoyable time with all our targets seen.

  In the same area where we had found the Black-crested Finch the previous day we found several more individuals, sometimes showing better than they had yesterday. That said they were still elusive and did not perform incredibly well. Continuing along the road we picked up Yellow-browed Tyrant for the trip list and a Paraguaian rarity with a White-tipped Plantcutter, an unexpected bird for our trip. As we reached the community of Nuevo Asuncion, there was a very showy Roseate Spoonbill in a roadside puddle and we were able to get some nice pictures.

  Not far after the community we parked up and began to walk. In this area we wanted to find the Spot-winged Falconet but did not know exactly where to look. A few eBird pins were dotted along the road, with two about six kilometres ahead of us, so that is where we struck for. Sadly we only decided to make this move halfway through the walk, and by then the cool cloud had thinned out and it was getting warm, leaving us out in the sun completely unprepared.

  Once we reached the located we found a desolated farmhouse, but more importantly we immediately found a pair of the Spot-winged Falconets! They gave us an incredible show flying over our heads and singing from the treetops. Relieved our walk had been worthwhile, we marched back to the car to refresh ourselves and relax a bit.

  The drive back to the camp was significantly less eventful, although we had a nice showy Pampas Fox and added Pearl Kite to our trip list. We made a short stop at a location we thought might be good for Giant Antshrike, but sadly the bird responded deep in the Chaco and we did not see it. We arrived back mid afternoon elated but tired, and rested before our night drive.  

  Even the campground was lively, with a Black-legged Seriema hanging around throughout the afternoon and even a few mammal species, with Chaco Mara and a new species; Thirteen-banded Armadillo both paid us a visit. The latter was very impressive being the largest Armadillo we had seen on the trip until this point.

  At night the drive was phenomenal. Although there were no new species, we had six Tapirs at various points! Two were drinking together in a roadside ditch, we saw one cross the road far away in the thermal, one ran away from the road on the edge of the National Park, one ran in front of the car in front of the campground and finally one was in the campground just after! And to top it all off, we had a lot of fun with the Plains Viscachas around the campground, including one that charged right at us when it was flushed by a dog whilst we were photographing it! Throw in a Potoo, a Little Nightjar and a Chaco Owl and it makes for quite the eventful evening!

Paraguay Day 6; Enciso National Park

   Having spent the night in Filadelfia, due to the weather, and with said weather having not improved but still being overcast and drizzly, we decided to skip birding early morning around the town and instead drive the three hours to our next destination; the Enisco National Park. This did mean skipping the traditionally best part of the day but with the weather, that did not really matter. And we found a pair of Black-legged Seriema on the road as we were driving, a species that had somehow eluded us until that point.

  We arrived at the park offices at 10:00, and after checking in and organizing ourselves we decided to set straight off out onto the road to find some birds. Our visit started well, with a Great Rufous Woodcreeper in the garden, my first new species for the day. The first sections of the road we stopped and had some success with good species like Rufous Casiornis and Plain Inezia.

  After a bit of research, we got the impression that our main target, the Black-crested Finch was further along the road, so we drove the 38 kilometer dirt road to the location where we hoped to find it. We had heard this road was sandy and difficult to drive, but we had no such problem, probably helped in large part by the weather and the drive was relatively straightforward, although we do have a big 4x4. The only bird of note we saw during this drive was a presumably stunned Chaco Owl sat by the side of the road, which we picked up and moved to a safe location.

  Once we arrived in the area, we could tell the birdlife was a little different when we immediately found Dull-coloured Grassquit, whilst listening to Small-billed Tinamou calling. It was enjoyable birding and it paid off after half an hour when we found a flock of around eight Black-crested Finch. Sadly they were not especially approachable, but since this was one of my main targets for the whole trip, I was glad to have connected.

  The drive back was also lively with birdlife. On the road we saw two different Crested Gallito, although always distant, and had a surprise bonus bird with a Chaco Earthcreeper. Not a species I had marked for this location. Other birds included an impressive number of Dark-billed Cuckoos in the roadside bushes, as well as commoner species. We arrived back at the campground at 17:00 and settled ourselves in before heading out again. 

  The first few hours of our night drive were uneventful, as we drove 20 kilometres to try find a Striped Owl, which never gave us a response. Still, we were able to find Common Potoo and Little Nightjar in the same area, so it was not a complete loss. However, the night escalated quickly right at the end. We wanted to check an area near the campsite for Plains Viscacha, but just before we arrived there we heard some rustling in the vegetation. The torch revealed a Tapir feeding in the roadside vegetation! It showed well, but moved off before any photos could be taken. The Viscacha were easy to find and showed well, although the nearby farms dog came to join us and understandably caused a few problems.

  Back at the camp, a Rufous Nightjar was calling so we tried to find it. We managed one view of the bird close overhead as it passed, but whilst doing this we had brief views of another Tapir and a Three-banded Armadillo! It was a phenomenal end to the night!