Oceanwide Day 6; South Atlantic - Falkland Islands to South Georgia

   Today was a full day at sea as we sailed from the Falkland Islands to South Georgia. Sadly this meant that all of the birding had to be done on the deck of our ship, and the conditions were not particularly helpful thanks to a fog that reduced visibility throughout the day. There were also periods of rainfall, and the colder weather meant that generally being on deck was not a particularly pleasant experience, but we endured nonetheless.

  The birding throughout the day was slow, but with a few highlights that kept the spirits high. The morning was probably the birdiest part of the day, with a couple of Snowy Albatross hanging around the ship, and our first Black-bellied Storm Petrels although we would seem more throughout the day. Sadly I tried to sneak in a shower during this first part of the day and consequently missed a Blue Petrel and a Soft-plumaged Petrel. 

  After breakfast the slow birding continued, but bits of interest continued to appear. A few Grey-rumped Storm Petrels were nice, given that we expected to leave this species behind at the Falkland Islands. Another new species was Light-mantled Albatross, and we had two individuals hanging around the ship for some time, giving a phenomenal performance. Our only cetacean of the day came during this period, which was my only Fin Whale of the trip.

  Once lunch had finished the will to continue really began to be tested. There were points during the afternoon when I really considered heading inside, but in those moments something occurred to raised the spriits. The first was two Macaroni Penguins not far from the boat. But the second was the real highlight, when I picked up an Atlantic Petrel off the Starboard side of the ship. I recognized it immediately, despite it being a rare bird, and was able to stay with it as it passed despite being at distance. Our afternoon was nicely rounded out by a close flyby from a South Georgia Diving Petrel, once I had checked in the book. The fog finally closed in around 17:00, driving us inside. 

  We managed half an hour after dinner once the fog had lifted, but it had only lifted thanks to some heavy rain. This addition time yielded nothing new, and we did not take too much convincing to call it a day at that point. 

-Fin Whale

-South Georgia Diving Petrel

-Atlantic Petrel

-Light-mantled Albatross

-Grey-backed Storm Petrel

-Wilson's Storm Petrel

-Snowy Albatross

Oceanwide Day 5; Falkland Islands - Stanley

   On the birding front it was a much quieter day today, as we would spend the day at the Falkland capital of Stanley, before setting out to the open ocean after lunch. I was aware that this would represent my last chance to see the Comersons Dolphin, and so was excited when we moved into the natural harbour of Stanley to see a dolphin following the shoreline. However, it turned out to be a Peale’s Dolphin, although it was curious to observe the animal swimming on its back whilst tail slapping! My first time seeing such a behavior.

  Fortunately I did not have to wait long to relieve the Comersons Dolphin issue, as whilst waiting for the zodiacs to take us in to Stanley, I spotted two bow-riding on an approaching launch. The launch subsequently docked at our ship and I was able to look down on the two animals swimming below me. Throughout the morning these Commerson's Dolphins were around, accompanying us whilst we were on the zodiacs and also swimming in the harbour when we boarded. It was quite the encounter for a species I thought we might miss. 

  The birding in Stanley was much the same as other Falkland sites, with Falkland Steamer Duck and Kelp Goose on the shoreline, and the usual assortment of passerines on the land. The only additions were a Variable Hawk and a the House Sparrows singing from every garden. We returned to the ship at 12:30, had lunch and then headed out to the open sea.

  The sea started well, with hundreds of birds feeding as we departed the Falkland Islands, including a rarity in the form of an Arctic Tern. But once we had passed the assortment of feeding seabirds, the sea quietened down significantly. There were a few highlights, including two Grey-rumped Storm-Petrel and our first Grey-headed Albatross, but otherwise it was limited.

  Cetacean activity was not bad in the grand scheme of things, but it was quite frustrating. A pod of at least three Peales Dolphins made an appearance just out from the Falkland Islands, but they did not linger. Out at sea we had at least four whales, with blows observed not even that distant, but for whatever reason the animals themselves stayed low in the water and even through photos they were difficult to see. They were ultimately left as unidentified. 

  There was a thick sea fret that moved in later afternoon, and once the briefing and dinner were complete, it was too dark to do any more watching. So we settled in to relax in preparation for our full day at sea tomorrow. 

-Commerson's Dolphin

-Peales Dolphin

-Grey-headed Albatross

-Black-browed Albatross

-White-chinned Petrel

-Grey-backed Storm Petrel

-Grey-backed Storm Petrel & Wilson's Storm Petrel

Oceanwide Day 4; Falkland Islands - Barren Island & George Island

   It was quite the bumpy overnight ride on the ship, and I regularly found myself awake as the ship crashed through the waves, so I wasn’t in much of a rush to wake up in the morning, instead waiting for the morning announcement before getting out of bed. That was around 07:00, and after that and a short breakfast we commenced with the days agenda. 

  The morning would be spent visiting the aptly named Barren Island on the south side of the Falklands. This was an island not visited by even most of the staff, so it was exciting to explore. On the seabird front the highlights were breeding Gentoo Penguins and a few Magellanic Penguins as well, plus Southern Giant Petrels, which were also enjoying feeding on a dead and well-rotten Sei Whale that had washed up in the harbour. 

  On the island itself there were a few nice birds to hunt for. Cobbs Wren was a possibility here but we never found one. The Blackish Cincloides was very common, and very tame, allowing for enhanced views after yesterdays briefer encounter. The White-bridled Finch was common here, although not particularly confiding it has to be noted. Only at the end was able to get close enough for good shots. And there were several confiding Two-banded Plovers, allowing for my best views of the species.

  In addition to the birds there was also a small colony of South American Sea Lions, and on the beach were our first Southern Elephant Seals, although they did not do a great deal while we were there. Obviously the birds took priority but these were still nice to see. We returned to the main ship around midday and took our lunch and a short break before heading out for the afternoon.

  Our afternoon destination was the very close George Island, a private sheep farm that we were lucky to have been able to arrange access to. This island also had Cobbs Wren, with a pair apparently nesting at the farmhouse, and so that became the afternoon priority. Despite this, it still took a good 40 minutes to find an individual around the farmhouse, and the bird could not be approached due to the high interest it generated among punters. Fortunately, we were also able to explore an area of tussock and in here there was another Cobbs Wren that showed fantastically well.

  With the wren now seen, my only outstanding species for the Falklands for the Rufous-chested Dotterel, and on the wild terrain of George Island we managed to find two, although always distant. The birding here was very enjoyable, with only a handful of Magellanic Penguins but plenty of the Falkland races of terrestrial species, including more confiding Tussockbirds, and offshore there was a nice group of four White-tufted Grebes. 

  At night we sailed around the south side of the Falklands to reach the port of Stanley in the morning. This route took us past Sealion Island which apparently has a resident pod of Orca but sadly we did not encounter them. It was not a complete loss on the cetacean front however, as we did see two distant Sei Whales, identifiable by their obvious fin. A very pleasant way to end an excellent day.

-Gentoo Penguin

-Magellanic Penguin

-Magellanic Snipe

-Two-banded Plover

-White-bridled Finch

-Falkland Steamer Duck

-Blackish Cinclodes

-Brown Skua

-Striated Caracara

-Cobb's Wren

-Rufous-chested Dotterel

-White-tufted Grebe

-Sei Whale

-Southern Elephant Seal

-South American Sea Lion