Brazil; Unamar

 Since we never stop, once we had wrapped up our time in the south we decided to travel to Rio to visit Lias sister, her husband and her cousin who was over from Germany. We arrived a few days earlier than her cousins however, and this afforded us a little time to go explore, specifically to try and find a species iconic in Brazil and globally; the Golden Lion Tamarin.

This beautiful small monkey is only found in a few forest fragments around Rio, but we never tried to see it the last time we visited the state and deeply regretted it. Since we had the opportunity now, we decided to give it a go in a reserve just north of the town of Cabo Frio, in a small town called Unamar. This fragment is very small, but has a decent population of these monkeys, and seemed to be reliable.

We headed there for early morning, but failed to find any monkeys whilst driving through the forest. We continued until we arrived at the park headquarters, where there were a few guards and management people, who explained there were insufficient staff to take us on the trails, and that now was fruiting season and the Tamarins were largely dispersed throughout the forest. Still we spent and hour or so wandering around the headquarters, where the ongoing work was explained, as was the places where the Tamarins occasionally visited. They had begun to set up a feeding platform for the monkeys, to try and identify individuals to better gauge the population, but this was in its early stages and there was no activity there at the moment.

It was beginning to look like it would be a frustrating morning. But we persisted and decided again to try the road outside the compound. No sooner had we left the compound, but we found three individuals feeding in a tree right next to the road. These included a juvenile, presumably an adult male and another adult, presumably a female. We were able to spend a good hour with these individuals as they foraged in the trees above us. At one point the two adults got into a scrap, but the branch they were on snapped and they both fell a storey in the canopy. Incredible scenes.

In the end they slowly moved off into the forest. They delighted us immensely, and we had brilliant views or this very rare primate! 

-Golden Lion Tamarin

Species List:
Parque Natural Municipal mico-leão-dourado: Rusty-margined Guan, Picazuro Pigeon, Ruddy Ground Dove, White-tipped Dove, Greater Ani, Sick's Swift, Minute Hermit, Magnificent Frigatebird, Black Vulture, Roadside Hawk, White-barred Piculet, Blond-crested Woodpecker, Yellow-headed Caracara, Sooretama Slaty Antshrike, Rufous-margined Antwren, Southern Beardless Tyrannulet, Great Kiskadee, Boat-billed Flycatcher, Piratic Flycatcher, Tropical Kingbird, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Chivi Vireo, House Wren, Purple-throated Euphonia, Red-rumped Cacique, Tropical Parula, Hooded Tanager, Palm Tanager, Bananaquit, 

Brazil; Rio Grande do Sul & Santa Catarina - Day 14

 So we arrived at our final day birding in the south of Brazil. Since we had already worked on all of our targets, with a mixed range of success, we decided to revisit the Porto do Barquinho to try and get better photos and views of the Many-coloured Rush-Tyrant.

In the end, we had a fantastic morning, with around ten different individuals of the Rush Tyrant showing around us, including four in the same place. However, they were quick and erratic, making them difficult to photograph, so we ended with a mixed range of results. Still, it was awesome to see this incredibly plumaged little bird again. In the same place, we found our first Pied-billed Grebe, Rosy-billed Pochard and White-tufted Grebe of the trip, the latter also being a new species for my Brazil list.

After an early lunch in the town we set off back to Porto Alegre, where we would stay the night before our flight the following day. The journey was long and not particularly interesting, but we did have flyovers of both Magnificent Frigatebird and Long-winged Harrier, which brought out trip to an end in a very pleasing way! 

Species List:
Porto do Barquinho: White-faced Whistling Duck, Fulvous Whistling Duck, Coscoroba Swan, Brazilian Teal, Silver Teal, Rosy-billed Pochard, White-tufted Grebe, Pied-billed Grebe, Great Grebe, Picui Ground Dove, White-tipped Dove, Eared Dove, Common Gallinule, White-winged Coot, Limpkin, White-backed Stilt, American Oystercatcher, American Golden Plover, Southern Lapwing, Pectoral Sandpiper, Pantanal Snipe, Lesser Yellowlegs, Brown-hooded Gull, Snowy-crowned Tern, Maguari Stork, Wood Stork, Neotropic Cormorant, Cocoi Heron, Great Egret, Snowy Egret, Western Cattle Egret, Black-crowned Night Heron, White-faced Ibis, Bare-faced Ibis, Roseate Spoonbill, Black Vulture, Snail Kite, Green-barred Woodpecker, Campo Flicker, Crested Caracara, Common Miner, Rufous Hornero, Wren-like Rushbird, Firewood-gatherer, Yellow-chinned Spinetail, Many-colored Rush Tyrant, Small-billed Elaenia, Spectacled Tyrant, Yellow-browed Tyrant, White Monjita, Cattle Tyrant, Great Kiskadee, Tropical Kingbird, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Blue-and-white Swallow, Brown-chested Martin, White-rumped Swallow, Sand Martin, Barn Swallow, House Wren, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Rufous-bellied Thrush, House Sparrow, Yellowish Pipit, Purple-throated Euphonia, Hooded Siskin, Rufous-collared Sparrow, White-browed Blackbird, Yellow-winged Blackbird, Chestnut-capped Blackbird, Red-crested Cardinal, Saffron Finch, Grassland Yellow Finch, 

Brazil; Rio Grande do Sul & Santa Catarina - Day 13

 Today was a long, long day in the field. This was the only day that we had decided to hire a guide, in order to help us find a couple of very difficult birds in the National Park here; South American Painted Snipe and Dot-winged Crake. The Snipe is very easy during the breeding season, which we were about a month too late for, and the Crake is always tricky. We hired Eloir to help us try to track down these difficult birds.

Once we picked him up, he took us to a day-roost of Great Horned Owl, which we found easily. This is a new bird for me, and we found two birds roosting in the trees in the area. A brilliant start to the day. In the same area we had a flyover Ringed Teal and a Dark-billed Cuckoo.

The next site we visited was an area of reedbed on the margin of an enormous lake. This site we had planned to visit the following day, to find Many-coloured Rush-Tyrant, and indeed we found this bird very common here. Frustratingly they did not show well for photos. Throughout the morning, there was a steady stream of Sand Martin all flying north. I suspect there were at least 300 that all passed through while we were there. Given I had seen just one Sand Martin in Brazil before, this was awesome to witness. There were no Painted Snipes here!

Next we went to another similar habitat nearby, but where we found more wading birds, including a flock of nine Stilt Sandpiper. This is one of the last Nearctic wading species I had not yet seen, so it was good to finally be able to get acquainted with them. We also had nice views of Coscoroba Swan and a Scarlet-headed Blackbird, plus flyby Tawny-headed Swallows. Still no Painted Snipes, however.

After lunch we tried to access another area via the beach, but the sand was too soft to allow us to pass, so we returned to the main trail of the National Park, where we had spent a lot of time over the last two days. Here we checked and area of marsh, which produced many Pantanal Snipes, and our first Common Miners of the trip. But again no Painted Snipes, and it was beginning to look like a lost cause.

We switched species and moved on to the Dot-winged Crake, which prefers the tussocks of grass in the dry lagoon margins. We tried a few areas but had no joy at all, with nothing responding. This too looked like a lost cause. In the hope of saving face, we switch to another species, the Hudsons Canastero, which is also difficult, but crucially we have both seen before in Argentina. This bird also did not appear.

Although the birding had been brilliant, we were now tired and disappointed at not landing either species, no matter how much of a shot in the dark it had been to begin with. But on our way back to the car we kept checking the tussocks in more hope than expectation. Then Eloir heard it. The crake was uttering just a soft note, but he said that was the bird. We waited, but nothing happened. We moved position and the bird finally did one full blast of song, but it still refused to come and show itself. We waited for over 15 minutes before finally, the Dot-winged Crake appeared in the grass in front of us. Typically it did not hang around, and the contrast in the grass was severe in the evening light, but we had finally found of quarry when it really looked like we wouldn’t.

Filled with joy and relief, we went back to drop Eloir off at his house, where he showed us his gorgeous collection of model birds that made from wood. Now he sells them as well, but the price he retails them at is no way a reflection of the value of the work, they should have been at least three times as much. Really really beautiful pieces of art. His personal collection was really something to behold! A wonderful end to the day! 

Species List:
Lagoa do Peixe National Park: Southern Screamer, White-faced Whistling Duck, Fulvous Whistling Duck, Coscoroba Swan, Ringed Teal, Brazilian Teal, Yellow-billed Pintail, Yellow-billed Teal, Picazuro Pigeon, Picui Ground Dove, White-tipped Dove, Eared Dove, Guira Cuckoo, Dark-billed Cuckoo, Gilded Sapphire, Plumbeous Rail, Dot-winged Crake, Common Gallinule, Limpkin, White-backed Stilt, American Oystercatcher, Grey Plover, American Golden Plover, Southern Lapwing, Collared Plover, Semipalmated Plover, Wattled Jacana, Hudsonian Godwit, Ruddy Turnstone, Stilt Sandpiper, Sanderling, White-rumped Sandpiper, Buff-breasted Sandpiper, Pectoral Sandpiper, Pantanal Snipe, Wilson's Phalarope, Greater Yellowlegs, Lesser Yellowlegs, Brown-hooded Gull, Grey-headed Gull, Kelp Gull, Yellow-billed Tern, Large-billed Tern, Common Tern, Snowy-crowned Tern, Royal Tern, Black Skimmer, White-chinned Petrel, Maguari Stork, Wood Stork, Neotropic Cormorant, Cocoi Heron, Great Egret, Snowy Egret, Western Cattle Egret, Striated Heron, Black-crowned Night Heron, White-faced Ibis, Bare-faced Ibis, Roseate Spoonbill, Black Vulture, Snail Kite, Long-winged Harrier, Great Horned Owl, Burrowing Owl, Crested Caracara, American Kestrel, Common Miner, Rufous Hornero, Wren-like Rushbird, Firewood-gatherer, Bay-capped Wren-Spinetail, Yellow-chinned Spinetail, Many-colored Rush Tyrant, Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Sooty Tyrannulet, Spectacled Tyrant, Yellow-browed Tyrant, White Monjita, Cattle Tyrant, Great Kiskadee, Tropical Kingbird, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Tawny-headed Swallow, Grey-breasted Martin, Brown-chested Martin, White-rumped Swallow, Sand Martin, Barn Swallow, Masked Gnatcatcher, House Wren, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Yellowish Pipit, Correndera Pipit, Grassland Sparrow, White-browed Blackbird, Scarlet-headed Blackbird, Greyish Baywing, Yellow-winged Blackbird, Chestnut-capped Blackbird, Brown-and-yellow Marshbird, Red-crested Cardinal, Grassland Yellow Finch, 

Brazil; Rio Grande do Sul & Santa Catarina - Day 12

 After last nights incident, we ended up starting a little later than we had expected while the vice-mayor collected his tractor to help us go collect the car. So we set off around 08:30, on the tractor, my first time, and about an hour and a half later the car was finally free of the mud. It took another couple of goes to get it back to dry land thanks to overnight rain, but our ordeal was finally finished.

Since we were already on the edge of the lagoon, we spent the rest of the morning birding there and had a very enjoyable time filtering through the numerous wading birds. There was a new species for me in Double-banded Plover, and views of other goodies such as more Wilsons Phalarope. In the adjacent bushes we found more Bay-capped Wren-Spinetail, but they did not show well for photos.

After lunch and moving our lodging to a new pousada out of town on the fringes of the National Park, we decided to first drive along the beach looking for waders and seabirds, before then birding around the Lagoa itself once the heat haze had died off a little.

The beach was very lively, with brilliant numbers of waders, especially Sanderling and White-rumped Sandpiper. But among them we found nice small groups of Turnstone, American Golden Plover and Grey Plover. The shore also had groups of Snowy-crowned Tern and Yellow-billed Tern, and scanning out to see found us seven White-chinned Petrels flying north at speed.

We returned to the lagoon at around 18:30 just in time for all the birds to be dappled in the afternoon light. We finally found the large group of Hudsonian Godwit I had been desperate to find, with at least 28 individuals around, but certainly more. They flew for us occasionally, displaying their beautiful black axillaries. Also on the wader front were my first Knot in Brazil, with a group of six feeding feverishly on the edge of the lagoon. And it was not just the lagoon, as the margins had very confiding Correndera Pipits, allowing us to get some cracking photos.

And even then the birding was not done, as on our drive into Mostardas we had a few Nacunda Nighthawks fly over us. And on the way back, we flush three Sisscor-tailed Nightjar from the road to the Pousada. 

Species List:
Lagoa do Peixe National Park: Southern Screamer, Coscoroba Swan, Eared Dove, White-backed Stilt, American Oystercatcher, Grey Plover, American Golden Plover, Southern Lapwing, Collared Plover, Two-banded Plover, Semipalmated Plover, Hudsonian Godwit, Ruddy Turnstone, Red Knot, Sanderling, White-rumped Sandpiper, Buff-breasted Sandpiper, Wilson's Phalarope, Greater Yellowlegs, Lesser Yellowlegs, Brown-hooded Gull, Grey-headed Gull, Kelp Gull, Yellow-billed Tern, Large-billed Tern, Common Tern, Snowy-crowned Tern, Royal Tern, Cabot's Tern, Black Skimmer, White-chinned Petrel, Maguari Stork, Wood Stork, Neotropic Cormorant, Cocoi Heron, Great Egret, White-faced Ibis, Roseate Spoonbill, Long-winged Harrier, Crested Caracara, Chimango Caracara, Rufous Hornero, Firewood-gatherer, Bay-capped Wren-Spinetail, Spectacled Tyrant, White Monjita, Cattle Tyrant, Great Kiskadee, Brown-chested Martin, Barn Swallow, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Correndera Pipit, White-browed Blackbird, Yellow-winged Blackbird, Grassland Yellow Finch, Pampa Finch,

Brazil; Rio Grande do Sul & Santa Catarina - Day 11

 The advice given to us was to get to the ferry early in the morning to ensure that you can cross without any problems. So that was what we did, although it did use up a mornings birding, it ensured that our travel from Pelotas to our next stop, the Lagoa do Peixe National Park would continue unhindered. We narrowly missed the 07:00 ferry, but fortunately only had to wait an hour before the next crossing at 08:00. The hour on the boat did not provide too much in the way of birding, although we did get our only Little Blue Heron of the trip.

We arrived in Lagoa do Peixe late-morning, so headed straight to the beach to look for some shorebirds. And there were plenty, although common species it gave us a taste of what was to come over the next few days. So, we headed back to our new lodging, in the small town of Tavares and tucked into some lunch while we waited for the midday heat to subside.

In the afternoon we headed to another area of the park. Here was not on the beach, but instead on the shoreline of the slowly drying shallow lagoon. We had been told that it was possible to cross the lagoon by car and access another area of the beach, so that is what we tried to do. However, this was very, very foolish and to nobody's surprise our car got stuck in the mud. We tried all evening but could not get it out, and after a few calls, we resigned ourselves to leaving the car overnight and dealing with it in the morning.

This was not an ideal development, for sure. We did see a few nice birds in-between moments of despair, including my first Wilsons Phalaropes, and added Bay-capped Wren-Spinetail to our trip list. In the morning we arranged for the vice-mayor to use his tractor to try pull the car our, so fingers crossed that comes together and we can continue with our birding without any further unexpected setbacks…

 Species List:
Lagoa do Peixe National Park: Coscoroba Swan, Feral Pigeon, Eared Dove, White-backed Stilt, American Oystercatcher, American Golden Plover, Southern Lapwing, Semipalmated Plover, Sanderling, White-rumped Sandpiper, Buff-breasted Sandpiper, Pectoral Sandpiper, Wilson's Phalarope, Greater Yellowlegs, Lesser Yellowlegs, Brown-hooded Gull, Grey-headed Gull, Kelp Gull, Yellow-billed Tern, Large-billed Tern, Snowy-crowned Tern, Royal Tern, Black Skimmer, Wood Stork, Neotropic Cormorant, Cocoi Heron, Great Egret, Snowy Egret, White-faced Ibis, Bare-faced Ibis, Roseate Spoonbill, Crested Caracara, Chimango Caracara, Monk Parakeet, Bay-capped Wren-Spinetail, Brown-chested Martin, White-rumped Swallow, House Sparrow, Correndera Pipit, Brown-and-yellow Marshbird, Grassland Yellow Finch, 

Brazil; Rio Grande do Sul & Santa Catarina - Day 10

 Lia felt unwell today, so we spent the day around the apartment while she rested and recovered. This gave me time to clear my memory cards in the camera, and to work on organizing the data I had collected during our trip so far, both for these blog posts and for the trip report I was hoping to write.

In the evening Lia felt a little better, so we returned to Ilha da Torotama to watch the Nacunda Nighthawks again. They were a little later out of roost today, but still put on a good show with probably around 10 individuals seen feeding against the setting sun. Tomorrow we will take the ferry across to the Lagoa do Peixe national park, our final stop on this itinerary. 

Species List:
Pelotas: Nacunda Nighthawk, 

Brazil; Rio Grande do Sul & Santa Catarina - Day 9

 Having learned the state of the waterbodies around Pelotas the previous day, we were better prepared for the struggle to find good numbers of waterbirds. We still had all of our passerine targets to deal with as well, and as such we decided to head to a similar area that we had the previous evening. In fact the road we birded this morning runs exactly parallel to the one we birded last night.

And it paid off, as we were soon able to find Curve-billed Reedhaunter, the most important species for us in the this area, followed by Scarlet-headed Blackbird. Both showed very nicely early morning, especially the Reedhaunter, which perched fantastically well whilst it was singing. We also found the rarer Sulphur-bearded Reedhaunter, our second of the trip, but sadly it did not cooperate in the same way. There was also a brilliant Brazil tick for us both, with a displaying Screaming Cowbird, vocalising so we could easily distinguish it from the commoner Shiny Cowbird.

For the heat of the day we went to the beach, which was absolutely rammed with tourists. Seawatching yielded a Magnificent Frigatebird but little else. In the afternoon, having wrapped up many of our targets already, we headed to the Ilha da Torotama which is a popular birding destination. The birding was slow for the most part, but the esturine marina had many species of wader to enjoy, including my first Brazilian Hudsonian Godwits, which meant I finally got to see the species’ black axillaries.

There was also a long overdue lifer here, with a few very distant Buff-breasted Sandpipers in the fields, along with good numbers of American Golden Plover. As the afternoon wore on the activity continued to increase, and we had great views of a Black Skimmer feeding in the marshes. Then, at dusk, we were treated to a fantastic show by the local Nacunda Nighthawks. We were not sure where to look for them, or how many there could be, but we found a deceased individual on the road when we arrived and this tipped us off to the general area to wait. And it was worth it, as when dusk arrived we were treated to around 15 individuals flying all around us. Absolutely brilliant birding. 

Species List:
Pelotas: Southern Screamer, Brazilian Teal, Silver Teal, Yellow-billed Teal, Feral Pigeon, Picazuro Pigeon, Spot-winged Pigeon, Picui Ground Dove, Eared Dove, Guira Cuckoo, Striped Cuckoo, Nacunda Nighthawk, Giant Wood Rail, Spot-flanked Gallinule, Common Gallinule, White-winged Coot, Limpkin, White-backed Stilt, American Golden Plover, Southern Lapwing, Semipalmated Plover, Wattled Jacana, Hudsonian Godwit, White-rumped Sandpiper, Buff-breasted Sandpiper, Lesser Yellowlegs, Brown-hooded Gull, Grey-headed Gull, Kelp Gull, Snowy-crowned Tern, Black Skimmer, Maguari Stork, Wood Stork, Magnificent Frigatebird, Neotropic Cormorant, Cocoi Heron, Great Egret, Snowy Egret, Western Cattle Egret, Striated Heron, Black-crowned Night Heron, White-faced Ibis, Plumbeous Ibis, Roseate Spoonbill, Snail Kite, Long-winged Harrier, Savanna Hawk, Roadside Hawk, Burrowing Owl, Amazon Kingfisher, Green Kingfisher, White Woodpecker, White-spotted Woodpecker, Campo Flicker, Crested Caracara, Chimango Caracara, American Kestrel, Monk Parakeet, Rufous-capped Antshrike, Rufous Hornero, Curve-billed Reedhaunter, Freckle-breasted Thornbird, Firewood-gatherer, Sulphur-bearded Reedhaunter, Yellow-chinned Spinetail, Spix's Spinetail, Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Sooty Tyrannulet, Scarlet Flycatcher, Spectacled Tyrant, Yellow-browed Tyrant, White Monjita, Black-and-white Monjita, Cattle Tyrant, Great Kiskadee, Tropical Kingbird, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Blue-and-white Swallow, Grey-breasted Martin, Brown-chested Martin, White-rumped Swallow, Barn Swallow, Masked Gnatcatcher, House Wren, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, House Sparrow, Yellowish Pipit, Hooded Siskin, Grassland Sparrow, Rufous-collared Sparrow, White-browed Blackbird, Screaming Cowbird, Shiny Cowbird, Scarlet-headed Blackbird, Greyish Baywing, Yellow-winged Blackbird, Brown-and-yellow Marshbird, Red-crested Cardinal, Sayaca Tanager, Black-and-rufous Warbling Finch, Saffron Finch, Grassland Yellow Finch, Pampa Finch, Rusty-collared Seedeater,

Brazil; Rio Grande do Sul & Santa Catarina - Day 8

 Pelotas is the main city in the south of Rio Grande do Sul state. The city is surrounded by reedbeds and marshes, and this draws many birdwatchers from all over Brazil but rarely from outside the country. We were excited to visit, to see the large flocks of ducks and waterbirds that the area promised.

Sadly it was not to be, as the continued dry weather had turned all the fields into dust-bowls, and the wildfowl totals were well down on what we had hoped, with absolutely no swans at all. We started by visiting the Banhado da Marambia, which is one of the most productive and accessible wetland areas in the region, but sadly there was almost no water at all. We found a few Southern Screamers but aside from those, we were largely relegated to looking for birds in the bushes, which we were a little more successful with. There was a lifer for me in Gilded Sapphire, a simple but pretty hummingbird, and a few other nice species such as Dark-billed Cuckoo and heard only Stripe-crowned Spinetail.

In the afternoon we headed further south more towards the coast, and while things here were still extremely dry, the birding did improve a lot with some wetland areas still managing to retain water. We still failed to find any of our key targets but had a lot of fun watching the Southern Screamers in the area, as well as the herons, storks and Roseate Spoonbills that were still lingering in the area. The passerines were also good fun, with Chotoy Spinetail being a new species for me, as well as nice views of Firewood Gatherer, Yellow-winged Blackbird and other commoner species.

We still have two full days around Pelotas, so hopefully we will find areas with more waterbirds that we can enjoy, but it is certainly more difficult that I had hoped. 

Species List:
Pelotas: Spotted Nothura, Southern Screamer, White-faced Whistling Duck, Brazilian Teal, Picazuro Pigeon, Ruddy Ground Dove, Picui Ground Dove, Eared Dove, Guira Cuckoo, Dark-billed Cuckoo, Glittering-bellied Emerald, Gilded Sapphire, Plumbeous Rail, Giant Wood Rail, Rufous-sided Crake, Limpkin, Southern Lapwing, Wattled Jacana, Maguari Stork, Wood Stork, Cocoi Heron, Great Egret, Snowy Egret, Western Cattle Egret, Striated Heron, Whistling Heron, Black-crowned Night Heron, White-faced Ibis, Plumbeous Ibis, Buff-necked Ibis, Roseate Spoonbill, Black Vulture, Turkey Vulture, Snail Kite, Long-winged Harrier, Savanna Hawk, Burrowing Owl, Ringed Kingfisher, Campo Flicker, Crested Caracara, Chimango Caracara, American Kestrel, Monk Parakeet, Rufous-capped Antshrike, Rufous Hornero, Wren-like Rushbird, Orange-breasted Thornbird, Firewood-gatherer, Stripe-crowned Spinetail, Yellow-chinned Spinetail, Chotoy Spinetail, Spix's Spinetail, Southern Beardless Tyrannulet, Sooty Tyrannulet, Scarlet Flycatcher, Spectacled Tyrant, Yellow-browed Tyrant, White Monjita, Black-and-white Monjita, Cattle Tyrant, Great Kiskadee, Tropical Kingbird, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Blue-and-white Swallow, Southern Rough-winged Swallow, Brown-chested Martin, White-rumped Swallow, Barn Swallow, Masked Gnatcatcher, House Wren, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Rufous-bellied Thrush, House Sparrow, Yellowish Pipit, Hooded Siskin, Rufous-collared Sparrow, White-browed Blackbird, Variable Oriole, Shiny Cowbird, Yellow-winged Blackbird, Brown-and-yellow Marshbird, Southern Yellowthroat, Red-crested Cardinal, Sayaca Tanager, Black-and-rufous Warbling Finch, Grassland Yellow Finch, Pampa Finch, Rusty-collared Seedeater, 

Brazil; Rio Grande do Sul & Santa Catarina - Day 7

 We only had one day in Bage, as dictated by our itinerary, so we had to be sure to make the most of it. We did not have so many target species here, but we did not know if we would be able to find them and this meant that we might have to spend some time searching, not ideal when between 10:00 – 16:00 the temperature all but reduces activity to zero.

We started our day at the premier destination in the area, the Banhado da Carpintaria, which is about an hour and a half drive away from Bage, on the border with Uruguay. To make the most of the day, we set off at 05:00 before first light, and as such got to see a beautiful sunrise over the pampas, with the early morning fog shrouding all the water bodies we drove past. There was also an abundance of activity, with Brazilian Guinea Pig lining the road almost everywhere, plus a few Spotted Nothura crossing in front of us, and a family of foxes fighting over a roadkill Tegu.

Once we arrived at the marsh the birding continued with gusto. One of the species we really wanted to find here was Marsh Seedeater, and no sooner had we got out of the car did a pair fly past us. As we birded we managed to find three different territories of this stunning little finch. Not long after we picked up two more key targets; Sulphur-bearded Reedhaunter and Crested Doradito, both easily missed. At the far side of the marsh to where we parked we had a brilliant bonus with a flock of seven Ringed Teals, tiny ducks and one of the few species of South American wildfowl that had eluded us on our trip to Argentina earlier in the year. Brilliant birding all round, with loads of activity from passerines, wildfowl flying over and even Greater Rhea in the fields adjacent. Then to wrap it off, on our way back we managed to tape in a Scimitar-billed Woodcreeper, a spectacular bird that unfortunately did not show as well as we would have hoped but were still thrilled to see.

After a few hours break in the town to see off the worst of the afternoon, we headed out to explore the north of the city in the hopes of finding Chiloe Wigeon on the ponds there. Lias friend Alex had given us a few locations and a plan of action, but the warm weather had dried many of the pools and our chances of finding the species was very much reduced. We still enjoyed some brilliant birding though, finding a small flock of Chestnut Seedeaters certainly the standout, along with good views of Southern Screamer. But the highlight was when we had an armadillo cross the road right in front of us.

It was getting late with no sign of the wigeon, but fortunately Lia still had signal and had been in touch with Alex. He sent through another pin to an artificial reservoir which normally had a lot of birds, but that would be distant. With light fading we raced over and found exactly what he said, hundreds of Cormorants, Coots and Herons but all far too far away to pick out any wigeon lurking among them. Then, as if by magic, we picked up a flock of ducks coming in flying over the reservoir, with big white wing patches. It was them! The Chiloe Wigeon! They did one circuit overhead before continuing onwards over the fields. Just like that, we completed all of our targets in Bage, and had a brilliant days birding whilst at in.

During the rest of the evening and early night we drove on to Pelotas, just two and a half hours away, where we would continue with our birding the following day. 

Species List:
Bagé: Greater Rhea, Red-winged Tinamou, Spotted Nothura, Southern Screamer, White-faced Whistling Duck, Black-necked Swan, Coscoroba Swan, Ringed Teal, Brazilian Teal, Silver Teal, Chiloe Wigeon, Yellow-billed Teal, Dusky-legged Guan, Great Grebe, Picazuro Pigeon, Spot-winged Pigeon, Picui Ground Dove, White-tipped Dove, Eared Dove, Guira Cuckoo, Plumbeous Rail, Giant Wood Rail, Spot-flanked Gallinule, Common Gallinule, White-winged Coot, Rufous-sided Crake, Limpkin, White-backed Stilt, Southern Lapwing, Collared Plover, Wattled Jacana, White-rumped Sandpiper, Pectoral Sandpiper, Pantanal Snipe, Lesser Yellowlegs, Brown-hooded Gull, Maguari Stork, Wood Stork, Neotropic Cormorant, Rufescent Tiger Heron, Cocoi Heron, Great Egret, Snowy Egret, Western Cattle Egret, Striated Heron, Black-crowned Night Heron, White-faced Ibis, Bare-faced Ibis, Plumbeous Ibis, Buff-necked Ibis, Roseate Spoonbill, Turkey Vulture, Savanna Hawk, Burrowing Owl, Amazon Kingfisher, Campo Flicker, Crested Caracara, Chimango Caracara, American Kestrel, Monk Parakeet, Rufous-capped Antshrike, Scimitar-billed Woodcreeper, Rufous Hornero, Wren-like Rushbird, Freckle-breasted Thornbird, Firewood-gatherer, Sulphur-bearded Reedhaunter, Yellow-chinned Spinetail, White-winged Becard, Crested Doradito, Sooty Tyrannulet, Scarlet Flycatcher, Spectacled Tyrant, Yellow-browed Tyrant, White Monjita, Black-and-white Monjita, Cattle Tyrant, Great Kiskadee, Tropical Kingbird, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Blue-and-white Swallow, Southern Rough-winged Swallow, Brown-chested Martin, White-rumped Swallow, Masked Gnatcatcher, House Wren, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Rufous-bellied Thrush, House Sparrow, Hooded Siskin, Grassland Sparrow, Rufous-collared Sparrow, White-browed Blackbird, Shiny Cowbird, Greyish Baywing, Yellow-winged Blackbird, Chestnut-capped Blackbird, Southern Yellowthroat, Red-crested Cardinal, Blue-and-yellow Tanager, Sayaca Tanager, Black-and-rufous Warbling Finch, Saffron Finch, Grassland Yellow Finch, Pampa Finch, Blue-black Grassquit, Marsh Seedeater, Chestnut Seedeater, Double-collared Seedeater, Rusty-collared Seedeater, 

Brazil; Rio Grande do Sul & Santa Catarina - Day 6

Since we had visited all the sites we planned and seen all the species we wanted in the area immediately around São Francisco de Paula, we decided to add a small detour to our itinerary, a detour of two hours driving, and visit a site called Canion Palanquinhos where it was possible to find the very rare Tropeiro Seedeater.

The site itself was an area of mixed pasture and woodland on the border of a small but well-vegetated canyon. The plan was that we would arrive, search for an hour or so, see the seedeater and then continue with our long drive to the town of Bagé, on the Uruguayan border. Sadly, however, that is not how it transpired, as we failed to find the bird and in the end only left the site at lunchtime.

There was still some good birding to be had however, and we saw Black-tailed Tityra and Crested Black Tyrant only here on our trip. There was also an impressive swarm of White-collared and Dusky Swifts circling over the canyon. So the morning, while disappointing, was not a complete bust. In the end the long drive to Bagé was relatively smooth, and we still arrived in the town during daylight.  

Species List:
Canion Palanquinhos: Red-winged Tinamou, Spotted Nothura, Dusky-legged Guan, Pale-vented Pigeon, Picazuro Pigeon, Ruddy Ground Dove, Eared Dove, Great Dusky Swift, White-collared Swift, Glittering-bellied Emerald, Southern Lapwing, Neotropic Cormorant, Western Cattle Egret, Buff-necked Ibis, Black Vulture, Turkey Vulture, Rufous-thighed Hawk, Ringed Kingfisher, Green-barred Woodpecker, Campo Flicker, Red-legged Seriema, Crested Caracara, Yellow-headed Caracara, Chimango Caracara, American Kestrel, Monk Parakeet, Maroon-bellied Parakeet, Rufous Hornero, Firewood-gatherer, Black-tailed Tityra, Cliff Flycatcher, Southern Beardless Tyrannulet, Small-billed Elaenia, Crested Black Tyrant, Yellow-browed Tyrant, Grey Monjita, Great Kiskadee, Variegated Flycatcher, Tropical Kingbird, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Blue-and-white Swallow, Southern Rough-winged Swallow, White-rumped Swallow, House Wren, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Rufous-bellied Thrush, Hellmayr's Pipit, Hooded Siskin, Grassland Sparrow, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Chopi Blackbird, Yellow-rumped Marshbird, Tropical Parula, Diademed Tanager, Sayaca Tanager, Swallow Tanager, Saffron Finch, Pampa Finch, Blue-black Grassquit, Double-collared Seedeater, Green-winged Saltator, 

Brazil; Rio Grande do Sul & Santa Catarina - Day 5

For the first of January, we found ourselves with no real species to target, having cleared up over the past couple of days. The only species left for us was the Chestnut-headed Tanager, a widespread but low-density species that is difficult to see. Fortunately, a pair had recently bred in the garden of the pousada, so we spent our morning waiting for them to appear, which after some time both male and female did. Sadly they were very elusive and difficult to see well, especially the male, and so we were left with unsatisfactory but sufficient views.

After breakfast, we tried a new road but the temperature was already very high and activity in the marshes we found we significantly reduced. We were still able to find both Saffron-cowled Blackbird and Straight-billed Reedhaunter again, but neither came close and activity was generally so slow that I spent half the time photographing the dragonflies feeding along the roadside ponds.

In the afternoon, after a glorious two-hour nap, we returned to the same road, only this time carried on until it turned into Atlantic Forest. The forest here was nice, with a few new Atlantic Forest species for our trip list. These included many Bare-throated Bellbirds singing, although we typically did not see any. We did however get nice views of Blue-Billed Black-Tyrant and Yellow-legged Thrush. A nice way to round out our time here in Sao Francisco de Paula. 

Species List:
São Francisco de Paula: Brown Tinamou, Picazuro Pigeon, White-tipped Dove, Eared Dove, White-collared Swift, Sick's Swift, Glittering-bellied Emerald, Violet-capped Woodnymph, Slaty-breasted Wood Rail, Rufous-sided Crake, Southern Lapwing, Buff-necked Ibis, Black Vulture, Turkey Vulture, Rufous-thighed Kite, Stygian Owl, Green-billed Toucan, White-spotted Woodpecker, Campo Flicker, Crested Caracara, Yellow-headed Caracara, Pileated Parrot, Maroon-bellied Parakeet, Olivaceous Woodcreeper, Lesser Woodcreeper, Scalloped Woodcreeper, Rufous Hornero, Sharp-billed Treehunter, Buff-browed Foliage-gleaner, Araucaria Tit-Spinetail, Straight-billed Reedhaunter, Olive Spinetail, Blue Manakin, Hooded Berryeater, Bare-throated Bellbird, Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulet, Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Olivaceous Elaenia, Planalto Tyrannulet, Euler's Flycatcher, Blue-billed Black Tyrant, Black-and-white Monjita, Swainson's Flycatcher, Tropical Kingbird, Chivi Vireo, Azure Jay, Blue-and-white Swallow, Grey-breasted Martin, House Wren, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Yellow-legged Thrush, White-necked Thrush, Rufous-bellied Thrush, Blacksmith Thrush, Hellmayr's Pipit, Green-chinned Euphonia, Hooded Siskin, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Golden-winged Cacique, Saffron-cowled Blackbird, Yellow-rumped Marshbird, Tropical Parula, White-rimmed Warbler, Chestnut-headed Tanager, Grey-throated Warbling Finch, Diademed Tanager, Blue-and-yellow Tanager, Sayaca Tanager, Chestnut-backed Tanager, Uniform Finch, Saffron Finch, Grassland Yellow Finch, Lesser Grass Finch, Pampa Finch, Black-bellied Seedeater, Double-collared Seedeater, Bananaquit, Green-winged Saltator, 

Brazil; Rio Grande do Sul & Santa Catarina - Day 4

 There were a few places in Sao Francisco de Paula where we wanted to check, but the birding started nice and relaxed at our lodging where Roberto had set up a lively feeding station, freshly stocked at 06:00 in the morning. And it was an excellent setup with Chestnut-backed Tanagers, Azure-shouldered Tanagers and one of our key targets for this location; Green-chinned Euphonia. He also has another setup in a different location where there was more seed as well as fruits. Roberto took us to this setup saying that a family of Azaras Agouti had been visiting. We did get phenomenal views of the Agouti, including the juvenile, but they were overshadowed by an incredibly tame Brown Tinamou that came to feed on the seed, the best views I have ever had of any Tinamou ever.

After a 09:00 breakfast, Roberto took us out to a few sites for a mornings guiding. There was only one bird we really wanted however, the Swallow-tailed Cotinga. During my research for the trip I had discovered that there was an active nest of this species nearby, so finding out that the hostel proprietor was a bird guide was an incredible stroke of luck, and he took us to see the nest. We watched it for just under an hour, with a bird always sat on the nest and occasionally a changeover would take place. I have waited so long to see this species, one of the most beautiful birds in all South America, and it did not disappoint.

Before lunch Roberto also took us to see a nest of Short-tailed Nighthawk, which meant I finally got to see this species as something more than a silhouette flying at dusk. Near to this we also worked to find Ochre-breasted Pipit, and endangered species restricted to old growth pasture in this area. We did have excellent views of three birds displaying and another perched on the ground. This rounded off a truly brilliant mornings birding.

In the afternoon we set out alone. It was extremely hot so did not head back out until after 16:00. We chose to bird an open road through a series of small marshes and pastures to try and get better views of some species we had already seen. As soon as we arrived we had a stunning male Long-winged Harrier gliding over the marsh, and we quickly picked up another Saffron-cowled Blackbird. A Long-tailed Cinclodes, a species had hoped we would encounter during the afternoon, showed extremely well. And to top it all off, we had fantastic flyby views of a few small groups of the Red-spectacled Amazon, a species which I really did not think we would find at this time of year.

An absolutely fantastic days birding to round out 2022!

Happy New Year everybody! 

Species List:
São Francisco de Paula: Brown Tinamou, Red-winged Tinamou, Spotted Nothura, Yellow-billed Teal, Dusky-legged Guan, Picazuro Pigeon, White-tipped Dove, Eared Dove, Guira Cuckoo, Short-tailed Nighthawk, Sick's Swift, Glittering-bellied Emerald, Violet-capped Woodnymph, Rufous-sided Crake, Southern Lapwing, Green Ibis, Buff-necked Ibis, Black Vulture, Turkey Vulture, White-tailed Kite, Long-winged Harrier, Roadside Hawk, Green-billed Toucan, Campo Flicker, Crested Caracara, Chimango Caracara, Monk Parakeet, Pileated Parrot, Vinaceous-breasted Amazon, Red-spectacled Amazon, Maroon-bellied Parakeet, Variable Antshrike, Planalto Woodcreeper, Rufous Hornero, Long-tailed Cinclodes, Araucaria Tit-Spinetail, Olive Spinetail, Grey-bellied Spinetail, Spix's Spinetail, Swallow-tailed Cotinga, Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulet, Small-billed Elaenia, Olivaceous Elaenia, White-crested Tyrannulet, Bran-colored Flycatcher, Great Kiskadee, Tropical Kingbird, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Azure Jay, Blue-and-white Swallow, Brown-chested Martin, White-rumped Swallow, House Wren, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Rufous-bellied Thrush, Creamy-bellied Thrush, Ochre-breasted Pipit, Green-chinned Euphonia, Hooded Siskin, Grassland Sparrow, Rufous-collared Sparrow, White-browed Blackbird, Golden-winged Cacique, Chopi Blackbird, Saffron-cowled Blackbird, Yellow-rumped Marshbird, Southern Yellowthroat, Tropical Parula, White-rimmed Warbler, Red-crested Cardinal, Grey-throated Warbling Finch, Diademed Tanager, Blue-and-yellow Tanager, Sayaca Tanager, Azure-shouldered Tanager, Chestnut-backed Tanager, Blue Dacnis, Uniform Finch, Long-tailed Reed Finch, Saffron Finch, Grassland Yellow Finch, Lesser Grass Finch, Pampa Finch, Blue-black Grassquit, Double-collared Seedeater, Bananaquit, 

Brazil; Rio Grande do Sul & Santa Catarina - Day 3

 Having completed most of our targets the previous day, we had little left on the agenda before departing from Urupema. We decided to return to the Atlantic Forest but early morning before breakfast. In the two hours that we were there we failed to get a sniff of the Antpitta but did manage to see the Rufous-tailed Antthrush, well but through the vegetation. The highlight was a very showy female Large-tailed Antshrike that put on a nice display inside the forest, bounding between the bamboo stems.

We returned to breakfast and to have one last look at the feeders there. The Thick-billed Saltator, Chestnut-backed Tanager and Blue-and-yellow Tanagers were all there, as was our first Red Tanager of the trip. A very enjoyable final act in what had been a brilliant first few days on this trip.

Next stop was further south, about four and a half hours, to Sao Francisco de Paula on the Rio Grande do Sul/Santa Catarina border. At the end of the afternoon we found a place to stop at Parque Estadual de Tahina where there was some grassland habitat. The grassland did not yield much, presumably due to the afternoon heat, but in the early evening the marshes were fantastic.

Within ten minutes we found both of our key targets for the next few days; Straight-billed Reedhaunter and Saffron-cowled Blackbird. Although neither came particularly close for photos both looked brilliant in the early evening light. There was also a very dapper male Black-bellied Seedeater to enjoy, and a distant pair of parrots that flew over turned out to be Red-spectacled Amazon when we checked the photos, which we did not know if we would find on our trip due to the time of year, and is a very localised in this area of Brazil. A real bonus species for our trip. 

Species List:
Urupema: Brown Tinamou, Red-winged Tinamou, Dusky-legged Guan, Picazuro Pigeon, Sick's Swift, Glittering-bellied Emerald, White-throated Hummingbird, Southern Lapwing, Buff-necked Ibis, Black Vulture, Swallow-tailed Kite, White-spotted Woodpecker, Red-legged Seriema, Yellow-headed Caracara, Maroon-bellied Parakeet, Large-tailed Antshrike, Variable Antshrike, Mouse-colored Tapaculo, Rufous-tailed Antthrush, Scalloped Woodcreeper, Striolated Tit-Spinetail, Olive Spinetail, White-winged Becard, Southern Beardless Tyrannulet, Small-billed Elaenia, Greenish Tyrannulet, Swainson's Flycatcher, Variegated Flycatcher, Tropical Kingbird, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Chivi Vireo, Azure Jay, Blue-and-white Swallow, House Wren, Rufous-bellied Thrush, Blacksmith Thrush, Hooded Siskin, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Golden-winged Cacique, Tropical Parula, White-rimmed Warbler, Red Tanager, Grey-throated Warbling Finch, Diademed Tanager, Blue-and-yellow Tanager, Sayaca Tanager, Chestnut-backed Tanager, Green-winged Saltator, Thick-billed Saltator,
Parque Estadual do Tainhas: Red-winged Tinamou, Picazuro Pigeon, White-tipped Dove, Eared Dove, Great Dusky Swift, White-collared Swift, Sick's Swift, Glittering-bellied Emerald, Southern Lapwing, Great Egret, Black Vulture, Turkey Vulture, Savanna Hawk, Campo Flicker, Red-legged Seriema, Crested Caracara, Yellow-headed Caracara, Chimango Caracara, American Kestrel, Red-spectacled Amazon, Rufous Hornero, Freckle-breasted Thornbird, Firewood-gatherer, Straight-billed Reedhaunter, Spix's Spinetail, Sooty Tyrannulet, Bran-colored Flycatcher, Yellow-browed Tyrant, Grey Monjita, Black-and-white Monjita, Great Kiskadee, Variegated Flycatcher, Tropical Kingbird, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Azure Jay, Southern Rough-winged Swallow, Brown-chested Martin, White-rumped Swallow, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Rufous-bellied Thrush, Hooded Siskin, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Chopi Blackbird, Saffron-cowled Blackbird, Yellow-rumped Marshbird, Diademed Tanager, Saffron Finch, Lesser Grass Finch, Pampa Finch, Black-bellied Seedeater, Double-collared Seedeater,

Brazil; Rio Grande do Sul & Santa Catarina - Day 2

 Today was our first, and only full day in Urupema, and although we could have most of the following day if need be, we had a list of destinations to visit and about 14 hours of daylight in which to fit them all in.

First was finding the birds around the Pousada, featuring the number one target of the trip; Planalto Tapaculo. Normally Tapaculos are difficult and elusive but this one was beyond easy. During the morning we found four individuals, the first of which perched right out on the road without any encouragement, allowing for some excellent photos. Next we tried our other targets here, the range restricted Mottled Piculette and Striolated Tit-Spinetail, both of which we found before 10:00am.

Next stop was an area of upland marsh called Morro do Combates. It was about a half-hour drive from the eco-pousada and there were a few small stops on the way for odd bits that increased this time. Once we arrived it was already very sunny and quite breezy. Consequently, there was not a huge amount of activity but we found a few of the regions marshland specialities; Lesser Gras-Finch, Long-tailed Reed-Finch and the stunning Black-bellied Seedeater, a migrant breeder in this area.

Next on the agenda was lunch, after which we headed up into an area of Atlantic Araucaria forest behind Urupema itself. The birding here started quite slow but as the afternoon wore on we started picking up nice bits. A couple of Mouse-coloured Tapaculos were nice, but not as showy as their compatriot in the morning. Greenish Tyrannulet was only my second ever, and there were heard-only for both Speckle-breasted Antpitta and Rufous-tailed Antthrush, which hopefully we will find when we return tomorrow.

At the end of the afternoon we headed to the marsh opposite the Pousada in preparation for the night-birding. In the last hour of light we added Black-and-white Monjita and Freckle-breasted Thornbird to our list of regionally endemic marshbirds. There was also a nice showy Black-and-rufous Warbling-Finch and almost all of the same species we has seen earlier in the day, including many Black-bellied Seedeaters.

As dusk drew in three others birders arrived, including an internet acquaintance of Lia’s, Gustavo Pinto who was working as a bird guide. With his help we managed to see both of the birds we failed to find the previous night. The Giant Snipe we only saw fly-in, as a silhouette against the sky, but the Sickle-winged Nightjar showed very well, and it would not have been possible without Gustavo’s help. When we finally arrived back at the Pousada, we quickly tried for the Long-tufted Sceech-Owl that lives in the garden, and mercifully it showed very quickly, rounding off a day when we managed almost every-single target bird.

A truly phenomal days birding. 

Species List:
Urupema: Brown Tinamou, Red-winged Tinamou, Spotted Nothura, Picazuro Pigeon, White-tipped Dove, Eared Dove, Short-tailed Nighthawk, Sickle-winged Nightjar, Sick's Swift, Glittering-bellied Emerald, Purple-crowned Plovercrest, White-throated Hummingbird, Plumbeous Rail, Rufous-sided Crake, Southern Lapwing, Giant Snipe, Whistling Heron, Buff-necked Ibis, Black Vulture, Turkey Vulture, Swallow-tailed Kite, Roadside Hawk, Long-tufted Screech Owl, Surucua Trogon, White-eared Puffbird, Green-billed Toucan, Mottled Piculet, White-spotted Woodpecker, Yellow-browed Woodpecker, Campo Flicker, Red-legged Seriema, Crested Caracara, Yellow-headed Caracara, Chimango Caracara, American Kestrel, Monk Parakeet, Pileated Parrot, Maroon-bellied Parakeet, Rufous-capped Antshrike, Dusky-tailed Antbird, Speckle-breasted Antpitta, Planalto Tapaculo, Mouse-colored Tapaculo, Rufous-tailed Antthrush, Olivaceous Woodcreeper, Planalto Woodcreeper, Scalloped Woodcreeper, Long-tailed Cinclodes, Striolated Tit-Spinetail, Araucaria Tit-Spinetail, Freckle-breasted Thornbird, Firewood-gatherer, Olive Spinetail, Grey-bellied Spinetail, Spix's Spinetail, Serra do Mar Tyrannulet, Southern Beardless Tyrannulet, Small-billed Elaenia, White-crested Tyrannulet, Greenish Tyrannulet, Planalto Tyrannulet, Euler's Flycatcher, Blue-billed Black Tyrant, Yellow-browed Tyrant, Grey Monjita, Black-and-white Monjita, Swainson's Flycatcher, Cattle Tyrant, Great Kiskadee, Variegated Flycatcher, Tropical Kingbird, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Chivi Vireo, Azure Jay, Blue-and-white Swallow, Grey-breasted Martin, White-rumped Swallow, House Wren, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Rufous-bellied Thrush, Hellmayr's Pipit, Hooded Siskin, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Golden-winged Cacique, Shiny Cowbird, Chopi Blackbird, Yellow-rumped Marshbird, Southern Yellowthroat, Tropical Parula, White-rimmed Warbler, Grey-throated Warbling Finch, Diademed Tanager, Blue-and-yellow Tanager, Sayaca Tanager, Chestnut-backed Tanager, Long-tailed Reed Finch, Black-and-rufous Warbling Finch, Saffron Finch, Grassland Yellow Finch, Lesser Grass Finch, Pampa Finch, Black-bellied Seedeater, Double-collared Seedeater, Green-winged Saltator, Thick-billed Saltator, 

Brazil; Rio Grande do Sul & Santa Catarina - Day 1

  With Christmas out of the way, Lia and I decided to travel again, having not been on a real trip since I arrived in Brazil, the others both being related to Lias work. Our chosen destination was the south of Brazil; Santa Catarina and especially Rio Grande do Sul. These states encompass the more southern reach of the Atlantic Forest and its transition in Pampas. It is also the wealthiest region in Brazil, with good infrastructure and standard of living, at least compared to the rest of the country.

  We arrived in Porto Alegre, the capital of Rio Grande do Sul, the previous evening, picked up our car and then headed to a hotel. Our destination for the morning was the city's Botanical Garden before we set off on a six-hour drive north to our first real stop. The botanical garden has a few common species, but notable is Scaled Chacalaca, a species with a limited distribution that we wouldn’t encounter elsewhere on our trip. In the two hours we search we didn’t find the bird, but the weather was cold and rainy. There were some nice birds though, especially very habituated Slaty-breasted Wood Rail. The small lake in the park was filled with turtles; both Hilaire’s Side-necked Turtle and Pond Slider. Monk Parakeet was also a new species for my Brazil list.

  At 11:00 we headed north. The drive was long and with limited stops, but a small marsh we visited did produce our first lifer of the trip Black-and-rufous Warbling Finch. The wind kept them low in the vegetation and they were difficult to see. There were also two Brown Hares chasing each other around the adjacent fields and Chimango Caracara was another new bird for my Brazil list.

  Our destination was the small town of Urupema, in the state of Santa Catarina, surrounded by stunning Araucaria forest. Our lodge was set up especially for birders, with small chalets and a brilliant feeding station. Once we arrived at 18:30 we had around half an hours’ worth of light to explore and made the most of it with Chestnut-backed Tanagers visiting the feeder, our first new bird here, plus Araucaria Tit-Spinetail common and Long-tailed Cincloides nesting in the roof. The proprietor was extremely friendly, and his optimism and excitement about the birds left us extremely excited for what the following days will bring. 

  In the evening we searched a small marsh across the road for night birds, and were rewarded with a pair of very confiding Scissor-tailed Nightjars. Night birding would be a strong feature of our stay here, as there were a few species on our hit list!

Species List:
Jardim Botânico de Porto Alegre: Picazuro Pigeon, White-tipped Dove, Eared Dove, Sick's Swift, Grey-cowled Wood Rail, Slaty-breasted Wood Rail, Striated Heron, Bare-faced Ibis, Black Vulture, Roadside Hawk, Green-barred Woodpecker, Monk Parakeet, Yellow-chevroned Parakeet, Rufous Hornero, Spix's Spinetail, Southern Beardless Tyrannulet, Small-billed Elaenia, Great Kiskadee, Boat-billed Flycatcher, Streaked Flycatcher, Tropical Kingbird, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Blue-and-white Swallow, House Wren, Pale-breasted Thrush, Rufous-bellied Thrush, Purple-throated Euphonia, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Shiny Cowbird, Tropical Parula, Golden-crowned Warbler, Red-crested Cardinal, Sayaca Tanager, Bananaquit,
Urupema: Sick's Swift, White-throated Hummingbird, Whistling Heron, Buff-necked Ibis, Turkey Vulture, Swallow-tailed Kite, Chimango Caracara, Maroon-bellied Parakeet, Long-tailed Cinclodes, Araucaria Tit-Spinetail, Tropical Kingbird, Blue-and-white Swallow, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Blue-and-yellow Tanager, Sayaca Tanager, Chestnut-backed Tanager, Saffron Finch, 

Brazil; Alagoas - ESEC Murici week 2; 22nd - 28th

  The second week, while it still had some long days in the field, was generally more relaxed. Once we had searched all the areas of the forest there was much less work to be done, since avoiding excess disturbance to these areas was the most important aspect of the work. We still made the long trip to the furthest reaches of the forest on one of our last day, but other than that there was more time to be spent relaxing.

  In these free afternoons I continued going to the border where I eventually managed to get photos of the swifts that had been bothering me. The photos showed that they were clearly Band-rumped Swift, which Herminio informed us was suspect to be in the area but had not been documented for around 30 years. Other birds the border produced included Black Hawk Eagle, Mantled Hawk and Plumbeous Kite, as well as an assortment of commoner species that you can find in border habitats; Southern White-fringed Antwren, Black-capped Antwren and White-lined Tanager.

  In terms of rarer species there were a few notable sightings this week, including a lifer for me in the unspectacular form of Forest Elaenia, which was very vocal but only showed distantly at the bottom of one of the river valleys. Big thanks to Lia who heard the bird calling, before we were able to use playback to bring the bird in closer. There were also appearances from Scaled Antbird and White-necked Thrush, both of which are uncommon in the forest. The Lesser Swallow-tailed Swifts also continued to put in an appearance most evenings, keeping things lively for the rarer species in the forest. We also visited the lek of Margaretta's Great-billed Hermit on the 24th, where there were still three males, as there had been back in February.

  There were just three new nests for me this week; another Black Jacobin, a Blue-backed Manakin that was already abandoned and then a spectacular Ruddy Quail Dove. Previously I have only seen the dove on two occasions, so to stumble across an adult sat on a nest with two chicks was incredible. Sadly I didn’t have my camera so photos were only on my phone. The Dove nest had a camera installed on it, so hopefully we will get to see how the chicks progress and if they are successful. 

  And finally to wrap up, we continued to have no luck with mammals, just a couple of bat species and a possum were all we could manage. However, we continued our good streak with snakes, managing to see both Green Jararaca and the endemic and very rare Murici Lancehead, the latter of which we found two together sitting by the side of a river at night. The river in question is the nicknamed river of endemics due to the presence of frog species, some of which are found nowhere else. We made a visit on our last night and found most of them, although all the ones we had seen before. The only new frogs for us on this trip were the Mata Do Catolé Heart-tongued Frog and the Bananeiras Heart-tongued Frog both of which we found delightfully living in Bromeliads, which we had failed to find last time.

  And that wraps up our time here in Murici. The forest was good to us once again and we enjoyed working here. Fingers crossed we will have the chance to return again in the future. 

-Band-rumped Swift

-Forest Elaenia

-Pernambuco Foliage-Gleaner

-Greyish Mourner

-Screaming Piha

-Black Jacobin

-Pauraque

-Mantled Hawk

-Plumbeous Kite

-Rufous-Thighed Kite

-Margaretta's Great-billed Hermit

-Mata Do Catolé Heart-tongued Frog

-Mata da Bananeira Snouted Tree Frog

-Frei Caneca Tree Frog

-Subaúma Canebrake Tree Frog

-Green Jaracara

-Murici Lancehead

Species List:
ESEC Murici: Red-winged Tinamou, Scaled Pigeon, Ruddy Ground Dove, Ruddy Quail-Dove, White-tipped Dove, Grey-fronted Dove, Smooth-billed Ani, Squirrel Cuckoo, Short-tailed Nighthawk, Pauraque, Rufous Nightjar, Band-rumped Swift, Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift, Black Jacobin, Great-billed Hermit, Reddish Hermit, Planalto Hermit, Black-eared Fairy, Long-tailed Woodnymph, White-chinned Sapphire, Southern Lapwing, Black Vulture, Turkey Vulture, Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture, Black Hawk-Eagle, Rufous-thighed Kite, Plumbeous Kite, Roadside Hawk, Mantled Hawk, Short-tailed Hawk, Zone-tailed Hawk, Black-throated Trogon, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Black-necked Aracari, Channel-billed Toucan, Golden-spangled Piculet, Red-stained Woodpecker, Yellow-throated Woodpecker, Collared Forest Falcon, Crested Caracara, Yellow-headed Caracara, Blue-headed Parrot, Red-shouldered Macaw, White-shouldered Antshrike, Plain Antvireo, Silvery-flanked Antwren, Black-capped Antwren, Rusty-winged Antwren, Southern White-fringed Antwren, Scaled Antbird, Orange-bellied Antwren, East Amazonian Fire-eye, Scalloped Antbird, Black-cheeked Gnateater, Olivaceous Woodcreeper, Plain-winged Woodcreeper, Amazonian Barred Woodcreeper, Ceara Woodcreeper, Plain Xenops, Pernambuco Foliage-gleaner, Blue-backed Manakin, White-bearded Manakin, Red-headed Manakin, Screaming Piha, White-winged Cotinga, Brown-winged Schiffornis, Buff-throated Purpletuft, White-throated Spadebill, Sepia-capped Flycatcher, White-bellied Tody-Tyrant, Olivaceous Flatbill, Ochre-lored Flatbill, Forest Elaenia, Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Euler's Flycatcher, Bright-rumped Attila, Greyish Mourner, Short-crested Flycatcher, Great Kiskadee, Tropical Kingbird, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Chivi Vireo, Southern Rough-winged Swallow, Trilling Gnatwren, Tropical Gnatcatcher, Moustached Wren, Pale-breasted Thrush, White-necked Thrush, Yellowish Pipit, Violaceous Euphonia, Grassland Sparrow, Yellow-green Grosbeak, Flame-crested Tanager, Palm Tanager, Burnished-buff Tanager, Seven-colored Tanager, Red-necked Tanager, Blue Dacnis, Red-legged Honeycreeper, Green Honeycreeper, Yellow-backed Tanager, Saffron Finch, Wedge-tailed Grass Finch, Blue-black Grassquit, Bananaquit, Buff-throated Saltator, 

Brazil; Alagoas - ESEC Murici week 1; 14th - 21st

  The first week in the forest of Murici was certainly the most challenging, as we searched all the areas for new nests and territories of the birds we were looking for. But it was also very rewarding as even I managed to find some nests, including two nests of Black Jacobin and a nest of Long-billed Gnatwren. Sadly, while the Jacobins both continued with their eggs, the Gnatwrens were predated within 48 hours of their discovery.

  The privilege of working in this reserve is that while most visitors are restricted to the main trail, our work took us deep into the forest, especially focusing our work on the deep river valleys that are otherwise inaccessible. It was in one of these ravines that we found our first and only Black-tailed Leaftosser of the week, when one showed incredibly well on the 19^th. Other species which are rare in the forest but we encountered a few times included Todd’s Amazonian Woodcreeper, which we saw on three different occasions, White-winged Cotinga which we saw twice and Rufous-thighed Kite, which surprisingly had a nest not too far from where we were staying.

  During this first week we were kept very busy surveying areas, but on a few occasions we had time to visit the forest border at the end of the day to scan for raptors. And it was during these initial periods that my attention was drawn to the Swifts flying over the forest. On a previous visit I had recorded the first WikiAves registrations of Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift, and these continued to be present now as well, but distant Chaetura swifts certainly had my interest, although it would be another week before I was able to identify them. It was also at the forest border that on the 21^st we found a brilliant Rufous Nightjar showing.

  Of course, ESEC Murici is famous for its critically endangered species, and while I cannot reveal too much about its key target, some of the others were a bit showier. It took us all of 11 days last time to see the endemic, soon-to-be split, Black-throated Trogon but we managed to see one after just three days on this occasion. The screech owl did not put in any performances at all, which was frustrating.

  In contrast to last time, there was much less action from other forest residents as well. We saw no mammals, very much the same assortment of frogs and only a few reptiles. Snakes were certainly an improvement with two in the first two days; Lichtenstein's Green Racer on the 14^th and then a Xenodon sp. on the 15^th. But the highlight was on the 20^th when I stumbled across a stunning Aesculapian False Coral Snake. It sat for a few minutes before it slithered off into the leaflitter. Given we only saw a single Boa Constrictor last time, we were already ahead in the snake stakes. 

-Black-cheeked Gnateater

-Amazonian Barred Woodcreeper

-Alagoas Black-throated Trogon

-Rufous-thighed Kite

-Silvery-flanked Antwren

-White-lined Tanager

-Southern White-fringed Antwren

-Rufous Nightjar

-White-winged Cotinga

-Black-tailed Leaftosser

-Scalloped Antbird

-Reddish Hermit

-Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift

-Vampyressa pusilla

-Dryadosaura nordestina

-Lichtenstein's Green Racer

-Aesculapian False Coral Snake

-Elegant Forest Tree Frog

-Renal Smooth-horned Frog

-Tropidacris cristata

-Moth

Species List:

ESEC Murici: Solitary Tinamou, Scaled Pigeon, Ruddy Ground Dove, Ruddy Quail-Dove, White-tipped Dove, Grey-fronted Dove, Smooth-billed Ani, Squirrel Cuckoo, Short-tailed Nighthawk, Pauraque, Rufous Nightjar, Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift, Black Jacobin, Rufous-breasted Hermit, Reddish Hermit, Planalto Hermit, Long-tailed Woodnymph, White-chinned Sapphire, Southern Lapwing, Black Vulture, Turkey Vulture, Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture, Black Hawk-Eagle, Rufous-thighed Kite, Plumbeous Kite, Roadside Hawk, Mantled Hawk, Short-tailed Hawk, Zone-tailed Hawk, Mottled Owl, Black-throated Trogon, Black-necked Aracari, Channel-billed Toucan, Golden-spangled Piculet, Red-stained Woodpecker, Yellow-throated Woodpecker, Collared Forest Falcon, Crested Caracara, Yellow-headed Caracara, Blue-headed Parrot, Red-shouldered Macaw, White-shouldered Antshrike, Plain Antvireo, Silvery-flanked Antwren, Alagoas Antwren, Rusty-winged Antwren, Southern White-fringed Antwren, Scaled Antbird, Orange-bellied Antwren, East Amazonian Fire-eye, Scalloped Antbird, Black-cheeked Gnateater, Black-tailed Leaftosser, Amazonian Barred Woodcreeper, Ceara Woodcreeper, Plain Xenops, Pernambuco Foliage-gleaner, Blue-backed Manakin, White-bearded Manakin, Red-headed Manakin, Screaming Piha, White-winged Cotinga, Brown-winged Schiffornis, Buff-throated Purpletuft, White-throated Spadebill, Sepia-capped Flycatcher, White-bellied Tody-Tyrant, Olivaceous Flatbill, Ochre-lored Flatbill, Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Euler's Flycatcher, Bright-rumped Attila, Greyish Mourner, Short-crested Flycatcher, Great Kiskadee, Tropical Kingbird, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Chivi Vireo, Southern Rough-winged Swallow, Trilling Gnatwren, Tropical Gnatcatcher, Moustached Wren, Pale-breasted Thrush, Yellowish Pipit, Violaceous Euphonia, Grassland Sparrow, Red-crowned Ant Tanager, Yellow-green Grosbeak, Flame-crested Tanager, White-lined Tanager, Palm Tanager, Burnished-buff Tanager, Seven-colored Tanager, Red-necked Tanager, Blue Dacnis, Red-legged Honeycreeper, Green Honeycreeper, Yellow-backed Tanager, Wedge-tailed Grass Finch, Blue-black Grassquit, Bananaquit, Buff-throated Saltator,