Thursday, 12 October 2023

Madagascar; Day 7 - Ranomafana NP

  We began our second day full of excitement and ready to once again get into the forest and wrap up our remaining targets. This time we were not with a bird guide, but one of the park's regular guides and it showed. Sadly the kid was just a bit slow! What this did mean though, was that we ended up doing a lot of the searching and finding ourselves, at least with some species. With others, we searched the areas where we had searched and failed the previous day.

  We had a fantastic morning, which seemed much more lively than it had the previous day. We found almost all of our remaining targets fairly easily, starting with a very nice Pollen’s Vanga, followed by the nondescript Cryptic Warbler, and finally the very elusive Brown Emutail. Many of the species we recorded the previous day also made a reappearance, including Madagascar Flufftail and a few of the other Vanga species. One non-target that also made an appearance was the White-throated Oxybales, a species we would likely encounter later, but were pleased to see now.

  The absolute highlight of the morning, and one of the highlights of the trip so far, was the Crossley’s Vanga. We heard the high-pitched whistle of a bird nearby, so played a tape to try and lure him out. Next thing we knew he appeared in the thick vegetation right at our feet, before walking across the path where he continued to sing and show incredibly well at close quarters. This would have been more than enough, but then, on our way back, we found another pair, where the male was equally confiding. It was absolutely phenomenal, and it’s a fantastic-looking bird as well, almost reminiscent of a miniature Rail-Babbler.

  Because our guide was a little useless, we decided to let him go at lunchtime at half rate, before we would walk the road in the afternoon. But we met Emilie again who took offered to guide us for a night walk again. And this night walk produced one of the best mammal encounters I have ever had with absolutely insane views of Fanaloka, or Malagasy Striped Civet, coming extremely close to feed around us. This secretive animal is extremely hard to see, and we were unbelievably lucky to get the views that we did. 

-Crossley's Vanga
-Madagascar Cuckoo
-White-headed Vanga
-Rufous Vanga
-Pollen's Vanga
-Madagascar Blue Vanga
-Hook-billed Vanga
-Cryptic Warbler
-Ward's Flycatcher
-Brown Emutail
-Common Newtonia
-Milne-Edwards' Sifaka
-Fanaloka
-Pandanus Frog
-O'Shaughnessy's Chameleon

Species List:
Ranomafana National Park: Malagasy Turtle Dove, Madagascar Blue Pigeon, Blue Coua, Red-fronted Coua, Malagasy Coucal, Madagascar Cuckoo, Malagasy Palm Swift, Madagascar Forest Rail, Madagascar Flufftail, Common Sandpiper, Yellow-billed Kite, Madagascar Buzzard, Cuckoo-roller, Pitta-like Ground Roller, Rufous-headed Ground Roller, Madagascar Cuckooshrike, Common Newtonia, Tylas Vanga, Red-tailed Vanga, Crossley's Vanga, Madagascar Blue Vanga, Hook-billed Vanga, Ward's Flycatcher, Rufous Vanga, White-headed Vanga, Pollen's Vanga, Crested Drongo, Malagasy Paradise Flycatcher, Common Jery, Green Jery, Malagasy Brush Warbler, Brown Emutail, White-throated Oxylabes, Long-billed Bernieria, Cryptic Warbler, Madagascar Yellowbrow, Spectacled Tetraka, Rand's Warbler, Mascarene Martin, Malagasy Bulbul, Malagasy White-eye, Madagascar Magpie-Robin, Souimanga Sunbird, Malagasy Green Sunbird, Nelicourvi Weaver, Madagascar Wagtail, 

Wednesday, 11 October 2023

Madagascar; Day 6 - Ranomafana NP

  Today would be our first day in Ranomafana National Park, and it would be an intense day as we tried to track down as many of the rare forest species found here as we could. Thanks to Anya, our driver, once again we were able to arrange Samantha, a guide who was a specialist in the birds of the park, and with her help, we were able to make good progress through our species list. 

  We started by birding the Vohipara trail, the trail furthest from our lodging. We arrived just after first light and immediately began searching along the road. Of course, it being our first visit to the eastern rainforests, many of the common species were new for us, such as Malagasy Sunbird, Forest Fody and Malagasy White-Eye. Once we entered the forest itself the birding became more difficult, with the activity obscured by the vegetation. That said, we still had a brilliant pair of Madagascar Wood Rail walking on the path in front of us. As we ascended we started to pick up a few other bits and pieces, such as Nelicouri Weaver, Red-tailed Vanga and Madagascar Blue Vanga. 

We had to reach the furthest and highest part of the trail here to find some of the more difficult species on offer in the park. Thanks to Samantha, we managed to notch off our first target with the very elusive Madagascar Yellowbrow. We also had brief views of Madagascar Flufftail as it scurried across the path in front of us in response to playback. A stunning Red-fronted Coua was one of the morning's highlights. Perched up motionless in the understorey, we were able to get fantastic views as it sat there calling away.

  After lunch at the park headquarters, we explored the trail around the headquarters of the park. This trail was less lively until later in the afternoon, but again, we made steady progress on our targets with a very showy but nondescript Rand’s Warbler. We did however have absolutely fantastic views of Madagascar Flufftail here, with an individual singing almost in the open, before running across an area of open path and into thick cover.

  Of course there were only two birds that could really qualify themselves as highlights, and those were the two species of Ground Roller that we managed to see here. The first was Pitta-like Ground Roller, and in the morning we managed to find a pair that generally stuck deep in the cover, but on one occasion burst out into the open to call, offering unbelievable views of what was my most wanted species before the trip began. However, in the afternoon things really kicked off, with no less than four individuals seen and one individual that ran out into the middle of the path and sat there for a good thirty seconds before diving back into cover. The views were got were better than anything I could have hoped for with this truly stunning bird. Absolutely incredible. 

  The other Ground Roller is the Rufous-headed Ground Roller. This one is much rarer and was a key species to target here in the park. We eventually found one right at the end of the trail, and boy did it show well. It would sit out in the open for extended periods and call away, before diving back into cover and scurrying through the vegetation. Even after we had taken our walk-away views and left the bird in peace, it kept following us and on two other occasions, as we tried to find other birds, we spotted it walking along the ground. It was a very special encounter of an absolutely fabulous bird. 

  And it was not just the birds here at the park. During the morning, once the birding had died down, we had time to check out the other bits and pieces on offer. In total today we managed to see an incredible five different species of Lemur. It started with a Milne-Edwards' Sifaka on the road, distant in the forest, and we saw another of these higher up in the forest, although this individual was carrying a radio-collar, so was less exciting. Next we had a family of Red-bellied Lemur, the same as we had seen the previous afternoon. Perhaps the most exciting was a Small-toothed Sportive Lemur which was peeking out of its hole whilst it waited for darkness to come out and feed. Then in the afternoon, we had fantastic views of Golden Bamboo Lemur and brief views of Red-fronted Brown Lemur. Absolutely incredible.

  And then, it has to be said, it wasn’t just the mammals. The guides also showed us a very range-restricted and incredibly beautiful Baron's Mantella frog, which was truly superb to look at. There were a few other species of frogs as well, and more views of the Peacock Day Gecko that we had seen the previous day. Rounding off our daytime activities, we got to see multiple individuals of the crazy looking Giraffe Weevil, with a few males and a female.

  But then there was the night activity. We went out with local legend Emile, the husband of Samantha who had guided us during the day. We managed to find all sorts of bits in the hour that we were out, the best of which were the insanely cute Rufous Mouse Lemur and Dwarf Lemur sp. This brought our lemur total for the national park up to an absolutely insane seven different species. Then there were the chameleons, with every other tree seeming to have one sleeping. In total we were able to identify four different species, but we could well have overlooked others. It was truly a fantastic venture and well worth the additional hour in the field.

-Pitta-like Ground Roller
-Rufous-headed Ground Roller
-Madagascar Forest Rail
-Red-fronted Coua
-Madagascar Flufftail
-Common Sunbird-Asity
-Velvet Asity
-Nelicourvi Weaver
-Rand's Warbler
-Green Jery
-Madagascar Yellowbrow
-Chabert Vanga
-Golden Bamboo Lemur
-Small-toothed Sportive Lemur
-Red-bellied Lemur
-Rufous Mouse Lemur
-Dwarf Lemur sp.
-Peacock Day Gecko
-O'Shaughnessy's Chameleon
-Glaw's Chameleon
-Cryptic Chameleon
-Baron's Mantella
-Pandanus Frog
-Giraffe Weevil

Species List:
Ranomafana National Park: Malagasy Turtle Dove, Blue Coua, Red-fronted Coua, Malagasy Coucal, Madagascar Cuckoo, Alpine Swift, Madagascar Forest Rail, Madagascar Flufftail, Common Sandpiper, Madagascar Buttonquail, Madagascar Buzzard, Cuckoo-roller, Pitta-like Ground Roller, Rufous-headed Ground Roller, Malagasy Kestrel, Velvet Asity, Common Sunbird-Asity, Madagascar Cuckooshrike, Common Newtonia, Tylas Vanga, Red-tailed Vanga, Chabert Vanga, Madagascar Blue Vanga, Crested Drongo, Malagasy Paradise Flycatcher, Green Jery, Stripe-throated Jery, Malagasy Brush Warbler, Long-billed Bernieria, Madagascar Yellowbrow, Spectacled Tetraka, Rand's Warbler, Malagasy Bulbul, Malagasy White-eye, Madagascar Magpie-Robin, Souimanga Sunbird, Malagasy Green Sunbird, Nelicourvi Weaver, Forest Fody, Madagascar Wagtail, 

Tuesday, 10 October 2023

Madagascar; Day 5 - Anya Community Reserve

  Today involved a lot of driving, as we moved from Isalo towards Ranomafana, one of the most famous of all Madagascars national parks, due to its extensive intact rainforest tracts. Before then though we had to cover eight hours of driving and a short stop at another reserve on the way. As we set off we quickly checked an area of grassland just outside Isalo National Park to search for Madagascar Partridge, but we failed to find any. 

  We left Isalo at around 06:30 and arrived at our next stop, the Anya community reserve, at around 10:15. This reserve is a small patch of forest around a large inselberg, which is famous for its large population of Ring-tailed Lemurs. The reserve was founded to protect the lemurs from poaching and since then population has exploded. We had brilliant views of many individuals, with at least four different babies. Families were abundant perched atop trees, but also feeding on the ground. They were grooming each other, with babies playing at extremely close quarters. While it did feel a little artificial, there is no denying that seeing wild animals at such close quarters is a very special experience.

  Also at the reserve we had a few more Chameleons, all Oustalet's Giant Chameleon. The guides we were with even fed one of the larger Chameleons a large insect, so we could watch it shoot out its tongue. Absolutely brilliant to see! There were also our first frogs of our time in Madagascar, but as we move into the wetter habitats it will be the first of many. Bird-wise however it was generally quite quiet, and we saw very little. We eventually left the reserve at 11:30, and after a short lunch we continued on our way.

  We reached the borders of the Ranomafana National Park at around 16:00 and almost immediately spotted a few new birds from the drive. We had a few Madagascar Wagtails on the sides of the road, and a Madagascar Cuckooshrike dropped out of the canopy and flew alongside us for a short while. We pulled over and got a few more views, but it quickly vanished into the trees. But this stop was fortunate as in the trees next to the road we found a small group of Red-bellied Lemur. They were very annoyed at our presence calling aggressively, but providing us with brilliant views of them.

  After that short stop we moved onto our hotel in the town of Ranomafana itself, where we were shown yet another Chameleon in the garden, our first Parsons Chameleon. We settled down to have a beer and a chat with our guide for the next day in the evening, preparing ourselves for one of the most important sites on our itinerary. 

-Malagasy Palm Swift
-Ring-tailed Lemur
-Oustalet's Giant Chameleon
-Oustalet's Giant Chameleon
-Oustalet's Giant Chameleon
-Red-bellied Lemur

-Parsons Chameleon

Species List:
Anja Community Reserve: Malagasy Coucal, Yellow-billed Kite, Madagascar Hoopoe, Olive Bee-eater, Malagasy Kestrel, Pied Crow, Common Jery,