Peru Day 8; Laguna Pomacocha & Satipo Road

 This was our final day in the high Altiplano for some time, as today we would endure the long Satipo road down the east slope into the lowlands of the Andean foothills. Fortunately, we had already seen many of the species we had hoped to find on the way, which meant a day with substantial driving but few target birds, at least until we reached the lowlands in the afternoon.

The road did pass through some stunning scenery, especially early morning when a thick frost had set across the mountains. About an hour into the drive we passed the partly frozen Laguna Pomacocha, stunning in the morning light. We found a few commoner species here, including Ochre-naped Ground-Tyrant and Chilean Flamingo, but perhaps the highlight was an Andean Negrito, running around on one of the smaller frozen lakes.

After two and a half hours driving we finally arrived in the area were we might find our only outstanding target, the rare and local Eye-ringed Thistletail. But as soon as we pulled up, we had two of these Thistletails in the bushes directly below us, showing well. Having managed to clean up in five minutes we spent the next 15 minutes birding along the road. I concentrated on finding another Jalca Tapaculo, and quickly found a bird calling, although not showing. Not to worry however, as just down the road there was another individual who did decide to show well, incredibly well at one point, perched out over the cliff. It was a fantastic Tapaculo encounter, with brilliant views and photos managed.

The rest of the drive, all two and a half hours of it, passed without much incident. We did manage to tick off Andean Ibis feeding in high-altitude pastureland. Towards the end of the road it began to descend into more forested habitat. We managed to add a couple more Jalca Tapaculos, including one that showed deep inside the bamboo. However, in the edge habitat between the woodland and the altiplano, we found very little.

After finding a ‘hostal’ in the town of Calabeza, we set off out into the nearby forest. The term hostal was generous, as it was actually just four beds in what would barely pass as a garden shed. Still it was our only option and we are not fussy, so for its location alone, would suffice. The forest was extremely productive for the hour and a half we were able to bird there. There was just a single new bird for me with Dusky-green Oropendula, but the flocks of tanagers were absolutely fantastic with Flame-faced, Saffron Cowled and Blue-capped all being common. There was also Capped Conebill, Black-eared Hemispingus and Citrine Warbler. An Andean Guan was also a nice bonus roosting at the end of the afternoon, and a pair of Chestnut-breasted Coronet. It was our first experience of Andean forest birding on this trip, and it did not disappoint. 

-Chilean Flamingo

-Ochre-naped Ground Tyrant

-Crested Duck

-Torrent Duck

-Jalca Tapaculo

-Eye-ringed Thistletail

-Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant

-Andean Ibis

-Puna Ibis

-Plum-crowned Parrot

-Andean Guan

Species List:
Laguna Pomacocha: Andean Goose, Crested Duck, Yellow-billed Teal, Andean Duck, Chilean Flamingo, Silvery Grebe, Andean Lapwing, Andean Gull, Mountain Caracara, Common Miner, Andean Negrito, Ochre-naped Ground Tyrant,
Upper Satipo Road: Andean Goose, Torrent Duck, Andean Lapwing, Puna Ibis, Andean Ibis, Mountain Caracara, Jalca Tapaculo, Eye-ringed Thistletail, Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant, Black-throated Flowerpiercer, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Peruvian Sierra Finch,
Calabaza: Andean Guan, Speckled Hummingbird, Long-tailed Sylph, Collared Inca, Chestnut-breasted Coronet, Roadside Hawk, Plum-crowned Parrot, Montane Woodcreeper, Barred Becard, Cinnamon Flycatcher, Tufted Tit-Tyrant, Sierran Elaenia, Black Phoebe, Rufous-tailed Tyrant, Streak-throated Bush Tyrant, Blue-and-white Swallow, House Wren, Great Thrush, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Tricolored Brushfinch, Dusky-green Oropendola, Citrine Warbler, Spectacled Whitestart, Black-eared Hemispingus, Superciliaried Hemispingus, Blue-capped Tanager, Buff-breasted Mountain Tanager, Blue-grey Tanager, Blue-and-black Tanager, Saffron-crowned Tanager, Flame-faced Tanager, Capped Conebill, Masked Flowerpiercer, 

Peru Day 7; Pariahuanca Road

  We made the decision the previous day to spend the full day on the Pariahuanca Road, a long road passing through altiplano and upland scrub and Polyepis woodland, which is home to a few interesting species. This would then see us return to our original lodging in the town of Conception, come the evening. The plan seemed simple enough, get all the endemic birds about 65 kilometers down the road, before returning to the Altiplano in the afternoon to hopefully pick up a few bonus species.

  But best-laid plans and all that. As it happened, there had been a landslide 14 kilometres from our destination, but we did not know until we arrived at the scene to find workmen clearing the road, and informing us that it would not open again until midday. This meant that we had no choice but to make the most of the situation and bird the area around the closure. Fortunately, there was some good woodland, and as the morning warmed up were rewarded with a number of good and interesting species.

  Initially, we focused on the road, where we found our first endemic to the region with Black-spectacled Brushfinch, with a pair showing nicely. But frustratingly it was the only endemic we were able to find here. A nest of Red-crested Cotinga with a chick was a surprise, and the flocks on the road yielded a Moustached Flowerpiercer for me.

  It wasn’t until we explored the area above the road that we really began to hit our stride. First I managed brief views of Violet-throated Starfrontlet, among the many Fire-throated Metaltails, both of which were new for me and both uncommon throughout their range. But things really hit their stride when we first encountered a Jalca Tapaculo showing well, followed by a Stripe-headed Antpitta. The Tapaculo responded well to playback, even sitting out in the open among the rocks, and it was while we were watching that the Antpitta appeared in the same area. The antpitta then proceeded to climb a tree to sing, and continued to show exceptionally well for the rest of the time we watched it.

  At midday the road opened and we were finally able to reach our destination. The warm afternoon meant birding was slow, but we did manage frustrating views of the as-yet undescribed ‘Mantaro Thornbird’, the only other species present being Sierran Elaenia. We then had a little more success trying for the as-yet undescribed ‘Mantaro Wren’ which actually showed well and gave us nice views and vocal performance. A Yungas Pygmy Owl rounded off the afternoon.

  It was already late afternoon when we left this site, leaving us with a three-hour drive back to our lodging. This meant that we had to miss out our planned exploration of the Altiplano. We had managed about twenty minutes exploring in the morning, but the sun had barely risen and the thick frost meant activity was low. Still, we had nice views of Glacier Finch and Olivaceous Thornbill, against a stunning Andean backdrop. Just a shame we could not explore more in the afternoon, as we had originally planned. 

-Stripe-headed Antpitta

-Jalca Tapaculo

-Creamy-crested Spinetail

-Mantaro Wren (undescribed form)

-Streak-throated Canastero

-Cream-winged Cinclodes

-Black-spectacled Brushfinch

-White-throated Tyrannulet

Species List:
Pariahuanca Road: Ornate Tinamou, Andean Goose, Torrent Duck, Feral Pigeon, Band-tailed Pigeon, Sparkling Violetear, Olivaceous Thornbill, Fiery-throated Metaltail, Shining Sunbeam, Violet-throated Starfrontlet, Andean Lapwing, Puna Ibis, Yungas Pygmy Owl, Andean Flicker, Stripe-headed Antpitta, Jalca Tapaculo, Cream-winged Cinclodes, Mantaro Thornbird (undescribed form), Streak-throated Canastero, Creamy-crested Spinetail, Red-crested Cotinga, White-throated Tyrannulet, Tufted Tit-Tyrant, Sierran Elaenia, Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant, Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant, House Wren, Mountain Wren, Mantaro Wren (undescribed form), Great Thrush, Black-spectacled Brushfinch, Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanager, Blue-and-black Tanager, Cinereous Conebill, Moustached Flowerpiercer, Black-throated Flowerpiercer, Masked Flowerpiercer, Glacier Finch, Plumbeous Sierra Finch,

Peru Day 6; Carhuapaccha

  Today was a much more relaxed day, having decided to spend the morning searching for a few bits around our lodging, before spending the afternoon catching up on the itinerary and what our plans were for the following days.

  Our chosen site for the morning was a dry Andean valley to the southwest of the town of Huancayo. This was a site that we had identified as having a good chance to find the western population of the stunning Bearded Mountaineer hummingbird. We had hoped that it would be easy to find but it proved difficult, with it taking a good few hours before we finally spotted a bird in flight. Shortly after we saw the same bird feeding on the side of the road, before half an hour later we found another further down the road, but this individual also did not perch up at all. 

  In terms of other birds, the best of the rest occurred right at the end of the morning when we had a flock of around 50 Andean Parakeets feeding in the trees near the road. This was a species we hoped to find, but was absolutely not guaranteed, so a big bonus species. I also had lifers with a brilliant performance from a pair of Creamy-crested Spinetail, and brief views of Black-throated Flowerpiercer. 

  In total, during the morning, I had just over 30 species, which was a good return for a high Andean valley like this, especially being so dry and almost desert-like conditions. Despite having a ground frost in the morning, it had quickly warmed up and the heat had slowed birding right down by early afternoon. For the rest of the afternoon we organised logistics in order to make better progress over the following days. 

-Bearded Mountaineer

-Andean Parakeet

-Streak-throated Bush Tyrant

-Creamy-crested Spinetail

Species List:
Carhuapaccha: Spot-winged Pigeon, Bare-faced Ground Dove, Eared Dove, Andean Swift, Sparkling Violetear, Green-tailed Trainbearer, Bearded Mountaineer, Giant Hummingbird, Cinereous Harrier, American Kestrel, Andean Parakeet, Streak-backed Tit-Spinetail, Creamy-crested Spinetail, Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant, White-crested Elaenia, White-winged Black Tyrant, Streak-throated Bush Tyrant, White-browed Chat-Tyrant, House Wren, Great Thrush, Chiguanco Thrush, Hooded Siskin, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Scrub Blackbird, Black-backed Grosbeak, Blue-and-yellow Tanager, Cinereous Conebill, Black-throated Flowerpiercer, Rusty Flowerpiercer, Plain-colored Seedeater, Golden-billed Saltator, 

Peru Day 5; Lake Junin

  Today was the only day we had made a reservation at any point during our trip. This was to visit the lake Junin and have a local guide take us out on a boat in order to try and track down the very rare and endangered Junin Grebe. Our initial plan was to arrive the evening prior, but slowed down by birding we could not make it in time and ended up staying in the town of Junin itself. 

  From our lodging in Junin, it was about a half-hour drive to our guide, Ceasar’s, house where we met up at 06:00. Sadly the morning took a slight turn for the worse when we saw that one of our rear tyres had gone flat, but fortunately, it did not take long to change and then we were ready to roll.

  Our first target was to try for the Junin Rail at a spot known to Ceasar at the edge of the lake. While most groups search for this bird in the night, our delayed arrival meant we could only start searching in the morning. But this worked out fantastically well, as we had brilliant views of at least one Junin Rail scurrying around an open cut in the reeds. Ceasar had also put down some corn for the bird, and it did stop to feed in the open, offering absolutely fantastic views of this rare and secretive bird, found only in the margins of this lake. 

  With the rail safely seen, we set off to the boat that would take us out into the lake. In total the boat trip took about 3.5 hours, but we were rewarded with multiple encounters with the Junin Grebe. They did take some effort to separate from the very similar Silvery Grebe that also lives on the lake, and that we encountered multiple times, but by the end of the morning we had it sussed. 

  For the next two hours or so, we cleaned up on multiple outstanding targets in the area. First we had a nice pair of roosting American Barn Owls in a mud-walled barn, followed by a distant Streak-throated Canastero. With Ceasar we then added Dark-winged Miner, Black-breasted Hillstar and finally Junin Canastero. All local and rare species of the high altiplano. 

  We did not miss a single bird during the day, and left around mid-afternoon very satisfied with how things had unfolded. After getting the tyre repaired in Junin, we then drove three hours south to the town of Conception, which would be our base for the next two days.

-Junin Rail

-Junin Grebe

-Barn Owl

-Ornate Tinamou

-Black-breasted Hillstar

-Chilean Flamingo

-Black Siskin

-Junin Canastero

-Andean Negrito

-Andean Tapeiti

Species List:
Lake Junin: Ornate Tinamou, Andean Goose, Crested Duck, Puna Teal, Yellow-billed Teal, Andean Duck, Chilean Flamingo, White-tufted Grebe, Silvery Grebe, Junin Grebe, Black-winged Ground Dove, Black-breasted Hillstar, Plumbeous Rail, Common Gallinule, Giant Coot, Andean Coot, Black Rail, Andean Avocet, Andean Lapwing, Puna Snipe, Andean Gull, Great Egret, Western Cattle Egret, Black-crowned Night Heron, Puna Ibis, Cinereous Harrier, American Barn Owl, Andean Flicker, Mountain Caracara, Aplomado Falcon, Common Miner, Dark-winged Miner, Wren-like Rushbird, Buff-breasted Earthcreeper, Cream-winged Cinclodes, Junin Canastero, Streak-throated Canastero, Many-colored Rush Tyrant, Andean Negrito, Ochre-naped Ground Tyrant, Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant, D'Orbigny's Chat-Tyrant, House Wren, Chiguanco Thrush, Black Siskin, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Peruvian Sierra Finch, Ash-breasted Sierra Finch, Bright-rumped Yellow Finch,